Will removing this large branch hurt a live oak?

[Xamu]

Hey you all, I have a large cluster of oaks in my back yard and as you can see by the picture they are crowding this one and all the weight is on the same side as my home. Here in Louisiana I am constantly afraid that a storm will cause it to fall on the house. I've had some people tell me that because the roots are intertwined it will probably never fall and others have told me I should be worried.

I'd love your thoughts on that, but my main question is would it be OK for me to remove this large branch that is contributing the most to the weight on that side? When should I do it and should I coat the cut with anything to protect it?

 

[Jed1124]

It depend on what you mean by "OK". For the long term health of the tree (if it is a tree you would like to retain long term) it is not a good idea. End weight reduction pruning by someone qualified to do it would be a much better option.
It does look like there is some horizontal cracking on the lower trunk of the tree, the soil is severely compacted, and the predominant lean is toward the house.
I would have a certified arborist come out an look at it and make an assessment. As much as I am for preservation, there is a lot going on there that someone can not make an assessment of from a picture.
Sealants or wound dressing is not used anymore unless you are in an area that has Oak Wilt. If you do have Oak Wilt the tree should be pruned in the winter, but I don't know how much of a winter you have in Louisiana.

 

[Seachaser]

Cut it back to the branch collar. It will be healed by this time next year.

 

[Del_]

Cut it back to the branch collar. It will be healed by this time next year.

No way.

To start off, trees don't heal.

Second, no way is that tree going to close over in one year. It will be an entrance for decay.

 

[Howsitgoineh]

It depend on what you mean by "OK". For the long term health of the tree (if it is a tree you would like to retain long term) it is not a good idea. End weight reduction pruning by someone qualified to do it would be a much better option.
It does look like there is some horizontal cracking on the lower trunk of the tree, the soil is severely compacted, and the predominant lean is toward the house.
I would have a certified arborist come out an look at it and make an assessment. As much as I am for preservation, there is a lot going on there that someone can not make an assessment of from a picture.
Sealants or wound dressing is not used anymore unless you are in an area that has Oak Wilt. If you do have Oak Wilt the tree should be pruned in the winter, but I don't know how much of a winter you have in Louisiana.

+1 for pruning to reduce weight of the limb. Removing large sections of a tree like this can and will likely cause further damage down the road - as Del said, "an entrance for decay"

 

[Xamu]

Thanks everyone!

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Cut it back to the branch collar. It will be healed by this time next year.

ummmh, no

 

[POGuy]

ummmh, no

It depend on what you mean by "OK". For the long term health of the tree (if it is a tree you would like to retain long term) it is not a good idea. End weight reduction pruning by someone qualified to do it would be a much better option.
It does look like there is some horizontal cracking on the lower trunk of the tree, the soil is severely compacted, and the predominant lean is toward the house.
I would have a certified arborist come out an look at it and make an assessment. As much as I am for preservation, there is a lot going on there that someone can not make an assessment of from a picture.
Sealants or wound dressing is not used anymore unless you are in an area that has Oak Wilt. If you do have Oak Wilt the tree should be pruned in the winter, but I don't know how much of a winter you have in Louisiana.

I would remove that tree completely. The one next to it seems to have better form, not as much lean, and will thrive without the competition with little loss of shade as a whole. Not much would be left after removing the two limbs going toward the house anyway.

 

[Jed1124]

I would remove that tree completely. The one next to it seems to have better form, not as much lean, and will thrive without the competition with little loss of shade as a whole. Not much would be left after removing the two limbs going toward the house anyway.

Possibly, but I wasn't ready to make that call on this particular tree from those pictures.
Removal can also have an adverse effect on an adjacent tree, if they grew together at relatively the same time. Tree growth adapts to wind shear. When one is removed, wind load dynamics can radically change to the other next to it.
Just things that need to be considered. I am not saying that is 100% the case in this scenario.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Possibly, but I wasn't ready to make that call on this particular tree from those pictures.
Removal can also have an adverse effect on an adjacent tree, if they grew together at relatively the same time. Tree growth adapts to wind shear. When one is removed, wind load dynamics can radically change to the other next to it.
Just things that need to be considered. I am not saying that is 100% the case in this scenario.

