Wood hauler debate

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I would not use anything less than a 4x4 dually. But I do haul some big loads. I look for big trunks that not many can cut and haul.

Minimum get a 4x4.

I agree with the 4x4 part, dually, not so much. Duals are good for pulling a LARGE trailer or haulin REALLY heavy, otherwise worthless as as tits on a boar hog. If you're going off road, the duals load up with mud, a 4x2 dually will get stuck on wet grass, 4x4 a lil better, but only slightly.
 
The 89 to 93 dodges are ruff ridding. On bad roads you should wear a helmet. They get better after 94.
THey got 'better' because they made them more like cars; cute little coil springs instead of leaf springs up front, wimpy little chain-drive aluminum transfer cases, rear springs that are more then half the length of the bed so it 'rides nice', but won't support a lot of weight without draggin' its' butt. Yes, the 89-93 1st gen trucks don't ride as nice. They're TRUCKS!

personaly i think they need to start making trucks like they useto, rough riding, manual windows, etc. a TRUCK, not these luxury cars with big tires and a bed like they started making in the 90's
Thank you!

Yes dump trailer works great! But even better if you use a truck that can pulled it and stop it while going 70+ mph down the interstate with 9,000 lbs of wood.
People seem to forget about the need to stop!

id atleast stick with the 12 valve, unless i could find a 97.5-02 that was P pumped... issues with the VP44 isnt worth the hassle.
One thing to remember with the Cummins engines after the 1st gen's is the issue with the '53 block'. On the left side of the motor, at the front and down near where the oil pan meets the block, if it has a large '53' cast into the block, RUN! Those particular motors have an issue with cracking at the cam bearings.

I had a 93 Dodge/Cummins that I bought brand new. Ran it for years and sold it in 2006 with 660,000 miles on it. Original engine and tranny, nothing had ever been apart. Got $6500 for it. Best truck I ever owned. If Ford had put the Cummins in their trucks back when Dodge did, I don't think Dodge and Chevy would still be making trucks!
 
I have an 02 3500 DHD Dually. Just keep in mind that parts for diesel are more expensive as well. And in my case so are all the other parts. Get a manual tranny. The transfer cases are the weak link in the drive-train. Take your time looking for one. If it is 4WD and the t-case has been replaced or rebuilt recently that is a plus.

I bought the truck for work and bought it for the engine and 6 speed manual tranny not the features.
 
THey got 'better' because they made them more like cars; cute little coil springs instead of leaf springs up front, wimpy little chain-drive aluminum transfer cases, rear springs that are more then half the length of the bed so it 'rides nice', but won't support a lot of weight without draggin' its' butt. Yes, the 89-93 1st gen trucks don't ride as nice. They're TRUCKS!

Thank you!

People seem to forget about the need to stop!

One thing to remember with the Cummins engines after the 1st gen's is the issue with the '53 block'. On the left side of the motor, at the front and down near where the oil pan meets the block, if it has a large '53' cast into the block, RUN! Those particular motors have an issue with cracking at the cam bearings.

I had a 93 Dodge/Cummins that I bought brand new. Ran it for years and sold it in 2006 with 660,000 miles on it. Original engine and tranny, nothing had ever been apart. Got $6500 for it. Best truck I ever owned. If Ford had put the Cummins in their trucks back when Dodge did, I don't think Dodge and Chevy would still be making trucks!

A 53 block 12v truck isn't anything to be afraid of. Pretty much just the ISB 24v trucks had problems with the 53 blocks.

Plenty of 12v 53 blocks out there, they just didn't leak like the ISB blocks did.
 
Everything you ever wanted to know about the Cummins 53 Block:

What is the "53" block?

The "53" comes from a casting number on the side of the block and is used to identify the problem blocks. Supposedly it affects about 100,000 blocks, but not only in Dodge Rams. Here is information regarding the castings from a thread on TDR:

1. Brazilian Blocks are cast by a company named "TUPY" and are marked such. They are identified with cast evolution numbers. #53's are TUPY's. #54 and later evolutions were improved to correct the block issues that the 53's had.
2. Mexican Blocks were made by "Teksid" these blocks to my knowledge never had a problem with cracking, as they are heavier duty by trait, but they did follow the evolutions and got thicker. These blocks do not have the 2 digit "cast number" embossed on the side, instead a series of numbers that are unidentifiable to me. The Mexican blocks were rumored to even be harder to machine do to a harder cast overall, basically better quality in my opinion.

