What size spikes best for my situation?

[miko0618]

so whats the question? spikes are adjustable and use tree spikes. (longer)

how old are you?

a branch union or crotch a couple inches in diameter could hold thousands of pounds before it sheers off. at any rate, you wrap the rope around the trunk and above the limb if you don't trust it.

 

[Zale]

Good luck. I'm done.

 

[KodiakKen]

to the OP

I am a homeowner that has done some work in total removals..I didn't care to spike a tree..it was dead if I knocked it down or someone else did it. The consensus here is that you are injecting a burl every step you take up and down in your tree that you are trying to save. I should clarify. Not just a burl..an injury to the tree that is subject to infection whether it be from bugs or birds or just rot. Have you ever run spikes? they project in and down which would hold water..standing water in a tree makes mold. mold leads to rot. it will leave if nothing more, blemishes in your tree. instead of buying spikes or spurs. buy a big shot to shoot a line high up in the limbs and foot ascenders and make a prusik knot and walk your way up. IF YOU take small steps it isn't much harder than spiking and a lot easier on your upper body if you have someone on the ground to keep you from swinging. But I have to agree with one of the posts here. There is a reason the woodpeckers got into your DEAD CEDAR and the nail hole..that was the first place a bug found an unpainted way into the good wood under it. I have 2 blue spruces in my back yard and both have pecker tracks in a circular pattern all the way up them. lucky for me..they're only for the bugs and I live in sand and the trees are thriving. if not I would spray the trees first for bugs ..let it stand for a year and then figure another option. I am not for someone that has pride and wants to do it themselves. pm me and I will send you a book on the knots you need to climb without spikes. but people here are in the business..maybe a pine tree that you have seen grow so good they don't worry about spike marks..do that in a mature tree and it will leave a void. look at any telephone pole in town..every spike mark from when it was set is still there..the more spike marks the shorter it lasts. oh yeah..I work for the phone company. even in dead treated telephone poles there is a rhyme to the reason. If you can spike..you can rope climb. I would recommend it on a standing tree as much of the people on here would..Burls in finished wood can be pretty but keep that in mind..the only time your see the beauty is when they are made into furniture. I hope this helps

 

[tramp bushler]

Boy oh boy.

Well since you slammed loggers " called them lumber jacks " . And and went into a discourse on tree worship. You must work for the gubmint or your a teacher. You sound confused.

For spurs you want tree gaffs. Get a set of Klien or Buckingham's. And a Weaver Cougar or Buckingham Viking or Puma saddle. A 200 ft.Samson Arbor Plex rope and a Rescue 8 . 4 caribiners. Rock O are an easy favorite of mine. And a 15' wire core flip line. And A Big Shot with 12 oz weight and 200' of throw line.
And last but not least, the book Tree Climbers Companion.

You can use a split tail with a Blake's hitch as long as you don't zip down the tree. But with the rescue 8 doing the friction work if you loosen the Blake's a little it won't overheat.

 

[513yj]

I'd get a Stihl 044 with a 25 inch bar and Stihl RS chain if it was me.

 

[wiguy]

Thank you

Boy oh boy.

Well since you slammed loggers " called them lumber jacks " . And and went into a discourse on tree worship. You must work for the gubmint or your a teacher. You sound confused.

For spurs you want tree gaffs. Get a set of Klien or Buckingham's. And a Weaver Cougar or Buckingham Viking or Puma saddle. A 200 ft.Samson Arbor Plex rope and a Rescue 8 . 4 caribiners. Rock O are an easy favorite of mine. And a 15' wire core flip line. And A Big Shot with 12 oz weight and 200' of throw line.
And last but not least, the book Tree Climbers Companion.

You can use a split tail with a Blake's hitch as long as you don't zip down the tree. But with the rescue 8 doing the friction work if you loosen the Blake's a little it won't overheat.

Thank you so much finally a complete list of things I will need. Not your “crazy” comments! As I say in my original post I am trying to fix wood pecked holes not blister rust tree topping. I am far from a climb lesson. Let alone using a chain saw up at that height. That I will leave for the pros! And yes don’t want to make holes all the way up but have too. After a pro has done work here and climbed a tree it has not shown much signs of the holes and the sap works fast to cover them up. The Norway pines do scare easier that the Whites though.
Here in northern Wisconsin and the UP of MI we do call them loggers. They mostly cut pulpwood. My great grand and grand parents clear-cut the whole damn place and the second growth be it 100 years where it was not re-cut never returned to them huge white pines. When truck goes by we say there goes a logging truck not lumberjack truck.
Any who thank you again.

 

[wiguy]

can't figure how to find and qustion

To the OP, you need to get in touch with the Ariel Arborist. He can set you straight on your spike question and I know he is an expert on mortaring tree cavities. He's rated #1 on Angies List. I'm sure he would be willing to answer your questions, I hear he laid up right now.

I looked for Ariel Arborist and Aerial Arborist. I found a post of one but could not figure out how to get to their profile let alone ask them a question. You have a link to how I do that?

 

[imalogger]

To the OP..

I don't mean to start a big logging argument.. But seriously, what do you wipe with? Plastic?? Those pulp wood trucks are playing a pretty vital part in your personal bathroom time. That old growth pine was needed to build much of wisconsin and much of it was put to very good use. Many barns built of it are still standing. Should the loggers 100 - 150 yrs ago have cut only small trees to build things out of and let the old growth get taken by bugs, diseases, fire ect..? As far as mortaring holes, nature has a way of taking care of things on its own and does a pretty good job of it if ppl don't mess w/ it. Did anyone mortar bug holes on the old growth pine of northern wisconsin? I don't think so. I think it's better to take a tree when it's ripe and in its prime, make the best and most use out of it rather than let it rot.. Cut em down and plant some new ones..

 

[Grouchy old man]

I looked for Ariel Arborist and Aerial Arborist. I found a post of one but could not figure out how to get to their profile let alone ask them a question. You have a link to how I do that?

Try Aerial Mason. :bang:

 

[513yj]

Try Aerial Mason. :bang:

I don't believe Z's sarcasm was picked up on even though he was laying it on very thickly :biggrinbounce2:

 

[Zale]

Too thick? I'll try to lighten it up next time.

 

[513yj]

Too thick? I'll try to lighten it up next time.

I thought everyone likes Tommy Boy...