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Bonus content, clutch drum was heavily grooved and was almost mimicking a hanging idle...it was just getting stuck engaged. It really needs a new drum, but this is the cheese-ball and el cheapo way to address the issue...but it works lol:
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All done, impressed with the results. This has a tapered edge on the piston and tapered squish band. On the negative side, it has some free-porting on the exhaust. Next iteration will be with a 064 piston. I should be able to turn that into a domed piston and solve any free-porting issues.

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Next project showed up last night. Not a full build, owner just wants it to "run better." I'm thinking timing advance and muffler mod.

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Just a heads-up, a muff mod and timing advance will wake them up but if you're doing climbing it may not be a great idea. I noticed that a buddy's stock 192 would have the chain slow/stop quickly once you let off the trigger but my modded 192 will have the chain spin for an extra second or three. Might not be an issue, but it's something I've considered.
 
Just a heads-up, a muff mod and timing advance will wake them up but if you're doing climbing it may not be a great idea. I noticed that a buddy's stock 192 would have the chain slow/stop quickly once you let off the trigger but my modded 192 will have the chain spin for an extra second or three. Might not be an issue, but it's something I've considered.
I've actually done a couple of 192s. I used to own one and climbed with it muffler-modded and timing advanced. I did another one that I ported as well, I was able to get some gains out of it, but I'm kind of limited on what I can do to a 192 IMO. The ones I've worked on all had egregiously wide squish bands and being a clamshell, I don't have an easy way to correct that.

This particular saw is for a non-climber...just trail-clearing on a dirtbike. He doesn't like the way that it runs, but I honestly think it would be a waste of his money for me to start grinding on it.

I sold my 192 awhile back, I'm running my ported/machined/muffler-modded 201tcm and muffler-modded 2511t as my climbing saws now. I thought the 201 was kind of a dog in stock form too, but mine really woke up with some minor port work and machining the squish band to .020" clearance. The 2511 is really good with just the gutted and opened-up muffler. I'll tear into that at some point, but I'm curious to see where/how I can improve upon it.
 
I've actually done a couple of 192s. I used to own one and climbed with it muffler-modded and timing advanced. I did another one that I ported as well, I was able to get some gains out of it, but I'm kind of limited on what I can do to a 192 IMO. The ones I've worked on all had egregiously wide squish bands and being a clamshell, I don't have an easy way to correct that.

This particular saw is for a non-climber...just trail-clearing on a dirtbike. He doesn't like the way that it runs, but I honestly think it would be a waste of his money for me to start grinding on it.

I sold my 192 awhile back, I'm running my ported/machined/muffler-modded 201tcm and muffler-modded 2511t as my climbing saws now. I thought the 201 was kind of a dog in stock form too, but mine really woke up with some minor port work and machining the squish band to .020" clearance. The 2511 is really good with just the gutted and opened-up muffler. I'll tear into that at some point, but I'm curious to see where/how I can improve upon it.
Now I'm thinking, what if you carefully machined the bearing cups a wee bit deeper and shaved a wee bit off of the mating surface at the bottom of the cylinder/clamshell? Not necessarily easy, but possible.
 
Now I'm thinking, what if you carefully machined the bearing cups a wee bit deeper and shaved a wee bit off of the mating surface at the bottom of the cylinder/clamshell? Not necessarily easy, but possible.
I think that's the only real way to do it and use the stock piston. My other idea is if I found a piston with the same diameter, but a bit taller. Then I could just machine the piston to fit...it's doable, but at that point, it just makes more sense to just get the 201.
 
On the bench at the moment I have a handed down Poulan 25da that I replaced the fuel lines in 10 years ago and stopped using when i moved shortly after. A shot of ether and fresh fuel it breathed into life once again. It's awaiting a new sprocket and some foam for an airfilter.
Also a freebie stihl white 011ave that needs a new sprocket and tank vent at the least. It runs already and oils so it's on the right track!
 
025 today. Took 3 from a sale and made 1 so far. Snappy little thing! Hope to get 2 out of the deal with some parts I had on hand. Awesome little truck/ tractor saws.
A new member here is looking for a crank to fit an 025 or a 250. His snapped at the flywheel taper but the saw is still good.
 
