wood stove help

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bruce6670

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
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Location
new jersey
Can anyone help me get started with a wood stove ?
I want to put one in my house as a back up heating source.I don"t want to use it all the time, just when I'm home or when the power goes out.
I want to use red brick to sit it on and plan on doing most of the work myself.I just want to do everything correctly as to not cause a fire hazard.
I was offered an old Pine Barren stove from a friend but don't know if that is a good idea.The price is right and I could change it later if I don't like it as long as I build everything else up to proper standards.
Any help in leading me in the right direction would be appreciated.
 
I guess my question is where do I find information on things like :

1-What size and type of pipe to use ?

2-How far off the wall should it be ?

3-Is a Pine Barren stove any good ?

4-What are some of the concerns I should know about that I have not even considered ?:confused:
 
First thing to do is check with your insurance company and see what they say about your coverage/rates.
 
Your insurance company (if they will allow you) will have a booklet of all the codes...First thing your gonna need is a chimeny
 
In NY, you need to pull a permit to add a woodstove to your home...not sure about NJ. Installing one is fairly simple as long as you are capable of basic carpentry, roofing, etc. I have never heard of a pine barren stove, but you can always swap it out with another stove with the same flue diameter. As far as clearances..I think that the stove itself dictates clearance to combustables...your best bet might be to find a local fireplace shop that is willing to let you pick their brains, with the agreement that you'd buy parts from them and have them inspect when finished. Thats what I did...its a pretty straightforward installation as long as you are super careful of clearances for the stove, stovepipe and chimney.
 
You must add a wood stove to your insurance to be covered.

The insurance company will want to come out and inspect your installation. They will want to look at the label on the back of the stove, want to measure the distance from the walls, the distance of the hearth in front of the stove, and want to see an approved/inspected building permit for the stove.

The building inspector will want to see that you installed the wood stove and chimney per manufacturer's installation instructions. Clearances, size of chimney pipe for that model of wood stove, etc.

So pretty much you need a wood stove with a label on the back and its installation instructions. And then the installation instructions from the chimney manufacturer. If there is no label on the back of the wood stove and it is not EPA certified, you might have a lot of trouble.
 
You must add a wood stove to your insurance to be covered.

The insurance company will want to come out and inspect your installation. They will want to look at the label on the back of the stove, want to measure the distance from the walls, the distance of the hearth in front of the stove, and want to see an approved/inspected building permit for the stove.

The building inspector will want to see that you installed the wood stove and chimney per manufacturer's installation instructions. Clearances, size of chimney pipe for that model of wood stove, etc.

So pretty much you need a wood stove with a label on the back and its installation instructions. And then the installation instructions from the chimney manufacturer. If there is no label on the back of the wood stove and it is not EPA certified, you might have a lot of trouble.

Your stove does not have to be EPA certified, It doesnt even have to be Ul listed in my state. If its not UL listed it is much harder to install. The state and insurance company will pefer a UL listed stove. Look all over your stove for a UL label.

I could scan images of the book i have if it will help you any.
 
Does it look like this?

http://www.**********/econtent/index.php/wiki/627f1ed67d13c91e25a98f99f534c91d/

Any older cast iron stove in th e$200 range will do what you are asking. It's a good way to get into burning wood. Next thing you know you will have 3 or chainsaws and a $5K wood furnace....life is good:clap:

RD
 
Does it look like this?

http://www.**********/econtent/index.php/wiki/627f1ed67d13c91e25a98f99f534c91d/

Any older cast iron stove in th e$200 range will do what you are asking. It's a good way to get into burning wood. Next thing you know you will have 3 or chainsaws and a $5K wood furnace....life is good:clap:

RD

Yes, it looks just like that one. Thanks for the help.

As for chainsaws,I already have 346xp,372xp ,2094,plus some top handle Echo's.I'm already hooked.:)
 
Thanks everybody for the information.

