which outrigger pad for concrete driveways?

[John464]

today my bucket truck operator cracked a driveway with the outriggers. We were using wooden pads. The thickness of the concrete pour appeared to be only 3-4". Obviously not thick enough, but it was our outriggers that punched through it so my insurance will have to pay for it.

My question is, which pads are best for weight distrubution on concrete driveways? Should I be purchasing thicker wooden ones(how many layers?), the plastic ones, the rubbers ones. Just want the best option so this does not happen again. What are you guys using?

 

[mckeetree]

Don't try to pick the truck up with the outriggers.

 

[Xtra]

John,
I was talking to this company at the Hartford show (I need some new pads for my tow-behind lift)
http://www.dicausa.com/dica-products.html

Their stuff is expensive, but most people I talked to who use their pads said they're worth the price.
(FYI: they were giving a 10% discount at the show and told me I could still get that pricing after I got back home).

As for size, here's what they recommend . . .

"Most regulatory authorities and DICA recommend at a minimum the Outrigger Pad should be three times the square inch area of the Outrigger Foot (i.e., 12"X14"=168 sq. in. X 3 = 504 sq. in.)".

 

[John464]

Don't try to pick the truck up with the outriggers.

when you are parked on a slope. one side of the truck must be picked up to level it out. I dont see a way around that or is there?

 

[John464]

John,
I was talking to this company at the Hartford show (I need some new pads for my tow-behind lift)
http://www.dicausa.com/dica-products.html

Their stuff is expensive, but most people I talked to who use their pads said they're worth the price.
(FYI: they were giving a 10% discount at the show and told me I could still get that pricing after I got back home).

As for size, here's what they recommend . . .

"Most regulatory authorities and DICA recommend at a minimum the Outrigger Pad should be three times the square inch area of the Outrigger Foot (i.e., 12"X14"=168 sq. in. X 3 = 504 sq. in.)".

thanks, ill give them a call

 

[mckeetree]

when you are parked on a slope. one side of the truck must be picked up to level it out. I dont see a way around that or is there?

No, if you are on a slope you have to level the truck but most driveways are pretty flat. I like to put just a little pressure on the outriggers on concrete. That way you distribute the weight between the riggers and the truck tires. I use large pieces of 3/4 plywood also on concrete and don't get close to the edge.

 

[Husky137]

Seems unfortunate that you are stuck holding the bag for someone elses substandard workmanship.

 

[mikecross23]

Seems unfortunate that you are stuck holding the bag for someone elses substandard workmanship.

Sometimes it sucks to be the biz owner.

I don't know what brand they are, but we use the hard plastic ones. They work good but when the concrete is in question we also put down plywood. Eventually I want some alternamats.

Mike

 

[Rftreeman]

what I do is, if you are working off one side or the other of the truck then if possible put that out rigger on the dirt, if you can't get it on the dirt and the pad is right on the edge then use some blocks of wood on the edge of the yard to keep the pad off the edge of the concrete and as stated before, don't put all the weight on the out riggers.

 

[ropensaddle]

when you are parked on a slope. one side of the truck must be picked up to level it out. I dont see a way around that or is there?

In truth this level thing is just the opposite in my experience
I would rather be a little off level that stressing my out riggers!
I have seen accidents resulting from building up a side so far that
dullies on one side are ready for flat repair. This is a good way of
a problem as the air brake wheel chock only has one side and the
multiple blocks create unstable situation if the rigger slips off the
result can be roll over as happened at a company I used to work
with. I usually just firm the high side and raise the low enough to
stable the truck but no multiple blocks unless I am changing tire.

 

[ropensaddle]

today my bucket truck operator cracked a driveway with the outriggers. We were using wooden pads. The thickness of the concrete pour appeared to be only 3-4". Obviously not thick enough, but it was our outriggers that punched through it so my insurance will have to pay for it.

My question is, which pads are best for weight distrubution on concrete driveways? Should I be purchasing thicker wooden ones(how many layers?), the plastic ones, the rubbers ones. Just want the best option so this does not happen again. What are you guys using?

This is why I stay off drive ways or have a signed statement
explaining that the driveway contractor is responsible if I crack
the driveway. They go cheap illegaly built construction and then
want you to fix it bs. Ever watch the construction of them in depth
rebar if any not tied properly wire mesh if any not installed properly
it will crack in a few years just from thermals sorry you had to be
caught in the 22catch.