A new member here is looking for a crank to fit an 025 or a 250. His snapped at the flywheel taper but the saw is still good.
Ok. I'm dealing with the funeral for a daughter at the moment. Could someone do me a favor and remind me to look him up in 4 or 5 days? My mind is a wreck at the moment. On here for some therapy!
 
Ok. I'm dealing with the funeral for a daughter at the moment. Could someone do me a favor and remind me to look him up in 4 or 5 days? My mind is a wreck at the moment. On here for some therapy!
I'll be more than glad to help him out if I can once I'm somewhat back to a normal state.
 
Throwing a dukes moly coated flat top 395 piston in the farmertec G395xp. The $4.25 piston that comes in them hair out of spec. Pic of ft piston still on it.

Saw cuts just like oem 395's.

with just a half tank after swap. Picked up 12psi

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Let us know what kind of wear you see on these skirts after five or ten tanks. My saw will be mostly milling with a 394 jug ported but running a 395 piston. Eating pistons isn't great but it beats wearing down the OE plating. The coating is made to wear off over time it seems. I expect the rings to live a short life on this thing vs just bucking and felling.
 
Let us know what kind of wear you see on these skirts after five or ten tanks. My saw will be mostly milling with a 394 jug ported but running a 395 piston. Eating pistons isn't great but it beats wearing down the OE plating. The coating is made to wear off over time it seems. I expect the rings to live a short life on this thing vs just bucking and felling.
I put the 394 one in 394 for local. Put the 395 one in Farmertec 395.

So will be a bit. But boy they both run great. 36" buried.

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I put the 394 one in 394 for local. Put the 395 one in Farmertec 395.

So will be a bit. But boy they both run great. 36" buried.

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Good news on the clone front. It doesn't come often. Most of what we still hear is horror stories about how a bearing cage came apart from days gone by. It's about time a decent clone can be updated in few spots and run as is.

How were ports and plating edges on these latest offerings?
Ring off death and port edges were most of the old issues.
 
I just hope the 395 piston skirt can cover my widened 394 intake port. If not the new piston or my old one is getting a ring pin relocation to the center of the port like the 395 piston. I'm not big on eliminating the second ring. My cylinder is done but only cut down 0.008 with nothing removed from the intake roof corners, well, not on my bench. A little was removed before it landed here but not close enough to the ring end to catch it, yet. I still don't like the location as produced. Switch to a single wider ring is still an option but not the best one.
 
Good news on the clone front. It doesn't come often. Most of what we still hear is horror stories about how a bearing cage came apart from days gone by. It's about time a decent clone can be updated in few spots and run as is.

How were ports and plating edges on these latest offerings?
Ring off death and port edges were most of the old issues.
Porting numbers checked by several people was right with oem numbers.

The port bevels not greatest and isnt pretty to look at the beveling. But they run great. If you didnt pull it down you would never know.

I mean it's a $26 p+c kit what do you really expect? Whole saw is 100 over a oem p+c kit cost.

Not a great pic but isnt wasnt bad. I did see some others from later batches that wasnt as nice. Mine was first batch sold.

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Porting numbers checked by several people was right with oem numbers.

The port bevels not greatest and isnt pretty to look at the beveling. But they run great. If you didnt pull it down you would never know.

I mean it's a $26 p+c kit what do you really expect? Whole saw is 100 over a oem p+c kit cost.

Not a great pic but isnt wasnt bad. I did see some others from later batches that wasnt as nice. Mine was first batch sold.

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That looks ok to use like you said. As is if it ran ok.

A few minutes with a tool in the ports might just be worth the time now if it runs damn near the same as a stock saw. I could never find enough meat in most offering to fix all the direction and port location issues to be a contender. Once the blow down is spread too far it's over for the midrange power. The ports were always to narrow on the sides and poorly positioned with terrible exit angles in most castings available to the AM market. Intake ports were always a crap shoot on everyone. About six casting in various models with different manufacturers were even worth fixing up. Meteor only had two decent offerings I've ever found. Hyway had three and few others no longer making cylinders. Never boughtva large AM Husky cylinder after looking at a few. That seems to have changed in recent years. It sure did for the 084 and the 21XX Huskies. Still haven't tampered with the Stihl AM one yet. On an XP thing here lately.

If you can run yours and another with the same mods you'd probably have one of the best head to head tests around. Power under the curve is all that matters in the real world. Those peaky numbers are a joke most times on flow machines and dyno runs.
 
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