Nashua wood stove

[Tswarner67]

Does anyone know much about these? I’ve read they are pretty good and pretty tough and put out a lot of heat. My house came with one , older home, it’s built into the fire place. I have yet to take the outer pieces off to check around for anything messed up. I had a chimney sweep out to just give it a once over and clean it , he said it didn’t need cleaning and then gave me a big story about how it’s not to code and that I need to make sure the damper works and how it doesn’t burn efficient enough, then told me he could take it and put a new one in for me with a new chimney liner if I needed one for 3k or so. I kindly thanked him and declined. So what’s the word on these? Previous owner said it would sweat him out. Anything to look for or check? Pardon the heavy dust I’m finishing up a renovation

 

[Tswarner67]

Ps, it’s just a candle inside. I was trying to figure out the damper position and vents

 

[homemade]

How far does the rod pull out?

Looks like intake control is just the two knobs in front.


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[Tswarner67]

How far does the rod pull out?

Looks like intake control is just the two knobs in front.


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The rod actually rotates left to right it doesn’t pull out or atleast I cannot get it to. But yes I think the two knobs are the only intake

 

[Mad Professor]

Looks like the stove was just installed in the fireplace and then boxed in with metal to seal it off. Not how to do it......

Does the stove flue extend up past the fireplace damper, smoke chamber, and into the chimney flue? Is the flue lined?

I installed an old Warner stove in my fireplace. I ordered a complete UL listed flexible stainless liner, stainless t-connector/clean out to hook up to stove, and stainless cap assy. I had to remove the fireplace damper to install the stainless flue liner, the damper can be put back, no hacking.

The cap seals off chimney so no need to block off fireplace place, and the whole stove is exposed so I get all the heat. The chimney cap cover comes off with a screw driver to clean flue. I take off clean out T bottom, tape on a trash bag, then clean flue from the top. Takes ~ 1/2 hour. Rockford Chimney had the parts. Lifetime warranty, transferable.

I did need to extend the hearth pad to accommodate the stove and make fire code. I used fire board under 1 1/2 " granite slab.

I spent ~ $300 for granite/fire board, ~$1000 on liner assy . If you buy a flue liner, get an insulation kit. Even with a big old stove I can choke it down and get no creosote build up. In a years use full time, maybe a gallon of stuff from the flue. Most is from cap screen where the exhaust gets cold

Stove was as new $800. Stove's a boiler plate beast that takes 26" logs with a blower, heats the house for a long time on one load. Stove pictures stolen for reference, sorry I don't have pics of installation.

 

[Tswarner67]

Looks like the stove was just installed in the fireplace and then boxed in with metal to seal it off. Not how to do it......

Does the stove flue extend up past the fireplace damper, smoke chamber, and into the chimney flue? Is the flue lined?

I installed an old Warner stove in my fireplace. I ordered a complete UL listed flexible stainless liner, stainless t-connector/clean out to hook up to stove, and stainless cap assy. I had to remove the fireplace damper to install the stainless flue liner, the damper can be put back, no hacking.

The cap seals off chimney so no need to block off fireplace place, and the whole stove is exposed so I get all the heat. The chimney cap cover comes off with a screw driver to clean flue. I take off clean out T bottom, tape on a trash bag, then clean flue from the top. Takes ~ 1/2 hour. Rockford Chimney had the parts. Lifetime warranty, transferable.

I did need to extend the hearth pad to accommodate the stove and make fire code. I used fire board under 1 1/2 " granite slab.

I spent ~ $300 for granite/fire board, ~$1000 on liner assy . If you buy a flue liner, get an insulation kit. Even with a big old stove I can choke it down and get no creosote build up. In a years use full time, maybe a gallon of stuff from the flue. Most is from cap screen where the exhaust gets cold

Stove was as new $800. Stove's a boiler plate beast that takes 26" logs with a blower, heats the house for a long time on one load. Stove pictures stolen for reference, sorry I don't have pics of installation.


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Uncertain on some of your questions I haven’t taken the cover off to see and the chimney sweep wouldn’t touch it. I believe the stove flue does extend past damper. Not sure if insulated. Hope to figure it out this weekend . The stove was inserted in fireplace and the metal caps it off. Seems mostly for looks to clean it up from what I can tell. You can’t see in the picture but there’s a square cut out on each side that wraps around stove that air comes out when blower it on. I think that’s their way of getting the hot air out from around it. Not sure. Thanks for the tips! I will probably end up doing much of the same!

