Wiring an OWB (Shaver)

[urhstry]

Shaver's installation guide shows 12/3 wire running to the pump and the fan so that when the fan turns on the pump starts up. I want to run the pump all the time so how should I wire it? Will I overload the neutral by running the pump constantly? Looking for all suggestions.

 

[fletcher0780]

Shaver's installation guide shows 12/3 wire running to the pump and the fan so that when the fan turns on the pump starts up. I want to run the pump all the time so how should I wire it? Will I overload the neutral by running the pump constantly? Looking for all suggestions.

The pump uses very little power, you can run it 24/7 with no worries about overloading the neutral. I installed my pump inside since most of them are not rated for outdoor use, you might want to consider it if yours isn't installed yet.

 

[LTREES]

The pump uses very little power, you can run it 24/7 with no worries about overloading the neutral. I installed my pump inside since most of them are not rated for outdoor use, you might want to consider it if yours isn't installed yet.

I just got a CB and there is a side door where the pumps go. do you think if we insulate it well, the heat from the pump will keep it out of danger of the elements?

LT...

 

[LTREES]

OH, forgot to add that I have a 014 taco and it runs 24/7

 

[jdboy9]

Make sure to run that on a 2P 20A breaker.

I actually don't know what you are trying to do but if you want to have two circuits from one wire then what I said above applies. That way when you share the neutral it won't get overloaded.

 

[twincam]

You should say there needs to 220 volt potential between the two ungrouned conductors, as not to exceed the rating of the grounded conductor. Same thing, use a two pole breaker

 

[projectsho89]

You should say there needs to 220 volt potential between the two ungrouned conductors, as not to exceed the rating of the grounded conductor. Same thing, use a two pole breaker

WTF??????

The pump pulls less than an amp, the lights and the rest maybe another amp. Worst case when I figured it out was a bit over 3 amps.

There's absolutely no need to be concerned about overloading the neutral or the ground. There is no need for a DP breaker nor is there an need to even think about bringing 220/240 VAC into the discussion.


All you need is one protected (15A) HOT circuit for the lights and, if you are going to run it continuously, the pump. The other sometimes hot wire for the draft fan is only hot when the air handler blower or a zone circulator is on and heat is being demanded.

If you want to run the pump all the time, just connect it to your protected HOT wire in parallel with the lighting circuit in the boiler.

Steve

 

[twincam]

were just talking electrical principals, did you sit on a hot coal or what.

 

[fletcher0780]

I just got a CB and there is a side door where the pumps go. do you think if we insulate it well, the heat from the pump will keep it out of danger of the elements?

LT...

All the manufacturers say it's ok to have the pump on the OWB, but I like having it in my basement. If anything goes wrong, I won't be out in the cold replacing it.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Easy now!!

1. Are you talking about a fan mounted on the boiler for draft induction? If so, fan (seemingly) would cycle with the aquastat, turning on when water temp gets at/below a certain setpoint...example: A CB opens the damper door when water temp.reaches a point 10 deg. below the supply water temp. setpoint (differential).

2. If this is the case,and you want to run the pump 24/7, just wire it direct from the incoming hot. A separate switch to the pump would be wise, if a receptacle is not provided.
3. Also..look at the instructions, see if a separate ground rod is required at the boiler, if it is an OWB...that would be wise to do as well, and me thinks it is an NEC requirement.

 

[Scootermsp]

I agree

WTF??????

The pump pulls less than an amp, the lights and the rest maybe another amp. Worst case when I figured it out was a bit over 3 amps.

There's absolutely no need to be concerned about overloading the neutral or the ground. There is no need for a DP breaker nor is there an need to even think about bringing 220/240 VAC into the discussion.


All you need is one protected (15A) HOT circuit for the lights and, if you are going to run it continuously, the pump. The other sometimes hot wire for the draft fan is only hot when the air handler blower or a zone circulator is on and heat is being demanded.

If you want to run the pump all the time, just connect it to your protected HOT wire in parallel with the lighting circuit in the boiler.

