Wind Damage Repair

[thacket]

Greetings:

My town of Palacios just got hit by hurricane Claudette; many trees down and damaged. I need some information on reshaping large wind damaged Pecan trees. I plan on doing the major reshaping during the winter. Also, the only way I can access the trees is with spikes and belt. Is there any special things to avoid?
Are there any special publications would help? any help would be appreciated.

Thanks to All,
John

 

[Dan F]

Brian- you ought to put a disclaimer in your sig file, explaining why you respond the way you do to homeowners that want to do work they really shouldn't. I think you catch many of them off guard! I understand though.

John,
The reason you should not use spikes is because they cause damage to the tree that the tree most likely will not ever recover from. The spikes dig into the cambium layer behind the bark, which is the growing layer of the trunk. The only time it is acceptable to use spikes is for removals and in an emergency rescue situation.

The other reason is that if you only have spikes and a belt, you don't have enough equipment to operate safely in the tree.


Dan

 

[NeTree]

Dan is dead-on correct. Spikes cause lots of holes for insects and fungi to get past the trees protective layers, and will likely kill the rees, not to mention they look god-awful.

You sound like you really want to save those trees, and that is commendable. I should add that for what you'd have to spend on the proper (read as SAFE) equipment, you could hire an arborist, and learn a few tips from him for next time.

Not trying to discourage you; merely encouraging safety and good arboricultural practices.

 

[MasterBlaster]

If you have NO EXPERIENCE doing treework, you REALLY SHOULD HIRE A PROFESSIONAL. I'm not trying to sound like a smarta$$, but severe injury/DEATH could result in a millisecond. If your lucky you could be looking at stitches, or your friends/family could be looking at your HEADSTONE.

 

[thacket]

Hello to you all,

Thank you for your kind warnings. I am a designer of sample panels and analyzers for an engineer at a chemical company. To me, safety is first and formost; no exceptions. Thank you, also, for the warnings about spikes harming the trees. While I am no arborist, I have lots of limb and tree time climbing and pruning. Heights don't bother me, falling does. I have great respect for the power of gravity and the great masses and forces in a tree. I can climb the trees safely; and if I can't, i won't. The main problem is that it looks like the only way to cut out the damage is to crown the tree. I really don't want to do that, but I see no way around it. Is there a preferred way to crown as a last resort? I would assume that you would have to trim for several years after that to balance and thin the smaller branches that will grow in after crowning. Any information would be appreciated.

Thanks,
John

 

[TREETX]

Crown?? Top??

If you have climbed before, read up and see how to do it without spikes. If not then why do anything to the trees at all. Spike damage will probably negate any benefits from attempts at crown restoration.

I used to work in the analytical chem field in the H-town area.

 

[thacket]

Hi,

Okay fellows, I'm not trying bug you. I already decided not to use spikes as per your recommendations. the trees are heavily damaged on one side with splits in the main branches and large bark peels. To remove the damage and balance the tree, I will have to cut a lot of wood, essentially topping (or crowning as we say around here; right, wrong or indifferent) the trees. My wife and I love these trees and want them to be healthy for a long time to come. I have thinned limbs in the past with no problems. We just want to know if there is a preferred professional arborist practice in a situation like this. If there is, where can I get good information about it. I figured that this would be a good place to start. I still think it is. Thanks.

John

 

[MasterBlaster]

The proper way to 'top' a tree nowadays is a method of crown reduction called "drop crotching". You try to remove the limb back to another limb that is at least 1/3 the size of the original limb. Sometimes you can't do this, but you should allways try to. You don't have to paint the cuts; however, if you suspect any type of insect infestation, Lindain or some type of bug spray should be applied weekly for maybe 4 to 6 weeks.

 

[thacket]

Hi MB:

I did a search on drop crotching and found tons of information about proper technique. This looks like good solution to my problem. Thanks to all who responded and especially MasterBlaster.

Best to All,
John

 

[Guy Meilleur]

Originally posted by thacket
Hi MB:

I did a search on drop crotching and found tons of information about proper technique. This looks like good solution to my problem.

In the April issue of Tree Care Industry magazine was an article about restoring damaged trees by using heading cuts to nodes. Drop-crotching can result in more trunk decay, structural imbalance and other problems, so don't rely on it exclusively.

Claudette took too much of your trees--save all you can!

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

I agree with Guy, less is more!

 

[Dan F]

if you suspect any type of insect infestation, Lindain or some type of bug spray should be applied weekly for maybe 4 to 6 weeks.

Perhaps I should point out that Lindain is no longer available. It hasn't been for a couple of years now.

If you are concerned about insects, liquid Sevin is probably better chemical to use, from a homeowner standpoint. Sevin has to be ingested to work, so don't spray it on them and expect them to just fall off dead. It has about a week long residual (barring rain), so re-apply as needed.

From a commercial standpoint, Talstar probably would work. In our case, it's worked too well for 2 years in a row at one particular site. Used Talstar to treat bagworms on junipers that we would like to see dead. Basically just waved it around as we were spraying. I'll be darned if it didn't kill most or all of them.....


Dan