What to start with

[Thayne Teichmer]

For the time I found a 36 in bar. So it begins. Hopefully the saw shows up at the dealership today .

 

[IyaMan]

For the time I found a 36 in bar. So it begins. Hopefully the saw shows up at the dealership today .

You may want to run the saw for a bit before going full on with milling. Maybe 5 or 10 tanks of bucking and whatnot (though there are different philosophies on break in period, so maybe others have better advice for this saw).
Otherwise, Happy Milling!

 

[Thayne Teichmer]

Well bad news.
Saw will not start.
Dealership said it would be a few days till they will get to it. There backed up.
I didn't even get to hold it.

Also was wondering about the break in on the saw. What do you need to do?

What about the mix for the gas?

I have not looked at the manual yet but wanted some input from all of you.

The dealership never sold a saw of this size before and the mtronic is not something they have delt with much.

So I wait and after all the bad news I hope that it turns out well.

 

[IyaMan]

Also was wondering about the break in on the saw. What do you need to do?

Regarding the running of the basic saw itself, it may be better to post questions like this in the Chainsaw forum, not Milling.

What about the mix for the gas?

Once up and running for milling applications, people will probably say that anywhere from a 32:1 up to 50:1 mix is best. But I don't run a Stihl and do not know the Mtronic, so don't take it from me. Let others advise.

 

[BlackCoffin]

I run the the Stihl synthetic oil and ethanol free fuel on all my saws 50:1 mix with zero issues from milling to bucking and everything in between.

 

[Thayne Teichmer]

Time for an update.

Finally got my MS661. She runs great and although I have only cut 2 passes through a 30 some in log I'm very impressed.

With the 36 inch bar and a full comp chain bar buried she didn't even bog. Granted I was not pushing it at all.

Pulled the muffler and will get the outlet enlarged tomorrow.

Further updates as time goes by.

 

[SeMoTony]

Time for an update.

Finally got my MS661. She runs great and although I have only cut 2 passes through a 30 some in log I'm very impressed.

With the 36 inch bar and a full comp chain bar buried she didn't even bog. Granted I was not pushing it at all.

Pulled the muffler and will get the outlet enlarged tomorrow.

Further updates as time goes by.

I don't have a pic now, but my 661 came with the exhaust ported (that is what I can see) and the can empty. I've since drilled a lot of 1/8" holes in the cover (just like a screen only different) at the angled corners to direct flow same way as hole in muffler. Not louder under helmet w/muffs & din't hurt running a 42" bar with 1/4" hole centered in sprocket tip.
I was told (by the reported porter) to run 1:32 in milling mix. I'm not exacting it may be 1:37 sometimes. I have not followed Snellerized advice that "661 likes a little more advance" yet since I've only run 6-7 tanks thru the saw and when the powerhead showed up there was no carbon at all in muffler. Now there is
Stay safe and enjoy the learning process

 

[Bedford T]

I started using av100 gas this month, here forward. The airport makes it easy. Cash or credit. It has enough lead in it to where I feel like 40:1 is going to make my mixing easy between milling and cutting saws. Not having to keep 32:1 anymore. H1R stays suspended for me. I pulled my muffler on my 029 and replaced it with one I modded and the exhaust port was perfectly clean, that was 19.5 years on Stihl oil

 

[coltree]

I started using av100 gas this month, here forward. The airport makes it easy. Cash or credit. It has enough lead in it to where I feel like 40:1 is going to make my mixing easy between milling and cutting saws. Not having to keep 32:1 anymore. H1R stays suspended for me. I pulled my muffler on my 029 and replaced it with one I modded and the exhaust port was perfectly clean, that was 19.5 years on Stihl oil

With lead in it, aren't you inhaling lead fumes, unless you have a snorkel?

