clearance
Addicted to ArboristSite
Get a longer bar. My 2171 has a 28", my 394 a 30", my 395 a 32".
Where can I order a good quality sawhorse
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Get a longer bar. My 2171 has a 28", my 394 a 30", my 395 a 32".
Too much work
Man I'm with you. Those guys seem to be going through a lot of work to cut up a few feet of wood. I guess I'm just lazy. I'll cut mine on the ground and roll it over.
Man I'm with you. Those guys seem to be going through a lot of work to cut up a few feet of wood. I guess I'm just lazy. I'll cut mine on the ground and roll it over.
BlueRidgeMark
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've done it both ways. You guys are doing more work, not less. Suit yourself! 
Sawbuck Plans
Here's the one I built using my own plans. Nothing could be much more simpler or more effective:
The amazing thing about this is that it's a production dream. The four crossed pieces are identical and so are the rails that tie them together. Use some good strong knot-free lumber such as southern yellow pine or pressure treated (hardwood if you can afford it). Rounding the top ends is optional.
Another option is to use just a pair of 2 x 6's located a little lower than the top 2 x 4 pair as shown rather than four 2 x 4s to tie the supports together. Make good joints and do a good job. In the long run, it pays off.
Here's the one I built using my own plans. Nothing could be much more simpler or more effective:
The amazing thing about this is that it's a production dream. The four crossed pieces are identical and so are the rails that tie them together. Use some good strong knot-free lumber such as southern yellow pine or pressure treated (hardwood if you can afford it). Rounding the top ends is optional.
Another option is to use just a pair of 2 x 6's located a little lower than the top 2 x 4 pair as shown rather than four 2 x 4s to tie the supports together. Make good joints and do a good job. In the long run, it pays off.
Took down a beautiful baldcypress (HO didn't like the "mess" it makes) and couldn't bear to throw away even the branches. So, been dreaming about having a sawbuck, did a search on AS, and now this is what I have:
<a href="http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa157/cliffstreecare/?action=view¤t=sawbuck2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa157/cliffstreecare/sawbuck2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa157/cliffstreecare/?action=view¤t=sawbuck1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa157/cliffstreecare/sawbuck1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Primitive, yet functional! Really boosts productivity. Thanks to all y'all & AS for this informative thread!
<a href="http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa157/cliffstreecare/?action=view¤t=sawbuck2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa157/cliffstreecare/sawbuck2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa157/cliffstreecare/?action=view¤t=sawbuck1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa157/cliffstreecare/sawbuck1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Primitive, yet functional! Really boosts productivity. Thanks to all y'all & AS for this informative thread!
wkpoor
Addicted to ArboristSite
I posted this on the hints thread awhile back.
If you own a splitter you already have a sawbuck of the best kind. Just pinch one end of the log perpindicular against the foot and wedge and wala! Your log is held securely with most or all out in the open to cut. How much can stick out depends on the length and diameter of the log. With my 3pt unit I can hang almost anything out the side. With a stand alone you might want to balance it towards the middle and work off both ends.
If you own a splitter you already have a sawbuck of the best kind. Just pinch one end of the log perpindicular against the foot and wedge and wala! Your log is held securely with most or all out in the open to cut. How much can stick out depends on the length and diameter of the log. With my 3pt unit I can hang almost anything out the side. With a stand alone you might want to balance it towards the middle and work off both ends.
When I have the $$$ & space for a splitter I might try that. Meantime, I think
a sawbuck is great. Can put lotsa logs on there.
a sawbuck is great. Can put lotsa logs on there.
gr8scott72
Addicted to ArboristSite
I just threw something together with some scrap 2x4s I had laying around:
coppermouse
ArboristSite Operative
I actually ended up making one and it worked out well.
savageactor7
ArboristSite Guru
If you want to make real production and save your back from unnecessary lifting...learn to tip cut the limbs on the ground. Saw bucks are holdover antiques from the days when you were forced to use hand saws. If you want to get 5 years or so ahead of wood and do this in your 70's you have to be mindful about eliminating ANY extra handling...the body can take just so much.
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gr8scott72
Addicted to ArboristSite
When you have a large stack of wood to be cut and you cut them where they are, you run into the problem of the cut pieces then being in your way and you end up having to handle them all anyway.
The only time I use the sawhorse is when I have someone helping me. They can grab a log and feed it through the sawhorse while I cut. Then you just end up with one stack of cut logs right where you want them without having to move all the cut pieces.
I hate to disagree with an old-timer
, but I think the bending over to ground-cut would be harder on the back than proper lifting. Besides, my kids can load
the sawbuck for me while I just cut away & grin.
