wind

[borat]

Not an expert woodsman by any standards but I have cut a few trees in my day. Nothing real big. Maybe 18" diameter poplar approx. 60' tall. Most trees I've cut are considerably smaller. I do most of my work alone so, I try to keep risks to a minimum. It's bad enough to be using a piece of equipment that can easily maim or kill you, let alone work in weather conditions that contribute to mitigate safety. Accordingly, I won't cut wood in any high wind conditions particularly if it's not blowing the tree in the direction I want it to fall. Most of my cutting is to remove trees that pose a threat or danger to people or structures. That typically is near buildings or roads so controlling the fall of the tree is usually very important.

As previously stated, I'm not a woodcutter by trade but I do enjoy felling trees when necessary. I noted a term used by one participant where he recommended "boring the tree" prior to felling it. What exactly does that mean and how is it done?

Below is a picture of a tree that was blown down. It's a bit confusing to look at because it's actually resting on the stump of another tree that had also been blown down. Originally, the suspended tree (approx. 16" dai. at the stump) had been blown over and blocking the road. Someone cut the tree approx. 6' from the roots. The stump pulled back to it's side of the road and the balance of the tree levered on the other stump popped up into the air to remain that way for over a year. After a year or so, the crown of the tree lost weight and branches which allowed the overhanging portion of the tree to pull down, blocking the road again.

A fellow camper couldn't get past it and called on me to cut it out of the way. I got quite a bit of firewood from that tree.

View attachment 204123

 

[lone wolf]

How strong of wind before you stop felling trees?

Al

Why hell it depends if its blowing the way you want the tree to go or not!

 

[stumpy75]

As previously stated, I'm not a woodcutter by trade but I do enjoy felling trees when necessary. I noted a term used by one participant where he recommended "boring the tree" prior to felling it. What exactly does that mean and how is it done?

[video=youtube_share;ZoameGbMVt8]http://youtu.be/ZoameGbMVt8[/video]

This is one example, and it's not always done just this way...

 

[borat]

Thanks for that Stumpy.

What exactly are the benefits of making a boring cut? I assume it would be of more use on a larger tree but I don't understand how it effects the felling process be it ease of cutting or control of direction of the fall.

 

[stumpy75]

You end up leaving two chunks of wood uncut, the hinge and the piece on the back. Then, by wedging it in the bore cut, you decrease the possibility of it going any way but the way you want it to and also possible pinching the saw on the backcut. By doing it this way, you end up with a lot more control, and less possibility that the tree will settle back, especially if it's a little windy. The downside is that it takes longer to make this cut(usually).

All that being said, I usually notch and drop most trees, without the bore cut. However, I'll bore them if I think there is a possibility of it pinching the saw. Depends on the wind, the weight and the lean of the tree...

 

[borat]

OK. Now I understand. The bore cut goes sideways between the wedge and the felling cut. Considering most of my cuts are near buildings, that could be a very useful technique for me. I've got a few 60+ poplars in my back yard within striking distance of the house that need to come down soon. I may just have to resort to that method.

Thanks again.

 

[spidermonkey17]

OK. Now I understand. The bore cut goes sideways between the wedge and the felling cut. Considering most of my cuts are near buildings, that could be a very useful technique for me. I've got a few 60+ poplars in my back yard within striking distance of the house that need to come down soon. I may just have to resort to that method.

Thanks again.

Whoa Whoa Whoa, just because you can see a example of something like this on YouTube does not mean you should be doing it. Just my 2 cents, this type of cut takes a little bit of knowledge of working with a saw the chance for kick back is greater when doing this and most people do not use this cut when felling a tree, unless there is a chance of the saw setting back on the itself, or the saw is not large enough to back a proper back cut, so by bore cutting you can get around having a smaller bar and making a safe back cut. Learn from someone that has made this cut and i would learn from a fallen piece already on the ground. Just be safe out there.

 

[unclemoustache]

I felled a big one last November during high wind. I shouldn't have done it, and I'm amazed that I even survived. It was about 20 feet from my house (you can tell where this is going), and I didn't even have any ropes on it - stupid, but I was in a hurry. Hardly made much of a notch, and when I began the backcut, the wind gusted and blew that thing right back on top of me, and right toward the house. I didn't have time to get out of the way, and the trunk landed on my right arm, leg and side. Dang near wet my pants, for it could have crushed me, but we took it inside and put our Christmas decorations on it, and then took it to the dump in January. Man, I'll never cut in wind again! Kids were laughing and everything. The therapy was expensive, too.