I was going to talk to my insurance guy first just to see how they handle wood stoves in a house.Plus, I will go and get the necessary permits from the township before I start.

I'll let you know how this progresses.

Thanks again.:rock:
 
Sounds great Bruce. Its a fun project to tackle and afterwards while enjoying the fire it's nice to know you did it.

I'm handy with all construction aspects but wood stove I first thought would be hard. Hired a contractor, he never showed up and so I started it...and ended up finishing it myself.

There's 1 link that really helped me...It's this! http://www.selkirkcorp.com/flashGuide/english/cf/sentinel.swf

I had the ceiling support install. I purchased all parts from Lowes. They had the 6" flu double insulated. Don't get the single wall pipe! Double insulated is good. triple is better but not nescessary. They had the attic sheild kit there too. and the Raincap.

Before you buy everything...measure the length you'll need. Remember you need to have 3 feet sticking up above your roof(not the peak).

Let me know if you have any questions..I'll guide you through.
 
And I put tiles on floor under the stove but didn't mortar them in case I want to move the stove I lift the tiles up and the hardwood floors are still in good shape. :)

I'm still worried about the sheetrock I left behind the stove. Even though it's 18 inches away..I might stone the wall in the corner there.

100_6835.jpg


100_6836.jpg


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100_6843.jpg
 
And I put tiles on floor under the stove but didn't mortar them in case I want to move the stove I lift the tiles up and the hardwood floors are still in good shape. :)

I'm still worried about the sheetrock I left behind the stove. Even though it's 18 inches away..I might stone the wall in the corner there.

100_6835.jpg


100_6836.jpg


100_6837.jpg


100_6844.jpg


100_6843.jpg

Thanks Cambium. I will definitely have more questions in the near future.

This week will be for gathering information from my insurance company and the township.
 
Thanks Cambium. I will definitely have more questions in the near future.

This week will be for gathering information from my insurance company and the township.


Just remember...if you're not using it for heat..you're wasting your time doing that. I wonder if insurance companies ask if there's a fireplace in the house. Never! Or maybe we should tell them we have scented candles we burn. lol

Point is..you might be opening a can of worms. Just giving you a heads up.

Its just another way to raise your premiums and/or taxes. But it's up to you in the end. Let me know what they say. Good night.
 
3-Is a Pine Barren stove any good ?

The best. Better'n a regency, anyway:hmm3grin2orange::givebeer:

Here's a link to the Pine Barren http://www.**********/econtent/index.php/wiki/File:piney.pdf/

I took a look at the blower today, it's not the factory one, just a little squirrel-cage fan and a sheet metal box we made that blows through the tubes at the top of the stove. Works good, I just never needed it for my application.
 
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I ordered my chimney from northline express, and was almost half as much as the local stove shop wanted for it. I found out later, that is where my stove shop got their pipe too. I went with double wall inside and triple wall outside.

We did tell our insurance company, and sent them pictures - didn't require them to come to our house. I think our premium went up $50 for the year.

Good luck
 
Cambium,

And I put tiles on floor under the stove but didn't mortar them in case I want to move the stove I lift the tiles up and the hardwood floors are still in good shape.

I am amazed your inspector passed your install. It looks like you have a UL listed stove so you meet the rear clearance. From the foto though it looks like you are to close to the corners of the stove. Also, your stove should have called for either a particular R factor for floor protection OR only ember protection. Tiles over a combustible surface will have virtually NO insulating value if your stove does require a particular insulating factor. If it just calls for ember protection, then loose tiles don't meet that standard either as embers could fall between the unmortared tiles.

I am not trying to be picky. I just don't want to read about any AS members house burning down. I also don't want to read about any OTHER members house burning down from following your instructions. YOUR particular installation with YOUR particular stove may be able to get away with not following code. Some other installation may not be so lucky.
Al

P.S. All the info you need is here.
http://www.**********/what/specific.php
 
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