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have been using one off these besides a wooden one.
It works very well because it doesn't have anything between the crossing points of the wood holding steel parts. That has the effect that the saw can swing freely without sawing into the sawhorse. I just copied the photo of the net so the dimensions aren't so good visible.
7
It works very well because it doesn't have anything between the crossing points of the wood holding steel parts. That has the effect that the saw can swing freely without sawing into the sawhorse. I just copied the photo of the net so the dimensions aren't so good visible.
7
Red X on the image, but the URL works. Why three cross supports? What purpose does the center one serve? Just curious.I have been using one off these besides a wooden one.
It works very well because it doesn't have anything between the crossing points of the wood holding steel parts. That has the effect that the saw can swing freely without sawing into the sawhorse. I just copied the photo of the net so the dimensions aren't so good visible.
7
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
I am not quite sure what you mean. I will try to illustrate in my opion the good points.
As you can see gr8scott72's sawhorse comes regularly in contact with the chain.
That is something that I haven't noticed with my model. I can swing freely after sawing through. Of course there is always a debate about the safety. Who knows you might swing to far
, but that is another reason why I wear my ppe. I regularly cut the wood in 1 meter pieces to dry. After drying for a year I stack the wood on the sawhorse and cut them to 1/3 pieces that easily fit into the stove. On the photo the sawhorse is not fully extended.
The pros:
- foldable, so it's easy to store or transport
- sawteeth like woodholder, I have never had the problem of wood moving around while cutting
- not very expensive, about 20€
The cons:
- sawteeth can be a pain when trying to reposition the wood
- it doesn't seem to be as robust as my wood sawhorse
7
Nosmo
Addicted to ArboristSite
Older Thread Revisited
I've been doing a search for plans used to make a sawbuck and ran across this thread. There are some good ideas within the thread and I plan on making one.
To answer one previous question "why use a sawbuck when you can just buck it up on the ground" ?
Well when I cut my own wood I use a home made log jack to cut the rounds
off at 15". I have a friend who is on the city's tree cutting crew and when they cut a tree up the lengths vary between 16 to 30 inches. If I want any free wood I have to take it like it hits the ground and I have to take it with me that way until I get it home. Nope I can't cut it shorter on the site.
Sure is going to make it easier to cut those pieces on a sawbuck.
Nosmo
I've been doing a search for plans used to make a sawbuck and ran across this thread. There are some good ideas within the thread and I plan on making one.
To answer one previous question "why use a sawbuck when you can just buck it up on the ground" ?
Well when I cut my own wood I use a home made log jack to cut the rounds
off at 15". I have a friend who is on the city's tree cutting crew and when they cut a tree up the lengths vary between 16 to 30 inches. If I want any free wood I have to take it like it hits the ground and I have to take it with me that way until I get it home. Nope I can't cut it shorter on the site.
Sure is going to make it easier to cut those pieces on a sawbuck.
Nosmo
Haywire Haywood
Fiscal Conservative Social Retard
I think something like that but with more capacity would be handy if you have a bunch of straight 6" logs to cut like you were clearing a fence row or something. Stack 10 or 15 of them on there and make a few big cuts instead of many small ones.
Ian
Ian
Here's a couple of Pic of the one I showed the plans for in post #24:
The frame is so strong that no other pieces are required and there is no wobble. All 4 uprights are identical and all four cross pieces are identical. Therefore, you only have to make two pieces four times each. Even the screws are all the same: 1-1/2" x #10 or #8. The secret to the success is the joinery, the design, and the workmanship. Hardwood is recommended, such as ash, but I used southern yellow pine and that worked.
The frame is so strong that no other pieces are required and there is no wobble. All 4 uprights are identical and all four cross pieces are identical. Therefore, you only have to make two pieces four times each. Even the screws are all the same: 1-1/2" x #10 or #8. The secret to the success is the joinery, the design, and the workmanship. Hardwood is recommended, such as ash, but I used southern yellow pine and that worked.
Nosmo
Addicted to ArboristSite
That is a nice job and it looks like a piece of fine furniture. I used to do some woodworking and turning a few years ago.
I did get mine made and used it yesterday. I have a lot of rounds the city cutting crew let me have and all of them need to be shortened to stovewood size.
Nosmo
I did get mine made and used it yesterday. I have a lot of rounds the city cutting crew let me have and all of them need to be shortened to stovewood size.
Nosmo
Well, it make look like a "piece of furniture" but that's the way I build things using wood. I have since painted it with exterior house paint. After 10 years, it still works.