 

[lfnh]

Ahh, the therapy.
Care to expand on the details of said therapy ?

 

[stumpy75]

Whoa Whoa Whoa, just because you can see a example of something like this on YouTube does not mean you should be doing it. Just my 2 cents, this type of cut takes a little bit of knowledge of working with a saw the chance for kick back is greater when doing this and most people do not use this cut when felling a tree, unless there is a chance of the saw setting back on the itself, or the saw is not large enough to back a proper back cut, so by bore cutting you can get around having a smaller bar and making a safe back cut. Learn from someone that has made this cut and i would learn from a fallen piece already on the ground. Just be safe out there.

I agree with this completely... Especially the bore cut(major kickback territory). It isn't something you want to try without some instruction from someone. I posted the YouTube because of the question about bore cutting. I'm not suggesting someone do it, unless they have some training.

Stay safe out there!

 

[Whitespider]

You guys that aren't cutting for a living have nothing to prove. You won't get fired if you leave the tree for another day and your reputation won't suffer. You don't need to cut in windy conditions. But...if your balls are bigger than your brain and if you feel the need to validate your manhood by doing something incredibly stupid so you can brag about it later, go ahead and take a chance.

Well maybe it has something to do with balls, but it's certainly not about bragging rights...

You're correct, those of us that don't fall trees for a living don't have to worry about getting fired, but need is relative. We need to work other jobs that take 5 or 6 days of the week away from cutting and that leaves (at best) two days of the week, usually on weekends. Those two days can get eaten up by other chores, family responsibilities and such that also need to get done, so when there's time for converting trees into winter heating fuel... well then, you need to use that time, no other way around it. And if you live where the wind blows, like out here on the plains, chances are it will also be blowing next weekend. Where I live the windy season and firewood harvesting season coincide, namely fall, winter and spring... with fall and spring being the worst for wind. If I waited for a non-windy weekend to fall my trees... well, chances are I'd need to wait until next July.

Still, I do what I can to minimize problems... such as doing the actual falling early in the morning (if possible) before the wind builds into a howl, and I fall with the wind (or as close as I can to with the wind). If'n ya' live where the wind blows... well, it-is-what-it-is, ya' just half'ta learn how to deal with it... it ain't about manhood or bragging rights.

 

[Dalmatian90]

Just my 2 cents, this type of cut takes a little bit of knowledge of working with a saw the chance for kick back is greater when doing this and most people do not use this cut when felling a tree, unless there is a chance of the saw setting back on the itself, or the saw is not large enough to back a proper back cut, so by bore cutting you can get around having a smaller bar and making a safe back cut.

I've seen many references that also recommend the bore cut for forward leaners to avoid barber chairs.

I would agree it's definitely not a newbie cut to make.

I've personally only used it a few times, I only cut a modest ~4 cords per year. But the times I have, on difficult trees or terrain, it was impressive how much more control I had over the traditional notch and back cut.

Because I don't make these specialty cuts very often, I print out directions I find on the 'net and stuff them in my chainsaw toolbox that I usually bring with me. Lets me review how things are supposed to be done on my tailgate.

Plus a willingness to know my limitations -- some from personal safety that I won't do anywhere, and some that I'd be willing to cut deep in the woodlot but wouldn't tackle near buildings or roads just in case they fall odd on me.

 

[AIM]

I'll play the wind quite often to help a tree go the way I want. Especially fence rows. It's great when you have a stiiff wind blowing the way you want. You can lay the trees out one by one in the field. I will though say that 25+ mph was about the highest I've ever cut in.
I've been hunting in 30-40 winds in the woods and will admit I get a touch nervous. I've seen many a branch fall while back in the woods. To be running a loud chainsaw in those conditions would make me a touch nervous due to not being able to hear what is going on around me.
I gotta believe that with the dead ash ALL OVER the woods it's gonna be a bit treacherous over the next few years as those limbs dry out and get brittle..

 

[slowp]

I went to a class where they teach the bore cut, AKA plunge cut, AKA poke cut :smile2:. You don't bore straight in with the tip. You start in with the lower part of the tip. That reduces the kickback and fight.
We were shown to put in notch, then figure out how much hinge to leave...10% of the diameter was used, that way you don't need a calculator, or maybe you do. Then you go in and make the bore, leaving a strap on the back. You may put in a wedge then. It was explained that you can then kind of control the speed of the tree by cutting the back strap off short or long, below your other cuts. This would take a lot of experimenting (practice) to figure out. I only did one tree, then came home and did another. It worked beautifully, but two trees are not enough to tell.

