When do you use your chain brake?

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When do you set your chain safety brake on your chainsaw? (multiple choice)

  • Always: I smoked the clutch and Lake is fixing it

    Votes: 2 1.8%
  • When I start it

    Votes: 24 21.2%
  • When I set it down

    Votes: 33 29.2%
  • When I walk around with it

    Votes: 56 49.6%
  • My saw never had a safety brake

    Votes: 9 8.0%
  • The safety brake is broken

    Votes: 2 1.8%
  • I use my teeth to stop the chain

    Votes: 28 24.8%

  • Total voters
    113
If the motor is running and I am not cutting, the brake is on. Especially if I have to take some steps or I am setting the saw down which I do alot to wrestle blocks I am cutting.

I pop it off and on constantly, wrist on hand off. It's a built in habit.

Same here. I do remember when the brake first showed up and the old guys were removing them. These same guys didn't wear hearing protection because they couldn't hear the tree start to pop. That was around 1974 or 1975. Some things change for the better eh?
 
Same here.
+1 ditto, if its got one on it its on when I am crawling around as soon as I'm outta da cut and the chain slows I flick my wrist and engage it, habit, I'll even do this if I'm just moving down a log bucking if the ground is uneven and I have to look for decent foot placement, just makes sense to this ol' guy :D I'd rather have a stall than lose a ball, so ta speak.. :rock:

:chainsaw: :chainsaw: :chainsaw:

:cheers:

Serge
 
I figure that the interlock is for moving around. Keep my hand off the interlock and my finger off the trigger when taking a few steps. However, using the brake takes no effort and causes no delay in production...how can it be bad to use it?
 
The saw I've been using the most recently is a 361 c-q with the second braking system. I know a few people may think its just another part to go wrong...but it seems to work pretty good and I haven't had any issues with it yet. When your not depressing the safety lock above the trigger the chainbrake is on, so its effortless to apply.
 
The saw I've been using the most recently is a 361 c-q with the second braking system. I know a few people may think its just another part to go wrong...but it seems to work pretty good and I haven't had any issues with it yet. When your not depressing the safety lock above the trigger the chainbrake is on, so its effortless to apply.

Poka-yoke...
 
Question??

I know this might sound dumb, butttt, I thought if your carb was adjusted correctly your chain wouldn't spin when at idle?.?. So what exactly is the point of turning it off and on if it's just sitting at idle?? I'm really not being argumentative, just wondering if I'm missing some benefit of using it??? I know I put brakes on all the saws the wifey runs, but my 2 biggest saws, the 288xp and the 056MagII do not have them nor does any of my 41's or the little 020 I've got... :popcorn:
 
Same here. I do remember when the brake first showed up and the old guys were removing them. These same guys didn't wear hearing protection because they couldn't hear the tree start to pop. That was around 1974 or 1975. Some things change for the better eh?

Eh?? What say???:dizzy:
 
I know this might sound dumb, butttt, I thought if your carb was adjusted correctly your chain wouldn't spin when at idle?.?. So what exactly is the point of turning it off and on if it's just sitting at idle??

If the chain brake is off, all it takes is one slip and you're a gelding.

Starting the saw with the brake on is great for knowing if the damn thing works. It's also a good habit with long bars as it keeps them out of the dirt :)

Also, one momentary fuel blockage, gulp of air, even when the fuel is about to run out, can increase rpm unexpectedly. consider it one less sharpen if anything...:clap:
 
Definitely brake on when cold-starting a saw. When warm-starting it, I don't do it (probably should).

While cutting: As long as I'm holding the saw solidly with two hands, and not moving ***much***, I leave the brake off. This means if I'm limbing by walking along the trunk, I leave it off, and hit each branch. If I have to take a hand off the saw (for example to pick up a wedge and put it back in my pocket, or to steady myself as I climb around), the brake goes on first. Also, since we are in pretty steep terrain, I put the brake on even when just moving a few steps, if it looks like I might slip (which is quite common, I've had to throw the saw into the dirt many times).

When moving more than a few steps, I actually turn the saw off, and take the earmuffs down. I just don't like wandering around in potentially hostile territory (steep slopes, slippery places, occasionaly rattlesnakes) with my senses blocked out by the earmuffs. That's just me, I understand that other people can work all day in the forest with earmuffs on and an ipod underneath it, it just spooks me. Fortunately, all my saws restart on a single quick pull when warm (if they don't, they get readjusted until they do again).
 
I had a guy working with me in knee deep pine slash, both had 66's with full chisels. I told him to use the brake when he wasnt cutting and he told me that if hes not reving it wouldnt cut. He threw the saw down to move some slash and magic bullet kind of branch managed to pin the throttle open. The saw jumps around like crazy and he ended up diving out of the way.

We both used the brake alot more after that.
 
Just to check that it works from time to time.I like having it there but have never had it trip other than a wayward branch catching it.I always figured starting with it on was hard on the clutch.If I have to move around I set it out of the way or shut it off if for more than a couple minutes or so-I don't like idling a two stroke.My grandfather always cut them off his newer ones.When he got his Partner 5000 the first thing he did is go get the hacksaw.That always scared me but he said"If you know what you're doing ,do it right and pay attention you'll never need it-and it's just in the way otherwise"It worked for him as he never had a cut from it and he payed attention as the toes of his boots were scar-less,unlike alot of people I see these days.The pp is great and I wear it but I think a lot of people rely on it to save them rather than concentrate on proper procedures and technique.
 
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I had a guy working with me in knee deep pine slash, both had 66's with full chisels. I told him to use the brake when he wasnt cutting and he told me that if hes not reving it wouldnt cut. He threw the saw down to move some slash and magic bullet kind of branch managed to pin the throttle open. The saw jumps around like crazy and he ended up diving out of the way.

We both used the brake alot more after that.

I have had branches snag the throttle when limbing. Scared the wazzo out of me the first time it happened. I use the brake a lot more when climbing through branches and limbing. Too easy to get snagged and trip. :greenchainsaw:
 
I just bought my first saws that have a chain brake. I havent found a use for them except for accidentally engaging them and.... smoking the clutch. The fact they are there doesn't bother me, if it will reduce the severity of a kick- back injury should it happen so be it.
 
Never use chainbrakes myself, but they have saved a potential messy kick back when hitting metal objects in wood.

Have only found one project saw to not have a working chainbrake so far the hard way.

All my saws I learned on didn't have chainbrake, just a hand guard, to me thats good enough.

Now running some of the Ole iron at the gtg without any type of hand guard, did make me move my hand over on the top handle thinking the worst in my mind at the time. :cry:
 
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Just got done cutting a little pickup load of alder for firewood. The chainbrake was on a lot cuz I was cutting out of a deck and the footing was slippery...left my calks at work. To me, it is like the safety on a gun, a very nice thing to have but you still need to be careful. When I first started, the guys had all taken their chainbrakes off. I left mine on because I figure I need all the help I can get from technology. Time to go soak in the tub..
 
Ive never had a kickback...always cutting on the ground, never in a tree or anything.

If you keep your bar out of the DANGER zone, should need it....and fwiw, I learned on a Homelite XL..just a loop and a top handle, not even a guard.
 
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