 

[coltree]

Hey, I need 2 ms661 saws (primary and backup, canopy and stump cut) for crane climbing, and I also need to mill bigger wood (~45" diameter burl oak trunk). Any recommendations for a double ms661 powerhead setup? Is the bar length doubled to 64"? And where can I buy lots of hardwood ripping chain for cheap?

 

[rarefish383]

With lead in it, aren't you inhaling lead fumes, unless you have a snorkel?

Don't want to start another oil/fuel thread. But, I have 100CC Homelites that are 40-45 years old that still run strong. Back in the day we ran Amoco two cycle oil (32:1) and Amoco High Test, White Gas, no lead. Now in those same saws I run Stihl Synthetic at 50:1, and they are still running strong. I started running the Stihl Synthetic when I bought my MS 290 about 10-15 years ago. I do have a source of ethanol free fuel close to my property in WV, but I usually use pump gas I get here in MD. AV gas maybe better but I've never tried it. I'm trying to get down to 10 saws and I like to run the same fuel in all of them, Joe.

 

[rarefish383]

I mill mostly Red and Chestnut Oak with my 36" 660. I use out of the box Stihl chain because I cut more firewood than I mill. That way the saw can do double duty without swapping chains, I don't think it will work the other way. With a little practice you can get a pretty smooth cut with out ripping chain, Joe.

 

[Marine5068]

I mill mostly Red and Chestnut Oak with my 36" 660. I use out of the box Stihl chain because I cut more firewood than I mill. That way the saw can do double duty without swapping chains, I don't think it will work the other way. With a little practice you can get a pretty smooth cut with out ripping chain, Joe.

Hey Joe.
Saw this post and was thinking about all the CSM stuff as I want to mill some Red Oak trees I'm felling on my property.
I have a Stihl 044 Magnum and a Stihl 28" bar and standard cross cut chain.
I am buying a 36" Granberg mill and want to ask you if I should buy a ripping chain or two (or what you would do for a couple of Red Oak logs)
I'll be reading the whole CSM milling section to make sure I'm knowledgeable on some key factors before I start, but just wanted to get another perspective on starting out CSMing.
I also have a large White Pine I may mill after the Oaks.
Tell me what you'd do.
Thanks,
~Stan

 

[rarefish383]

Stan, I hope I don't embarrass BobL, he's forgotten more than I will ever learn. So I would read the 101 stickey at the top of the page. But, as to what I do. Somewhere years ago I read where Bob said that a smooth cut was as much technique as chain. I milled some white pine on my hunting property in WV with Stihl chain and it worked well. Being lazy I never tried milling chain, didn't want to take the time to swap it. I've found that if you get one end of the log off the ground, and keep your path clear, so you can walk smoothly next to the log, you can get a nice cut. The other thing is try not to take a step and stop, and definitely don't rock the bar forward and back, both leave what I call chatter marks, where the chain is spinning but not cutting. I mill with the tip leading in the cut a little. I just bumped my old thread "Two Oak Mantles" to the top. Take a look at that. Those are 3" Red Oak slabs. I ran each side through my planer 3 times and all the saw marks are gone. I gave a friend an old Homelite C5 and he bought milling chain for it. The first cut he made was smoother than my cuts, I was a little impressed, but not enough to pay for milling chain. If I'm in the woods cutting firewood, and the saw is cutting sharp, then I switch to milling, I touch the chain up even though it was cutting good. Just because it cuts well cross cutting, doesn't mean it will mill well. That was my first big learning curve. I can buck many, many logs and not need to touch up a chain, as long as I stay out of the dirt. Milling Oak I need to touch up the chain every 3-4 slabs. Just remember that any extra movement of the bar in the cut is going to leave marks. Rocking back and forth, stopping and going. If you have to push real hard your chain is dull. The 044 is about the same size as my Homelite 924 and I have a 30" bar on it. You get the feel of the difference of dull, and just cutting slower, with a smaller saw. The 924 might cut a little slower than the 1050 or 660, but it's still throwing saw dust and I don't have to lean on it. If your leaning on the saw and it's not throwing saw dust, you need a touch up. Don't try to mill dirty logs, debark them if you have to. Be patient and practice. Get a new chain for your first cut, it will give you a base line of how it feels. If your just starting don't trust your skill at sharpening. If you mill the couple trees you have and like it, by all means try the milling chain. If I wasn't so cheap, and have so many other projects going, I would have tried it by now. Good luck, Joe.

