Wood stove beatifying time

[U&A]

don't know how many times this topic has been gone over but I figured I would share and hope it helps someone.

Our Pacific energy Summit Classic has now burned roughly 35 cords of hardwoods the past 5 burn seasons. She was new 5 seasons ago and she looked great! was the centerpiece of the living space. Kinda proud of it if you know what I mean. Michigan's high humidity off seasons have really take a tole on the finish of the Summit (no air conditioning) so I decided last night it is time for a paint job. also, I was pondering the condition of the internals of the stove pipe and did not want to go another season without getting a good inspection done on them. I had no idea how long they typically last. I removed all the floating internal parts last night for the normal cleaning, then removed the stack and damper that are inside the house. Got the damper and stack cleaned and re-painted. I'm pretty excited to say the least to make it look good again!!

The outside (black painted) stack was in decent shape with no rust spots but the stove itself has rust spots starting all over. just minor spots but they grow like cancer. The one thing I was AMAZED with was the condition of the inside of the stack and damper. Still had the stainless appearance (silver with blue and purpleish colors under the thin layer of soot..., no overheated gray appearance at all) with some slight discoloration from the heat and corrosive byproducts flowing thru it for 5 seasons. (once stainless overheats and turns gray some of the alloys have been oxidized/burnt out of it and it is no longer "stainless") but it looks GREAT still ! I only clean the stove and pipe once mid burn season (between Christmas and new years usually) and once at the end of the season.....sometimes I neglect it and put off the "end of season cleaning" until mid summer or even later......I know, bad move. is what it is. Despite the poor timing and leaving all the corrosives on the internals for to long than I should it looks great. as I said.

I will post pictures as I go along. paint im using is generic 1000 degree hardhearted rattle an paint. best one iv personally used is the ACE handwear Rust Stop 1000 degree paint. I like it a lot more than the rostellum version.

this
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/spray-paint/general-purpose/1010065

 

[U&A]

first section of stove pipe after a cleaning with the drill and weed whip line pipe cleaner. not bad at all. stove pic is after the rust has been sanded off. everything that can be removed has been and is all painted besides the stove now. stove gets painted this weekend. ill post pics tonight of all the "stuff" that came off and is already painted. You can also see some of my sketches inside the firebox....

 

[U&A]

Really happy with the results. Took a lot of work but looks dang good.

Few more before pics



And the afters.

New brick too.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Looks like new.

We don't clean anything inside the stove, never have. Outside gets rubbed with animal fat in small sections to stop the rust and seal the surface. Might need some scotchbrite cleaning this year and more fat applied before firing it up on these short burns. The pipe is SS for the first tree feet and then two regulars into the Duravent triple wall SS liner exhaust pipe. No issues with anything but we need new door gaskets now and the top exit plate plug needs a new gasket also. I use the rear discharge port with an elbow pointing up.

 

[U&A]

Looks like new.

We don't clean anything inside the stove, never have. Outside gets rubbed with animal fat in small sections to stop the rust and seal the surface. Might need some scotchbrite cleaning this year and more fat applied before firing it up on these short burns. The pipe is SS for the first tree feet and then two regulars into the Duravent triple wall SS liner exhaust pipe. No issues with anything but we need new door gaskets now and the top exit plate plug needs a new gasket also. I use the rear discharge port with an elbow pointing up.

Nice, animal fat is a good idea.

I clean the inside more than the outside. Inside gets scraped 2x a year. OCD i guess

 

[Lightning Performance]

Nice, animal fat is a good idea.

I clean the inside more than the outside. Inside gets scraped 2x a year. OCD i guess

Haven't touched the inside in five years or the door gasket but more glue. Needs door gaskets. 2000 model year or so with the original rope gaskets. The whole thing is original. 4 cords a year dry hardwoods. Mostly red oak.


I'm on the roof now doing a last fall season inspection. Ran two small fires this year with ash. Need to clean my hat and top foot of pipe. Pop the elbow below at the stove and dump the base to access the elbow like ever year about now. I was up here last week cleaning gutters again. Grew trees right next to the house.