 

[moresnow]

Chances are good your sweep was correct in his safety opinion. @Mad Professor made the correct effort. Well worth pulling apart the shroud etc. to see what you have. Just guessing it's slammer install without stainless liner to the top of the chimney. Impossible/very difficult to properly sweep and potentially very dangerous due to likely clearance to combustibles issues. Get it setup/checked out and enjoy.

Otherwise it may be a great chance to upgrade as was recommended to something efficient, safe, and clean burning. BTW $3000 for a insert, insulated stainless liner and the install is a deal to say the least. Good luck either way!

 

[stumpy75]

I had one as my first stove in my house, and was freestanding. Replaced it with a regular Buck. I had the small one, and I needed something bigger, so I burned it hot. It lasted about 5 years before a crack developed in the sidewall where a smoke shelf was on the inside. The company replaced it, and I sold it a year later.

This stove had a double wall side with a blower in it. A port on both sides blew the hot air out from around the stove. Not sure how you would deal with that in a built-in install.

I remember opening the damper all the way to get it started, and then closing it most of the way once it was running good. I played with the air intakes until the stovetop temps were around 500 or so(as I remember).

No, they are not UL approved, as most stoves of that era were not. It will burn hot, and probably give you decent heat. It will use a lot of wood. It won't be like a new EPA stove, but what is the payback for installing one of those? Have to look at cost vs safety(or maybe cost AND safety)...

 

[Tswarner67]

Thanks for everyone’s replies! I haven’t got on here for a few days! I still have yet to pull it apart due to getting put on work all weekend. What are the safety concerns here? Other than if it doesn’t have a liner? The liner is just to make sure any smoke and flames going up and out right? It does have the side vents , they are open on the built in, looks like square tube or something to continue the vent out the front. I will keep you all up to date with what I find. Just trying to get a good idea of concerns and what to look for. I don’t plan on it being my primary heat source but would like it to be an option. I considered removing and just using as an open fire place but I don’t like the draft concerns and inefficiency of those either. The stoves look cool and from what I hear , heat well.

 

[Tswarner67]

I had one as my first stove in my house, and was freestanding. Replaced it with a regular Buck. I had the small one, and I needed something bigger, so I burned it hot. It lasted about 5 years before a crack developed in the sidewall where a smoke shelf was on the inside. The company replaced it, and I sold it a year later.

This stove had a double wall side with a blower in it. A port on both sides blew the hot air out from around the stove. Not sure how you would deal with that in a built-in install.

I remember opening the damper all the way to get it started, and then closing it most of the way once it was running good. I played with the air intakes until the stovetop temps were around 500 or so(as I remember).

No, they are not UL approved, as most stoves of that era were not. It will burn hot, and probably give you decent heat. It will use a lot of wood. It won't be like a new EPA stove, but what is the payback for installing one of those? Have to look at cost vs safety(or maybe cost AND safety)...

That was also my thoughts. If there’s no liner maybe I can put one in and it’ll be good to go. The cost justification of getting a new one for me right now doesn’t make a ton of sense as my primary heat is natural gas. This is a backup and or supplemental heat source. I may end up using it more than I think. Time will tell

 

[Mad Professor]

That was also my thoughts. If there’s no liner maybe I can put one in and it’ll be good to go. The cost justification of getting a new one for me right now doesn’t make a ton of sense as my primary heat is natural gas. This is a backup and or supplemental heat source. I may end up using it more than I think. Time will tell

This weekend I'll be able to take pictures again. Will try to post my setup. I use 100% wood unless away from home in New England.

Been doing so since I was a baby, made hot water/toast on Grandmas Glenwood before older folks got up.

 

[Tswarner67]

This weekend I'll be able to take pictures again. Will try to post my setup. I use 100% wood unless away from home in New England.

Been doing so since I was a baby, made hot water/toast on Grandmas Glenwood before older folks got up.

Much appreciated!

 

[stumpy75]

That was also my thoughts. If there’s no liner maybe I can put one in and it’ll be good to go. The cost justification of getting a new one for me right now doesn’t make a ton of sense as my primary heat is natural gas. This is a backup and or supplemental heat source. I may end up using it more than I think. Time will tell

I would take it apart and see what you are dealing with. As you said, if you maybe need to install a liner to be good, it will probably be worth it. I liked the Nashua i had, and the company stood behind it and replaced it when I had a problem. I sold it because I got a deal on a 1 year old Buck stove, which was the Cadillac of stoves at that time. The Buck was also better sized for my house. I've been supplimental heating with that stove for about 30 years. No, it's not a modern EPA stove, but it does what I want, I know how to use it, and I can't justify the cost of a new one.