 

[BobL]

Smooth cut is mostly technique unless you strike a synchronisation of cut width, chains speed and cutting speed and this produces the well known washboard effect.
Because I'm lazy and a bit older than most CSMers, I also adopted techniques to minimise the physical effort required so use arms and shoulders less and use legs more.
A remote lockable throttle is a real help.
Sloping logs (even a little) reduces the need to push.
Where possible I apply pressure on the wrap handle with my legs like this.

 

[Marine5068]

Stan, I hope I don't embarrass BobL, he's forgotten more than I will ever learn. So I would read the 101 stickey at the top of the page. But, as to what I do. Somewhere years ago I read where Bob said that a smooth cut was as much technique as chain. I milled some white pine on my hunting property in WV with Stihl chain and it worked well. Being lazy I never tried milling chain, didn't want to take the time to swap it. I've found that if you get one end of the log off the ground, and keep your path clear, so you can walk smoothly next to the log, you can get a nice cut. The other thing is try not to take a step and stop, and definitely don't rock the bar forward and back, both leave what I call chatter marks, where the chain is spinning but not cutting. I mill with the tip leading in the cut a little. I just bumped my old thread "Two Oak Mantles" to the top. Take a look at that. Those are 3" Red Oak slabs. I ran each side through my planer 3 times and all the saw marks are gone. I gave a friend an old Homelite C5 and he bought milling chain for it. The first cut he made was smoother than my cuts, I was a little impressed, but not enough to pay for milling chain. If I'm in the woods cutting firewood, and the saw is cutting sharp, then I switch to milling, I touch the chain up even though it was cutting good. Just because it cuts well cross cutting, doesn't mean it will mill well. That was my first big learning curve. I can buck many, many logs and not need to touch up a chain, as long as I stay out of the dirt. Milling Oak I need to touch up the chain every 3-4 slabs. Just remember that any extra movement of the bar in the cut is going to leave marks. Rocking back and forth, stopping and going. If you have to push real hard your chain is dull. The 044 is about the same size as my Homelite 924 and I have a 30" bar on it. You get the feel of the difference of dull, and just cutting slower, with a smaller saw. The 924 might cut a little slower than the 1050 or 660, but it's still throwing saw dust and I don't have to lean on it. If your leaning on the saw and it's not throwing saw dust, you need a touch up. Don't try to mill dirty logs, debark them if you have to. Be patient and practice. Get a new chain for your first cut, it will give you a base line of how it feels. If your just starting don't trust your skill at sharpening. If you mill the couple trees you have and like it, by all means try the milling chain. If I wasn't so cheap, and have so many other projects going, I would have tried it by now. Good luck, Joe.

Thanks so much Joe.

 

[Marine5068]

Smooth cut is mostly technique unless you strike a synchronisation of cut width, chains speed and cutting speed and this produces the well known washboard effect.
Because I'm lazy and a bit older than most CSMers, I also adopted techniques to minimise the physical effort required so use arms and shoulders less and use legs more.
A remote lockable throttle is a real help.
Sloping logs (even a little) reduces the need to push.
Where possible I apply pressure on the wrap handle with my legs like this.
View attachment 632122

Thanks Bob

 

[Marine5068]

I'll fell the trees and may buy a couple loops of 28" milling chain before slabbing.
And I will definitely take lots of pics and maybe some video of my first attempts at CSM... because you know what we say on here, if no pics, it never really happened...lol.
Thanks again for your tips and help fellas. I appreciate your time and advice.