Brazilian Tupys always seem to outnumber Mexican blocks during the ISB's production probably about 8 to 1. So basically if there is a pattern number its Brazilian, if there is a series of small numbers its Mexican.

The Mexican equivalent of a 56 pattern was the Heaviest ISB block of all. This means if you have a 2002 without a #56 on it and instead it has a series of numbers that are smaller and hard to identify, you got the the big boy!!!

Why the Worry?

Simply, the worry is that the block will crack. These blocks have thinner water jacket walls than other blocks so with coolant cavitation, corrosion, coolant pressure in the block, and torque, they may crack, spilling your coolant. I know from experience that it will not blow up the engine, but you will see that temp gauge rise more often than you'd like.

Who Should Worry?

Those owners of a Cummins 24v ISB engine in a 1998-2001 model year vehicle. This does not only affect Dodge Rams. The 53 block was also used in medium duty trucks from different manufacturers, mobile homes, public school buses and mass transportation buses.

Recent information received from a 1998 12v owner says that some late 12v engines have "53" blocks. This owner knows because he HAS one. His truck has a build date of 11-97. He did say, however, that he has had no problems with his block, regularly pulling heavy trailers in the Rocky Mountains.

How Do I Find out?

If you want to see if your engine block could be one of these dreaded "53" blocks, crawl under the front, left side, and look up at the block on the front, directly under the injector pump (by the PS pump). You should see a large wiring harness mounted to the block. Directly below this, just above where the oil pan meets the block you will look for a "53" cast in the block. The numbers will be about 1 inch tall. I have heard of some cases where the "53" is elsewhere on the block, but I have not been able to verify any other locations or see them.

What Happens?

A crack develops on the right side of the engine, below the freeze plugs, right where the block bends back towards the inside of the block. It is a difficult area to see for auto transmission owners as it is directly behind the transmission heat exchanger. At first everything evaporates so there is no spot under the truck, but you may notice a coolant odor. The leak doesn't occur at idle in most cases because the crack is tight to get through, and doesn't leak until the RPMs of the engine are up, with the water pump causing higher pressure inside the engine block due to the restriction of the thermostat.

The crack will grow over time and you will go through coolant faster. I found that I lost coolant at a slower rate if I let the engine warm up for a while, so the thermostat opened and lessened the pressure inside the engine block.

When Might It Happen?

This crack begins when towing in most cases. I have seen modded trucks that did not leak until they were stressed from towing heavy loads in the mountains. These same trucks would put in several runs at the drag strip on a regular basis and never had a problem, even towing, until they towed in the mountains.

What Do I Do If I Have A Cracked Block?

This depends on a lot of things. In the first scenario, you have a stone-stock truck with less than 100K, and is less than 5 years old. In this case, just take it to the Dodge dealer and let them put a new short or long block in (they will decide which they put in), free of charge. If you don't have any other problems with the internals of your engine you might ask them if they will just replace the block with the latest design ISB block, the "Storm" design.
If you have no engine mods, but have added gauges or upgraded the transmission in a manner that is evident to the naked eye, you will likely get some flack from Dodge about your "mods", even though they don't really affect the engine's running or what caused the crack.

The dealer may try to tell you they have never seen a block crack. It's a bold faced LIE! Unless the dealer just opened it's doors or they don't have Dodge trucks in that area, someone there knows all about it, and the Dodge regional rep who must inspect the engine to approve warranty service on the block, due to its cost, knows all about it.

The Cummins engine is actually purchased from Cummins by Dodge with no warranty, and Dodge honors all warranty on the engine.