 

[moresnow]

@Tswarner67 One more thing to contemplate. If you are going to install a insulated stainless flex liner to get up to modern code/safety. Most makes/models of modern efficient stoves/inserts run on a 6" venting system.
I have no idea what your existing unit has for outlet size? I personally would not install a 8" liner to match a old stove. To much investment for a unit that you will likely decide to upgrade. If your stove uses 6" great! Just another 2 cents worth this AM

 

[stumpy75]

@Tswarner67If your stove uses 6" great!

My small Nashua had a 6" flue. Not sure what others sizes had, but I think at least some other models had the 6" flue too. The largest ones had an 8".

 

[MOOSETRAX]

Thats a Nice stove. I just bought a 80s Warnock Hershey stove used for my cottage, the place already had a chimney & 9" outer 7" inner pipe leading to the wood stove place(believe its lined in such case) when i purchased it earlier this summer, So i only had to hook up the stove. Have learnt to open the damper for start & close later. I wonder what did you use to sweep clean the chimney ?

 

[sb47]

I found it best to leave the exaust dampner wide open and only use the intake dampner to make the adjustments for better heat control.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

You hire a pro, he says the install isn't to code.

What are the issues that your contractor pointed out? That would certainly be where I'd start.

Some insurance companies won't touch insuring a home with wood stove or fireplace.

Most aren't going to cover a non UL stove. And none I know of will cover a stove that is against fire/building code.

 

[Tswarner67]

You hire a pro, he says the install isn't to code.

What are the issues that your contractor pointed out? That would certainly be where I'd start.

Some insurance companies won't touch insuring a home with wood stove or fireplace.

Most aren't going to cover a non UL stove. And none I know of will cover a stove that is against fire/building code.

I hired him for a cleaning and inspection. He didn’t touch it, open it or look at . Said he didn’t know if it had a liner or not, didn’t know if it had a damper or not, that I should take it apart then tell him. He went straight to saying “it’s old and inefficient , wouldn’t be worth burning , I can install a new one”. So other than stating things he didn’t know if I did or did not have on my burner he didn’t really say what was wrong with it. He did climb the roof and said the chimney looked clean , and the stone looked good. I guess I get the liability of if he touches it he could be liable but from my aspect I was left with very little to pursue. I had a family friend who installs them look and he said let it rip. So that’s why I’m here , just trying to gather information and understand what to look for or what is “right”. Insurance company did look at closing and had no concerns with it.

 

[stumpy75]

I hired him for a cleaning and inspection. He didn’t touch it, open it or look at . Said he didn’t know if it had a liner or not, didn’t know if it had a damper or not, that I should take it apart then tell him. He went straight to saying “it’s old and inefficient , wouldn’t be worth burning , I can install a new one”. So other than stating things he didn’t know if I did or did not have on my burner he didn’t really say what was wrong with it. He did climb the roof and said the chimney looked clean , and the stone looked good. I guess I get the liability of if he touches it he could be liable but from my aspect I was left with very little to pursue. I had a family friend who installs them look and he said let it rip. So that’s why I’m here , just trying to gather information and understand what to look for or what is “right”. Insurance company did look at closing and had no concerns with it.

If it were me, I'd pull it apart just to see how things were put together, for my own piece of mind. It sounds like you have no liner, so that could be an investment, but I remember the stack coming out of the back of that stove. If there is a piece of pipe from the stove going into a elbow and then a piece going up the masonry chimney that a sweep said was in ok condition, then burn away! IMHO...

And, yes, I have had sweeps look at my current setup and tell me similar horror stories about my old Buck stove. Not UL approved(actually it is) and insurance problems, etc. Then I got a sweep that was a lot more professional.

Yes, the sweep I use now do sell stoves, and have for the past 45 years. They sold me the Nashua I had. They have all the certifications(which the other ones did not), and do repair work on commercial and residential chimneys throughout the year. They have looked at my setup for the past 10 years or so, and said I don't have a problem. According to them, my old stove is not as efficient as the new stoves, but it works and it's safe. That's good enough for me...