Which mill do you recommend for my 395?

[mwm]

I don't want to get into a battle of which mill is better, but I have a 395 and want to get a mill and there seems to be several different one's that people use on this forum. I have a 28", 36" and 42" bar. Any suggestions on which mill to buy?

Thanks in advance!

 

[flht01]

Either the GB mill or Granberg would do fine, just remember you loose about 6" of the bar's length to mounting clamps. You could get a full 36" cut using that 42" bar in a 36" mill.

 

[mwm]

Thanks. I'm already learning something. I thought GB was short for Granberg. I didn't realize it was too different mills!

 

[flht01]

Thanks. I'm already learning something. I thought GB was short for Granberg. I didn't realize it was too different mills!

Check out this thread for a few pictures of the GB mill

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=42874

Maybe wdchuck will jump in here with a little more info on the GB. I'm using the granberg 36" mill and have no complaints.

 

[wdchuck]

I've only just started with the GB mill, but it is solid in the hands and wood.

The one thing that I will be changing, the cpvc the the hand grips are mounted on to metal. The rest of the design seems to be pretty friendly, for both milling and bucking duty it's about 5 minutes to remove/install the saw from the mill.

The end near the powerhead mounts to the bar studs so the powerhead isn't suspended by the bar during use, it's all nice and rigid.

Aggiewoodbutcher has the same mill, but on a much larger scale, 84" bar.

 

[mwm]

Where can you buy a GB mill?

 

[wdchuck]

Call/PM Dean at Washington Hotsaws, 360-785-0533 he's an AS site sponsor, and has a forum on the site.

 

[TedChristiansen]

mwm,

Another option is Logosol mills - www.logosol.com. I am not affilliated, just a happy customer.

Ted

 

[dustytools]

I use the alaskan mill with no complaints other than I bought a 30 inch unit instead of the 36, other than that no problems with it here. Ive heard a lot of good things about the GB unit as well. You would more than likely be satisfied with either. Good luck.

 

[hautions11]

I like my Alaskan as well. Same problem as Dusty. Bought a 30 instead of the 36. Northwest chain saws, (sponsor) sells just the rails for $35, not bad.

 

[Adkpk]

Hautions what did you cut the sides off that log with?

I use a granberg but that GB looks good to me too.

Where's wooshop been, the Bahama's?

 

[CaseyForrest]

Ive got a GB 36" mill...works real nice....

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=36470

 

[oldsaw]

Granberg here. I got the 36", since I knew I'd never want to be too small...and it still happened.

Mark

 

[flht01]

Granberg here. I got the 36", since I knew I'd never want to be too small...and it still happened.

Mark

I guess the big question is, just what size is the best choice? I've got the 36" but have always run a 36" bar, making my max cut about 28". I'm planning on getting a bigger bar but have started thinking about getting longer rails to go with it. Just what would be the optimium size? :bang:

 

[hautions11]

Adrpk I just frehanded the sides with my 044. You do not have to be that precise.

 

[wdchuck]

Like chainsaws and bars, one size does not fit all applications, from the standpoint of cumbersome and weight, it would probably be a good idea to have 24" rails for the small stuff, and 48"+ rails for the bigger stuff.

For me, 24" and 60" would cover the bases for rail sizes, the 44" is going to force me to freehand the sides before milling from the top down, but logs over 40" are not too common to me, had 4 in one year.

 

[Fudomyo]

I would check out the Logosol. I just got a LSG kit from them (alaskan style). Their BigMill system is nice since their guide rail takes up the chainsaw forces. Ideally you angle the chainsaw a little and it will pull itself through the cut. Ergo, you can cut way more wood... I have to figure out how to hook that up for the LSG since I have the rollers etc.

hth
Andrew

 

[mwm]

Thanks for all the suggestions!

 

[Railomatic]

If you drill through the center of the sprocket nose you will gain an extra four inches of cutting space, don't be worried to do this because nearly all have a large solid bush at around a inch or more in the middle of the rollers inside,

You can drill the bar using an ordinary masonary drill which has been re-ground to 20 degrees or so, drill the pilot hole half the size of the finished hole, or you won't get a neat hole, drill hole to 5/16" for the nose and 3/8" for the other end, when you start drilling don't stop until you are right through, or the metal will work harden and make drilling more difficult, I us cobalt glass drills which cut through like butter.

For a 395 the most effective cutting width for the saw to weight ratio, is a width of no more than 36 inches any more and the fuel consumption will go up and strain upon the saw will wear things out faster than it should.

 

[oldsaw]

I guess the big question is, just what size is the best choice? I've got the 36" but have always run a 36" bar, making my max cut about 28". I'm planning on getting a bigger bar but have started thinking about getting longer rails to go with it. Just what would be the optimium size? :bang:

Just my personal opinion which is worth not much on the open market, but I think the 36" is getting pretty close. Where I am, I find the logs tend to be in the 16"-36" category, with most being in the 16-24" area. With a 36" mill and a 42" bar using all 36", you could cant and cut about a 48" log. I've done a 44" and had some room to spare. The upside is that you can keep your 36" bar on "active reserve" for when you need it. I still have a 36" bar that gets used on smaller stuff, I just marked the adjustment area on the rails with a Sharpie marker so I know exactly where to put it for each bar.

If I run into a bigger log, I'll just have to quarter it first.

Mark