Yeah, more pics of the cluster would help. Honestly, it just looks like a typical post oak clump... they generally work together and take hurricanes like they were nothing... they're native, after all. I will agree that messing with that clump can change the dynamics.

 

[thenne1713]

Hey you all, I have a large cluster of oaks in my back yard and as you can see by the picture they are crowding this one and all the weight is on the same side as my home. Here in Louisiana I am constantly afraid that a storm will cause it to fall on the house. I've had some people tell me that because the roots are intertwined it will probably never fall and others have told me I should be worried.

I'd love your thoughts on that, but my main question is would it be OK for me to remove this large branch that is contributing the most to the weight on that side? When should I do it and should I coat the cut with anything to protect it?

First, removal will do wonders for grass growth, but my oaks were 75+yrs old, 5ft+ dia. and having one removed w/ crane some yrs back, climber was talking about how he dead-wooded one similar to mine a few weeks earlier, and the next day, it laid down onto the house, next to HO in his recliner... and he survived.

 

[thenne1713]

First, removal will do wonders for grass growth, but my oaks were 75+yrs old, 5ft+ dia. and having one removed w/ crane some yrs back, climber was talking about how he dead-wooded one similar to mine a few weeks earlier, and the next day, it laid down onto the house, next to HO in his recliner... and he survived. You often do NOT see the root rot/ weak root system on fully green trees.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

First, removal will do wonders for grass growth, but my oaks were 75+yrs old, 5ft+ dia. and having one removed w/ crane some yrs back, climber was talking about how he dead-wooded one similar to mine a few weeks earlier, and the next day, it laid down onto the house, next to HO in his recliner... and he survived.

These anecdotal stories from homeowners are always entertaining, but don't really help the OP make an informed decision. There are many ways for a trained arborist to detect root rot and weak root systems, but it requires an on-site visit.

 

[thenne1713]

No way.

To start off, trees don't heal.

Second, no way is that tree going to close over in one year. It will be an entrance for decay.

UNDER A CERTAIN DIAMETER, in a healthy tree, they will heal over, but not sure most will close in just one year; can vary much by species?

 

[TheJollyLogger]

UNDER A CERTAIN DIAMETER, in a healthy tree, they will heal over, but not sure most will close in just one year; can vary much by species?

No, trees do not heal. I'm not sure who told you that or where you read it, but it is incorrect.

They will grow callous wood which will help compartmentalize and encapsulate the wood, but the original wound will always remain, and this process certainly won't be complete on a post oak within a year.

 

[alanbaker]

A 7/16" tap in a healthy sugar maple will callus over in one year. The larger the branch being removed the more years it with take, given the cut was made at the branch collar. I have removed some branches, 6" plus in diameter, that callused over quickly and evenly, and others that I am embarrassed show anyone. But trees want to callus over any wound in the bark. Look at any hollow tree with an opening and see how the tree continuously each growing season, tries to fill that void. The bark (new growth, callus) tends to curl into the hollow and towards each side of the opening. And if the two edges do meet, they grow together and become one. I find that amazing, but that's me.
I have made any factually errors, please correct. Just finishing a bottle of hard cider.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

A 7/16" tap in a healthy sugar maple will callus over in one year. The larger the branch being removed the more years it with take, given the cut was made at the branch collar. I have removed some branches, 6" plus in diameter, that callused over quickly and evenly, and others that I am embarrassed show anyone. But trees want to callus over any wound in the bark. Look at any hollow tree with an opening and see how the tree continuously each growing season, tries to fill that void. The bark (new growth, callus) tends to curl into the hollow and towards each side of the opening. And if the two edges do meet, they grow together and become one. I find that amazing, but that's me.
I have made any factually errors, please correct. Just finishing a bottle of hard cider.View attachment 1161386

Yeah, maples definitely compartmentalize and callus faster than oaks