Steve

You are 100% correct. As far as Central Boiler goes. Mine (No Fan) is labeled for a 3A fast blow fuse, It says to install a 5A fast blow if a draft fan is used. So there on a CB the Damper, lights, and fan together draw under 5A.

 

[jdboy9]

Just trying to point out the right direction to wire up that particular circuit. You can't wire, plumb, or build a house the way you want to if it isn't to code. Honestly I don't even know if running 2 circuits on a 12/3 is to code around my neck of the woods. If then next person in line buys it and uses it and something happens it can fall back on the previous owner.

 

[Scootermsp]

One Circuit

Just trying to point out the right direction to wire up that particular circuit. You can't wire, plumb, or build a house the way you want to if it isn't to code. Honestly I don't even know if running 2 circuits on a 12/3 is to code around my neck of the woods. If then next person in line buys it and uses it and something happens it can fall back on the previous owner.

I ran my 12/3 with only 1 circuit due to the need for a GFCI.opcorn:

 

[projectsho89]

Just trying to point out the right direction to wire up that particular circuit. You can't wire, plumb, or build a house the way you want to if it isn't to code. Honestly I don't even know if running 2 circuits on a 12/3 is to code around my neck of the woods. If then next person in line buys it and uses it and something happens it can fall back on the previous owner.

I built my own home, wired to NEC 2003 code after I passed the county's required tests.

There is no need to have the power to the outside unit on two separate branch circuits; to do so would require running a neutral out there for each. If there is sufficient capacity on the circuit that provides power for the inside-the-house stuff (in my case, the forced-air furnace's controls and blower), just run it off the same circuit. Simplifies emergency transfer switch operation if using a multi-circuited generator transfer switch, also.

I extended the blower power feed on one of the lines outside, the other is an extension of the branch circuit itself and will feed the pump and lighting circuit.


Steve

 

[mtfallsmikey]

I ran 12/3 to mine....split it before the boiler to power the floodlights in the woodshed/boiler area (it's schweet!). #14 would work, but it's a fair distance to the panel in my shop from there. Oversize/overkill never hurts with electro-issity!

 

[cfabe]

Generally speaking, you can run two circuits on a 12/3 (or 14/3), actually the code considers it a "multiwire branch circuit" not two seperate circuits. Why you'd want to do this for a wood boiler I have no idea.

For a wood boiler you do not need a two pole breaker.

You can run 3-conductor wire to the boiler if you want to control something on it from the house. The draft fan or the light for instance. Typicall you'd wire the black as constant hot and the red as switched power.

The boilers I am familiar with just need a 15A circuit powering them, and control the draft van via a thermostat or aquastat and the light via a switch.

14 gauge wire is perfectly adequate for the loads on a wood boiler even at long distances.

Overkill when talking about wire sizes will not hurt anything electrically speaking, however it will definately hurt your wallet. Copper is expensive!

 

[urhstry]

Good discussion here. I was going to wire my OWB with 12/3 that will turn on the fana nd pump at the same time FOR MY GARAGE, but a separate 12/2 line will be run for the main pump that will run 24/7 for the house heat(a HX). Other than that, i may tap off that 24/7 line for the factory mounted lights (Shaver). Will this work?

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Why shore it will work!....as far as my overkill, and OCD/anal retention with my wiring methods are concerned.....let's just say that I've seen the damage done when improper/undersized work is installed!

 

[Wirenut2266]

This post got very interesting in a hurry. Alot of good input, some bs. My opinion: 14/2 to the boiler and misc. stuff no problem. Only 12/2 if a looongggg run to get rid of voltage drop....The 14/3 or 12/3 option is not necessary in my opinion. The boiler has no real load on circuit at all. As far as a 2 pole breaker on a multiwire branch circuit it is not necessary. No where in code does it state to use 2-pole breakers on shared nuetrals. You can even put three circuits on a shared nuetral if you want, and still be safe if ye know what your doing......Bruce

 

[fletcher0780]

If your goal is to cycle your pump with demand, it would be much easier/cheaper if you'd install your pump in the basement, then simply run one circuit 14, 12, or even 10 wire to your boiler for lights, GFI outlet, blower, etc. Plus your pump would be in an environment for which it is designed.