Me leaning out on the Y of this black walnut.
Trimming many trees back again soon and adding gutters guards.this winter. We have a shaded house now in the summer That cherry is going out as you can see. The bigger one outback has COW on it. That needs to go also.

 

[Lightning Performance]

And no I didn't install that pipe cap like that.

 

[U&A]

And no I didn't install that pipe cap like that.

yee old chinamen cap I see.

I design industrial process ovens ( big enough to park your truck in) and we are now using what is called a "free flow rain cap". some engineer came up with this idea and now we are using them exclusively unless a customer askes otherwise.. Ill share a picture. you will find it interesting's.

 

[U&A]

Theory is rain never come straight down…..i call bull. Rain is supposed to hit the inside of that straight through rain cap and then run down the sides.


2D drawing shows the 60” tall “rain cap” over top of the 20” exhaust stack. You can see the 20 degree angle rain must meet in order to not go down the pipe.

Honestly, if rain goes down the stack it will evaporate. But that’s only if the oven is running obviously.

 

[U&A]

NOT SURE IF THAT VIDEO IS WORKING OR NOT. LET ME KNOW

 

[Lightning Performance]

yee old chinamen cap I see.

I design industrial process ovens ( big enough to park your truck in) and we are now using what is called a "free flow rain cap". some engineer came up with this idea and now we are using them exclusively unless a customer askes otherwise.. Ill share a picture. you will find it interesting's.

I was referring to the vent pipe not the chimney

 

[chipper1]

Looks good bud.
When you coming over to do mine, I'll trade you for a pickaroon .

 

[Lightning Performance]

Looks good bud.
When you coming over to do mine, I'll trade you for a pickaroon .

How much if I pick it up?

 

[chipper1]

How much if I pick it up?

It would help to pick it up, then he could pain the bottom of the feet, but maybe that's not what you meant .
He gave it to me, so it was kind of an inside joke, but now everyone knows lol.

 

[U&A]

How much if I pick it up?

did you use it at all? i wondered how long the head would stay one before needing a metal wedge in it.

 

[U&A]

How much if I pick it up?

sounds to heavy to pick up to me

 

[Hermio]

don't know how many times this topic has been gone over but I figured I would share and hope it helps someone.

Our Pacific energy Summit Classic has now burned roughly 35 cords of hardwoods the past 5 burn seasons. She was new 5 seasons ago and she looked great! was the centerpiece of the living space. Kinda proud of it if you know what I mean. Michigan's high humidity off seasons have really take a tole on the finish of the Summit (no air conditioning) so I decided last night it is time for a paint job. also, I was pondering the condition of the internals of the stove pipe and did not want to go another season without getting a good inspection done on them. I had no idea how long they typically last. I removed all the floating internal parts last night for the normal cleaning, then removed the stack and damper that are inside the house. Got the damper and stack cleaned and re-painted. I'm pretty excited to say the least to make it look good again!!

The outside (black painted) stack was in decent shape with no rust spots but the stove itself has rust spots starting all over. just minor spots but they grow like cancer. The one thing I was AMAZED with was the condition of the inside of the stack and damper. Still had the stainless appearance (silver with blue and purpleish colors under the thin layer of soot..., no overheated gray appearance at all) with some slight discoloration from the heat and corrosive byproducts flowing thru it for 5 seasons. (once stainless overheats and turns gray some of the alloys have been oxidized/burnt out of it and it is no longer "stainless") but it looks GREAT still ! I only clean the stove and pipe once mid burn season (between Christmas and new years usually) and once at the end of the season.....sometimes I neglect it and put off the "end of season cleaning" until mid summer or even later......I know, bad move. is what it is. Despite the poor timing and leaving all the corrosives on the internals for to long than I should it looks great. as I said.

I will post pictures as I go along. paint im using is generic 1000 degree hardhearted rattle an paint. best one iv personally used is the ACE handwear Rust Stop 1000 degree paint. I like it a lot more than the rostellum version.

this
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/spray-paint/general-purpose/1010065

The thread title is wood stove beatifying time. Well, I think you can beautify it but I doubt you can beatify it!

 

[chipper1]

The thread title is wood stove beatifying time. Well, I think you can beautify it but I doubt you can beatify it!

I noticed that too, but then again, we're from Michigan lol.