Who cares if the guide bar is any good...

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I am making a sign that says "sharpening chainsaw chains" I'll set by the road an Ill be a millionaire - you wait and see!

I agree you may need a helper when you get busy.

I never thought my firewood business would take off but it did. In the off season I sharpened chains, squared bars, sold files besides recycled junk at the flea market on weekends
 
Good looking bars and saws.

I always search for deals on bars/chains and end up with basic to midgrade bars. One exception to that was the 28" Tsumura I bought for the 8500 which will only be used for falling/bucking large Norway pines.

The local fleet supply is clearancing out all of their Trilink bars and chains and going strictly to Oregon/Stihl/Husqvarna components so I will probably pick up a bunch from them. Bought five 3/8" full chisel chains last week and my total was 38 bucks.
 
You guys are fussy.. home depot has all those 140 dollar pro grade saws. Like poulan .. and weed eater. Dont know why you would spend more than that. You can drop a 32 inch tree with that 140 dollar 12 inch bar saw.. provided your still young when you start.
 
Good looking saws.

You can drop a 32” diameter tree with a 21” bar/$140 saw? I danced around a lot of falling trees when they circled on the stump. Don’t worry about a barber chair? I’m big like a 300# football player, I’m in-shape back then and fast. I admit I had a few barber chair trees in my cutting carrier.

On my 2100/2101 saws I ran mainly 24” bars. In ct we have some bigger trees the farther we go in the forest. Nothing like the west coast but 4’/5’ diameter even bigger.
At the saw mill it took every inch of my 385xp with a 32” bar cutting from both sides.

I always figured to match the power head, bar length to the diameter of the tree being felled. I took it as the bar length being very important? Each power head comes with info on what’s the maximum bar length it could handle?
 
My 20" Cannon is a rip bar (not cheap) for my Granberg mini mill, ill do some measurements and post it back to you in a few minutes, I ordered it with two Sthil rip chains.
Thx for the measurements

so when I go on their website the only milling bars they have are double sided for two saws, which is what I do not want. Do they make a ripping bar that doesn’t need two chainsaws or a goofy handle on the end for another person?
 
Huskybill.. i was making a joke.. dropping a big tree is about your skill more than the saw.. but i have neighbors that occasionally will buy the 120 dollar cheap saw... not know how to mix fuel or tension the chain.. or fill the oiler.. or start the saw. The one thing they always know is that they have the skills to drop and cut up 28 inch 70 foot trees that fall out over or into the river i live on.. as though running a saw on actual level ground is not often tricky enough.. i saw a neighbor with his new home depot 14 inch saw standing in a ten foot rowboat reaching high over his head trying to cut off a 30 foot plus tree while barely able to stand up. I did the neighbor thing and told him the cost of a pro... would be quite expensive, but cheaper than the estate laywer and funeral and medical bills.. that would likely occur.


So i was kidding about the saw and cutting.. sorry if you just thought i was crazy.. not saying that is also not one possible reasonable observation.
 
Good looking saws.

You can drop a 32” diameter tree with a 21” bar/$140 saw? I danced around a lot of falling trees when they circled on the stump. Don’t worry about a barber chair? I’m big like a 300# football player, I’m in-shape back then and fast. I admit I had a few barber chair trees in my cutting carrier.

On my 2100/2101 saws I ran mainly 24” bars. In ct we have some bigger trees the farther we go in the forest. Nothing like the west coast but 4’/5’ diameter even bigger.
At the saw mill it took every inch of my 385xp with a 32” bar cutting from both sides.

I always figured to match the power head, bar length to the diameter of the tree being felled. I took it as the bar length being very important? Each power head comes with info on what’s the maximum bar length it could handle?

I really want a 24" bar for the 7910, it would suit a 24" perfectly to my preferences but it will have to wait for the chain sharpening business to take up first... I need money for bread and coffee mostly now :rolleyes:
 
Thx for the measurements

so when I go on their website the only milling bars they have are double sided for two saws, which is what I do not want. Do they make a ripping bar that doesn’t need two chainsaws or a goofy handle on the end for another person?

Not sure if this is especially made for a particular milling device or if the author recommends it for a particular milling device, but this guy do know what he's talking about.
Freely translated by a collaboration between google translate and me;
CSB-H1-20-50-H
Cannon guide bar H1 20" 50cm 1.3mm/050, 71 joints (3/8)
20" (50cm) single steel guide bar from Cannon Bars in Vancouver Canada. Very durable guide bar for the Lennartsfors (Jonsered) chain saw mill. Hardened (interchangeable) tip without sprocket. Fits all chain divisions (0.325 -3/8 etc.) The guide bar mount also fits Husqvarna / Jonsered with 09 guide bar mount (above 60 cc)
The best chain has product number WK1071 (Stihl rip chain)
https://antonstimber.mamutweb.com/Shop/Search?q=csb H1&page=1

I wouldn't pick this one for dancing around the woods, it makes the saw feel notably heavy.
 

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