There is a current class action settlement that owners of these engines are entitled to participate in. Unfortunately, the settlement amount is only $500 per owner, hardly enough to replace the block! A company called 'locknstitch' has a method to repair these blocks that has proven somewhat successful: LOCK-N-STITCH Inc. homepage: Cast iron crack repair, cast iron welding, thread repair inserts

The easiest way to remedy this problem however is to be aware that it exists and avoid trucks with a 53 block unless it's an extremely good deal.
 
go for a 91.5 -93 dodge you will not regret it they had intercoolers and the heads are better the older ones had issues with cracking around the injectors i will be a reliable truck and if it is an auto it will have od once you rebuild the tranny with a better convertor you will not have any issues I miss mine as a work truck and am going to build one again someday with things I wish mine had I do like my 98.5 now but miss the 12 valve motor
 
The early trucks without the intercooler has bigger injectors than the later ones with the intercooler. The best thing to do to them is get rid of the huge exhaust housing and go with a 12cm if you're towing heavy a lot and don't plan on any mods or a 14cm housing if you want to add a little power. It helps with spool up and a hx 35 off of a 94-02 can be swapped in place of the WH1 and will give you a 12 cm housing that will spool better. The 1st gen dodges are the most reliable and my favorite generation. I would like to find an extended cab for my self and get rid of the 11 3500 I have now.

There's also international cast blocks and heads in the 94-98 engines. You never know what you'll actually have until you pull them all way apart and see the IH casting symbol. Not all the 53 blocks will crack.
 
Between the maintenance and higher cost of diesel, not to mention the pre-98.5s were not really designed for use with ultra low sulfur diesel (ULSD); most times you wouldn't see any cost difference between the gasser and the Cummins. I've owned every version of the 5.9L Cummins Dodge ever offered, put well over a million miles on just a couple of those trucks. I traded the 2004.5 I last owned for a 6.0L Silverado...I have not looked back. I have saved a lot of $$ in the last year alone just owning the gasser. One thing about those early Cummins...the transmissions choices were a 5spd Getrag (they have issues) and either a 3spd 727 before 91 and a 4spd after 91 (the autos didn't hold up well behind the Cummins).

The whole argument that a diesel will outlast a gasser...yeah, the diesel will outlast the gasser, but the truck will fall apart way before that is ever realized. That's just the way it is...
 
My old Dodge is a 1976 W-100 (Power Wagon) Big block 400, Edelbrock 750 4bbl carb on a Edelbrock 318 Performer intake. Full-time 4wd. She's old and ugly but she's paid for and runs good. She's a beat up goin' to the woods work truck and I've had her for over 16 years now. I haul everything. I use it to haul my tractor around and haul my logs to the mill and of course, haul my firewood for heatin' the house. I wouldn't trade this truck for any new one. As long as I can find or make parts and can keep it running, I'll keep taking her to the woods.
 
I used to own a Ford PU but in 95 I decided to go diesel with Dodge. I purchased a new 96 2WD Extended cab with 8' bed. I have never looked back. Today I have 295,000 miles, original clutch and no major problems. I have gone thru 1 starter, 1 cruise control servo, brakes, ball joints and 1 alternator. The rest has been routine maintenance. Right now the clutch is on my mind but it is still going strong. I just completed a trip to Florida pulling a low boy trailer. No issue on the trip and still getting 20 MPG. I may have to do this trip again this month or next.

The second generation has one flaw that needs to be addressed. It is the killer dowel pin. This pin aligns the gearcase to the engine. It is not secured and can slip out and create extensive damage to the gears, case, etc. The fix is you pull the gearcase cover and tab the pin so it does not come out. I did this fix years ago when I found out about it. Some do not know about this problem and whether the fix has been made or not. I read on forums where the KDP bites and it is not good. One other minor issue is the headlights are powered by the switch with no relays. I changed mine to go thru relays. This take a great load off the headlight switch.

Other than that this truck has been great. I only wish it had the 4 doors rather than the 2 doors. I am now researching changing the clutch and maybe rebuilding the transmission. The transmission has not had any issues. It is the NV4500. 5 speeed.

