What repairs/adjustments, if any, did your ex-rental makita 6401 need or get?

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From personal experience and what I have read about here, you will need to replace the bar & chain - they provide safety chain only (liabilty reasons), and the bar has probably been abused.

That said, I just bought one and beyond that issue my chain oiler is non-functional. I am in the process of tear-down so not sure what the issue is but a replacement oiler assy (if needed) can be had for $45.

Buy one of these as a project saw and you will not be disappointed since you know going in that you will be working on it to improve it. I am going through mine from the ground up with intent to install the 84cc kit. Mine was tuned rich, virtually no scarring on the piston, cold compression at 180 and it starts 2nd or 3rd pull (including the first tug with choke on).

I guess I got lucky,,, Mine is a little nicked up but the bar is in great shape, rails were tight, had to swap out the safety chain for some LGX!!!! the ony thing I really need to fix is it leaks bar oil and makes a big mess,, I just lay it on the starter recoil when not in use and no more leaks!!!LOLOL I seem to remember I saw there was an upgrade for the oiler tube to fix it have had it going on 4 years and all Ive done is run the pizz,,, out of it,,, I bought it intending to upgrade to 84CC just havent done it yet!!!!
 
I had to dig three pages deep to find this thread.

First thought was 'heck, I've annoyed mods again somehow and they've dropped the thread', but that's an entirely different and pointless story not pertaining to this site.

:msp_laugh:

Thanks everyone for your replies. This place is like sawpedia.

It is Sawpedia!!!!!

I forgot to mention I paid 205.00 for mine
 
If anyone needs a good 6401 P&C I got a good one, that I don't need.

Will,
I think I posted a question some time ago as to why most people were upgrading to the BB or 79cc and the general response was "because i can" not because ..."hey I torched the slug and want to upgrade"..while a small annecdotal accounting, it seems these OEM P/C's from the 6401 hold up pretty well. I'm guessing that was the theme for this thread...not too many repairs other then normal "wear and tear" maintenance stuff so far. yes an oiler is a maintenance item to me.
 
They've run the gamut. Some have been 100% runners, others had pieces missing from the plastic or magnesium, and the one I bought and shipped to another member (who never troubled himself to pay me for the saw) apparently was toast - bad bearings, lots of small parts, oiler, etc..

The upper A/V springs usually need attention, which I suspect derives from the saws being wedged and pulled on by inexperienced sawyers.

I'd gladly buy another one, though. I think the gamble is worth it, especially if a BB kit is in your plans. Hell, might even hit up HD tomorrow at lunch...
 
Why did you take the 64cc top end off Will ? ;)

Oh, I duno, the quest for more power?


Will,
I think I posted a question some time ago as to why most people were upgrading to the BB or 79cc and the general response was "because i can" not because ..."hey I torched the slug and want to upgrade"..while a small annecdotal accounting, it seems these OEM P/C's from the 6401 hold up pretty well. I'm guessing that was the theme for this thread...not too many repairs other then normal "wear and tear" maintenance stuff so far. yes an oiler is a maintenance item to me.

Yep I know, I just thought I'd offer it. They hold up just as well as any other pro saw, and I've seen many pro saws burned up, its just that there are not as many makita 6401's out there, like all the huskies and stihl's. I guess I'll just go out and smash it with a hammer seeing as nobody wants it.
 
I doubt I've got the skills to go right through it and know what to look for, or how test it.


Heres a poormans way to test the carb boot. With saw idleing and the air cleaner cover off. Spray a little bit of carb cleaner on the boot. Make sure the little straw is on the cans nozzle, and try not to spray any in the air filter. Just a very little spray is needed. If the RPM'S go up chances are the boot is letting air through.
 
I doubt I've got the skills to go right through it and know what to look for, or how test it.


Heres a poormans way to test the carb boot. With saw idleing and the air cleaner cover off. Spray a little bit of carb cleaner on the boot. Make sure the little straw is on the cans nozzle, and try not to spray any in the air filter. Just a very little spray is needed. If the RPM'S go up chances are the boot is letting air through.
'
Great idea, thanks very much.
 
I've got a HD saw it needs a few parts. It has a nylon filter, so I probably should get felt. The rubber chain guard and the nylon bumper under the cover is worn.The paint on the bar was worn, but the rails look straight and no wire edges. I held a straight edge against the chain & bar, like I read in an Oregon manual, there's some gap between the bar and chain- if I push on the straight edge hard I can make it contact the bar. I'm not for sure if the bars ok or not. Looks like the clutch bearing is pressed in- is this like the others?
 
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