 

[LightningLoader]

Outrigger pads

John,

The first thing to do if make sure that your actual outrigger feet are as big as possible so that the weight is distributed over a wider suface.

We use the bumpers from unloading docs as outrigger pads if people request something extra. Here's a link so that you can see what I'm talking about:

http://petersenind.com/models/options/outpads.html

-B

 

[LightningLoader]

Don't try to pick the truck up with the outriggers.

Just a note, equipment ratings are often set with the outriggers fully extended and the front tires off of the ground. I know this to be true at least with grapple trucks, but not for sure on other wheeled loaders. Just keep in mind that by not fully extending your outriggers you are reducing your stability and rated lift capacity is no longer applicable.

 

[mckeetree]

Just a note, equipment ratings are often set with the outriggers fully extended and the front tires off of the ground. I know this to be true at least with grapple trucks, but not for sure on other wheeled loaders. Just keep in mind that by not fully extending your outriggers you are reducing your stability and rated lift capacity is no longer applicable.

Yea, but he was talking about a bucket truck. I didn't mean to just put a little weight on crane or grapple outriggers.

 

[Rftreeman]

with a bucket truck, i never take the wheels off the ground even with a rear mount with 4 outriggers, if you are on such a bad slope and need the tires off the ground then that is not very safe and maybe the tree should be climbed. the riggers are there to keep the truck stable and from rolling, not to suport all the weight. can't tell you how many times we had guys break drive ways or slide down them because they where sloped bad and the truck rolled over the wheel chocks because the operator put all the weight on the front by booming over the front of the truck with the front down hill.

 

[ropensaddle]

with a bucket truck, i never take the wheels off the ground even with a rear mount with 4 outriggers, if you are on such a bad slope and need the tires off the ground then that is not very safe and maybe the tree should be climbed. the riggers are there to keep the truck stable and from rolling, not to suport all the weight. can't tell you how many times we had guys break drive ways or slide down them because they where sloped bad and the truck rolled over the wheel chocks because the operator put all the weight on the front by booming over the front of the truck with the front down hill.

+1 actually on a lot of trucks they are mostly for
relieving stress on the springs my bucket will hold itself up no
outriggers on level ground but a spring breaking and oooops!
I never go high enough to create unstable condition and don't
mind working leaning and have been on some good angles.
Usually prefer to work from the rear of my rear mounted
high ranger so front gives anchor weight rather than from the
side but not possible every time.

 

[l2edneck]

I used an old asplund lr45 for years...never a prob....

then i switched to a rear mount with 4 riggers,2 years later i broke my first drive way,I was pissed.

I never broke one in almost 12 years,then one day BAM.....

sure i fell thru a few sewer drains and septic tanks but damn,driveways here are spose to be 6 in thick Min.

Just make em sign a waiver....

GL Bro.....

 

[Timbersports]

The outriggers are designed to lift the truck if needed. We always lift the rear until tires just clear the ground on all our 75wh rigs. This does a couple of things, it gives the outriggers the spread they need to work properly and makes sure you are not working on a barely set rigger. We use a high grade aluminum plate that measures 24" square, 1/2" thick to set up on. They were quite expensive. Not had a problem as of today. There are so many different types of arial lift trucks. The standing weight on our 75s is about 20,000 lbs.

 

[ropensaddle]

The outriggers are designed to lift the truck if needed. We always lift the rear until tires just clear the ground on all our 75wh rigs. This does a couple of things, it gives the outriggers the spread they need to work properly and makes sure you are not working on a barely set rigger. We use a high grade aluminum plate that measures 24" square, 1/2" thick to set up on. They were quite expensive. Not had a problem as of today. There are so many different types of arial lift trucks. The standing weight on our 75s is about 20,000 lbs.

I disagree that stresses the attachments more than necessary
I prefer to stiffen the body but not lift the wheels off the ground.

 

[Menchhofer]

Altec recommends when lowering outriggers, only raise the truck high enough to take the bubble out of the tires. the outriggers are only a part of the total support of the lift. The truck tires, frame and body also are needed for proper safe use of the lift.