I plan to keep this truck. It is a DD along with a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
 
I have a 2000 dodge four wheel drive standees cab dually tranny went out at 155000. Put a bd torque comforter and a valve kit in. 150 Bosch injectors, afe air filter, edge chip, 4 inch exhaust, and a air dog lift pump. Sips fuel, but has plenty of power when working under a load. It also has a flat bed that holds 2 loads of wood. It's big,it's bad, and it is a dodge. I get about 25 mpg on highway after upgrades.
 
I have an 01 1 ton Powerstroke and a 12' dump trailer, but regardless of the brand you choose diesel is the way to go (aside from the older chevy's, no juice in those)

If you are going to have the truck for a long time, the motor will last forever if you take care of it.

My powerstroke doesn't get the best mileage (about 17 on the highway, 14-15 under load with the trailer) but it's reliable. Easy to maintain.
 
Parts are pricey on a diesel. 2 years ago I went to West Virginia; from my house with a 32 foot air stream and 2 atvs I got almost 15 mpg. Fueled once my buddy had a hemi stopped 3 times.
 
Other than that this truck has been great. I only wish it had the 4 doors rather than the 2 doors. I am now researching changing the clutch and maybe rebuilding the transmission. The transmission has not had any issues. It is the NV4500. 5 speeed.



Wait until the Cummins jackhammers the 5th gear retention nut off the main shaft...it WILL happen (if it hasn't already). That will run you right around $700 in parts to fix...there's a TSB for that. My dad's 99 had this issue and it saw almost nothing but highway use...make sure the Dodge tech does the TSB, and doesn't do something stupid like spike the nut or tack weld the nut to the main shaft...

The two most popular Dodge/Cummins clutches out there are the Valair and South Bend Clutch (SBC), at least for the modified crowd. I ran a 3,850# dual disc in my 2004.5...
 
Find a used one ton dump diesel standard ford 7.3, duramax or cummins take all you can give them. Ive had all three standard with four to six foot sides hauled them full of wood or chips usually towing my skidsteer or chipper.
 
Wait until the Cummins jackhammers the 5th gear retention nut off the main shaft...it WILL happen (if it hasn't already). That will run you right around $700 in parts to fix...there's a TSB for that. My dad's 99 had this issue and it saw almost nothing but highway use...make sure the Dodge tech does the TSB, and doesn't do something stupid like spike the nut or tack weld the nut to the main shaft...

The two most popular Dodge/Cummins clutches out there are the Valair and South Bend Clutch (SBC), at least for the modified crowd. I ran a 3,850# dual disc in my 2004.5...

not as bad as twisting the input shaft in two,
i know someone thats broken 6 or 7 input shafts in his 99 3500, nv4500,
wondering how long its gunna take him to put a eaton 10spd in it, he just hasnt done it yet because hes got plenty of parts around:laugh:
 
Wait until the Cummins jackhammers the 5th gear retention nut off the main shaft...it WILL happen (if it hasn't already). That will run you right around $700 in parts to fix...there's a TSB for that. My dad's 99 had this issue and it saw almost nothing but highway use...make sure the Dodge tech does the TSB, and doesn't do something stupid like spike the nut or tack weld the nut to the main shaft...

The two most popular Dodge/Cummins clutches out there are the Valair and South Bend Clutch (SBC), at least for the modified crowd. I ran a 3,850# dual disc in my 2004.5...

how do you like that dual disc?
i also have a 04.5 3500 SRW nv5600, been thinkin about the same setup, just wondering how smooth it is?
dont really know why im askin seening as i usually only use it to start, and float the rest of the time hahah
 
The 3850 won't shift as quick as the 3600 or 3250 diaphragm pressure plates. I don't think they're any more of a hassle to shift but it does seem like you have to wait on them just a split second with all the weight spinning. I've had a few of the 3250, 3600 and 3850 lever style pressure plates. For sled pulling they're fine but daily driving the diaphragm in a 3250 or 3600 is the best I've driven out of a dozen or so.
 
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just a heavy pedal?
you ever tow with it? i tow 10-15k fairly often, or im loaded, i dont run empty too often, im just looking for somthing that will handle the weight better than the stock clutch
 
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