Most of what I'm cutting is too small for that, unless I bought a baby saw.

The class was the GOL and was geared to beginners. Safety was the main theme. Some of the folks there had not started a saw before. It wasn't targeted to make expert fallers out of anybody.

Wind was discussed. I won't fool around with wind, but the instructor, a Wisconsin production faller, (who couldn't pronounce Oregon correctly:smile2 said that wind can be your friend, up to a point. Gusts are the worst and if the wind direction changes on you, you are however Wisconsinites say "Chi Chis arriba." That's my wording.

Nobody was cutting on the day I had to hustle up to a ridgetop after a hooktender. He talked about the need to embrace the weather. The rain was blowing in sideways. He told me I should look up, and see how the trees were blowing. I told him I couldn't do that. I would get scared and head back down the hill. We finished up and I headed back to the truck. On the way out, there was a big tree across the road. I couldn't get it out of the way, so took the other way out..there was one. So, even if you quit because of the wind, you may have to cut your way home. So save some saw gas for that.

 

[borat]

I agree with this completely... Especially the bore cut(major kickback territory). It isn't something you want to try without some instruction from someone. I posted the YouTube because of the question about bore cutting. I'm not suggesting someone do it, unless they have some training.

Stay safe out there!

No need to worry guys.

I was unfamiliar with the term "bore cut" not the actual practice of bore cutting. I've never used a bore cut to drop a tree but I have made more than a few bore cuts using a chain saw to cut square holes in logs/timbers etc.

Thank you for your concern nonetheless.

 

[s219]

The only issue I encounter with boring is on medium size trees (say 8-16" diameter), where there really isn't enough room to do it even with a narrow bar -- you'd either have to shortchange the hinge or backstrap. So that's where a Coos Bay works great, since all material is removed working from the outside of the cutting plane.

 

[slowp]

The only issue I encounter with boring is on medium size trees (say 8-16" diameter), where there really isn't enough room to do it even with a narrow bar -- you'd either have to shortchange the hinge or backstrap. So that's where a Coos Bay works great, since all material is removed working from the outside of the cutting plane.

Yes, I also have used that cut, once, on a small, heavy leaner. No wind though. The tree was in my way.
And the cut worked beautifully.

 

[Dalmatian90]

So, even if you quit because of the wind, you may have to cut your way home. So save some saw gas for that.

You know, that's a nice bit of advice Slowp.

Years ago I cut a large yard tree down for a friend, originally a pasture oak before it was in a development, well over 20" as I had to make all the cuts from both sides. Very easy tree to drop.

After it was on the ground, my saw chucked a sprocket C-clip or something silly like that...only time I've had to take a saw into a shop to be repaired.

That was my only saw at the time, and made me realize I would've been up the creek if I had gotten the tree mostly cut and the sole saw died. In a woodlot, OK. In a development where it could hit a sidewalk if a stiff wind came up...not OK.

Trying to be prepared for the odd things that might break or go wrong when cutting "critical trees" is a good idea. I always make sure I have two running saws with me now before I tackle anything I'm worried about.

The only issue I encounter with boring is on medium size trees (say 8-16" diameter), where there really isn't enough room to do it even with a narrow bar -- you'd either have to shortchange the hinge or backstrap. So that's where a Coos Bay works great, since all material is removed working from the outside of the cutting plane.

EXCELLENT description of one reason to chose one over the other s219.

In fact, I'm looking at a severe leaner out my office window right now which perfectly fits that big-but-not-quite-big-enough for bore cut criteria...maybe 15, 16". Think I have a candidate for the Coos Bay this winter

 

[litefoot]

really depends on the situation, i have the advantage of being a tree climber by trade, but even that i draw the line at a certain wind speed. Turned down a white pine that was about 100' that needed to come down and called my boss and said i would do it i just would prefer a different day to do it, (would have been fun for the ride of being that high up, but that thing was rolling back and forth pretty good when the gust came through , just to many things could go wrong.

.

LOL.

My brothers and I used to climb the highest loblolly pine we could find in SC whenever the wind started blowing. Yes, it was quite a fun (but often scary) ride.

 

[fast*st]

This is one example, and it's not always done just this way...

Does the large amount of powder coming off the bar make anyone else want to cry?