When to Top My Bradford Pears ? USDA Zone 7A

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
old_soul

old_soul

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Jun 8, 2012
Messages
337
Location
navarre ohio
Well best time to top them is when leaves are on so that you can see if the lateral you are cutting to is still alive or not.............

Why do they "need" topped? Weight, windthrow? Usually thinning them out will help because they are just so thick.

And the brush that comes out of theses trees! Fill a chip truck in a hurry
 

bigv

ArboristSite Operative
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2012
Messages
130
Location
Western NC
Let's rephrase the question: WHEN- what time of year- should I should I thin the trees out that the crotches and reduce the crown ?

Their growth got out of control when I wasn't around for several years. The largest are approaching 30-35 foot high, and in western NC, it will take about 1 good ice storm for them to split down the middle. I've lost some of the smaller ones like that already.

I like them, but I have to do something and the shade they provide around the house makes a pretty big difference during summer as far as cooling bills.
 
sgreanbeans

sgreanbeans

Treeaculterologist
Joined
May 4, 2001
Messages
4,375
Location
iowa
That is not a fruit bearing tree, well, kinda, but not edible fruit. Just a ornamental. Winter is a good time to prune almost all trees, I remember that there is a pine in SoCal that ya couldn't. Canary? Jeffery? Other than that one, I don't know of another that would be bad to prune in winter.
To the OP, all ornamental Pears are notorious for bad structure, to top them would only make them much much worse. Real bad with included bark. If u are doing reduction cuts, do it back to something that is at least 1/3rd the dia of what you are taking and make sure that it has a good attachment. They will explode with epicormic shoots (suckers) next year, just FYI, if ya let them go for a couple years, you will have a big mess. High maintenance tree if you want to keep them small and from splitting. With them being so bad with the included bark, chances are they will split anyways. As they grow, they push on each other constantly and will eventually push on off. No matter what is going on above, 2 things trying to occupy one space. Don't try and fix all that at the crotch, where they all come out. Its too late and you will do more harm than good. That should have been done when they where bebe's. If they provide shade, and they are that big and old. I would start something else to replace. Just not another Pear. Maples are good, quick growing shade tree's, but stay away from the crazy hybrids they keep coming out with, like the Morning Glory Super Blaze Fire Crimson Blast. They also have bad structure. I have seen a few that where taken care of from the begining. They can be decent trees if maintained, but most are shoved in a hole and forgot about, till they get to big, by then, they are a mess.
 
windthrown

windthrown

361 Junkie
Joined
Sep 24, 2006
Messages
10,885
Location
The longbar PNW
Bradford Pear, Pyrus calleryana, AKA Callery pear. It is in the rose/pear family, and is usually grown as a flowering tree (rather than for fruit). Alianthus or Tree From Hell Tree of Heaven is in a completely different order and family of tree. Alianthus here is listed as invasive, and it is completely useless, even for firewood.

For any pears, apples or other pome fruit, I prune in late winter to avoid frost damage and disease. I used to prune orchards in Cali and we pruned in late February before bud break for fruiting trees, and just after flowering in March for ornamentals. Its a lot warmer there though. I live in zone 7b here and prune my apple and pear trees in early March before they flower. If you do not care about losing flowers, prune them just before the buds begin to swell in spring for the least damage. You can also "French prune" them in mid summer, to take the crown down or shape the tree, and to cut out any doubled up branches that are typical in apple and pear trees.
 
climber32

climber32

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Nov 27, 2011
Messages
39
Location
illinois
Cleveland select pears don't usually develop as bad a structure as a Bradford pear. the storms that rolled through central IL in November took out the majority of existing Bradford pears on our ROW thank god. Bradford pears have been on our restricted planting list for about 15 years now. the best cut you can make is as 2treeornot2tree says, about 3 inches from ground level.
 

ATH

Addicted to ArboristSite
. AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Nov 19, 2006
Messages
5,041
Location
Ohio
Bradford and Cleveland Select are two cultivars of Pyrus calleryana (as windthrown said for Bradford...just confirming that Cleveland Select is another...cultivar of the same species). While Cleveland Select has slightly better form, they all have weak wood. Good pruning practices starting very early in the trees' life can help make them better able to tolerate wind...but there are VERY few that I find that have been maintained well so they are all a ticking time bomb as far as I can tell. Ice or wind is coming at some point. The fact that they keep their leaves so long, makes them susceptible to those heavy early snows too.
 

ATH

Addicted to ArboristSite
. AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Nov 19, 2006
Messages
5,041
Location
Ohio
Bradford Pear, Pyrus calleryana, AKA Callery pear. It is in the rose/pear family, and is usually grown as a flowering tree (rather than for fruit). Alianthus or Tree From Hell Tree of Heaven is in a completely different order and family of tree. Alianthus here is listed as invasive, and it is completely useless, even for firewood...
Callery pear is invasive to those of us in the east...I suspect you are not fat behind. But, I guess it at least makes OK firewood...

PS: When you do the 3" final pruning cut, treat the stump with Tordon or another herbicide, or it will come back.
 
DR. P. Proteus

DR. P. Proteus

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Dec 2, 2013
Messages
2,358
I don't understand why you guys have such overwhelming hatred to these cute little trees. Its almost as if you were hyping it up for some strange reason. I have hatracked a considerable amount of these trees with the thought that I am not hurting it anymore that it already is... or is going to be.
 

ATH

Addicted to ArboristSite
. AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Nov 19, 2006
Messages
5,041
Location
Ohio
The point is that "nature taking control" means it will likely get torn up in a storm. If it is good shape, you need to maintain that shape with frequent maintenance pruning to prolong its useful life.
 
Top