woodshop
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yup, when I first started to work with wood seriously, I went through a large learning curve concerning wood movement. Ask any professional woodworker, and he/she will tell you that (when possible) you never mill exact dimensioned boards wider than a few inches for a dresser or table for example, until right before you are going to actually fit them into place where they can be screwed/glued. At first, many a time I would take a rough board down to exact dimensions, taking great care to get it flat and true with nary a hint of a twist when laying it out on a very flat surface... and then come back down in the shop a day or two later and find it had a slight bow or twist. My perfect board had moved a little. As TNMike says, this is just the nature of the beast. All wood is hygroscopic, it takes in and gives off moisture like a sponge, and thus it swells and shrinks slightly with the weather. Real woodworkers deal with it by building in wood movement in their pieces. This is why raised panels in doors are not glued in place, they all "float" in that frame. Table tops are not glued and screwed down solid the whole way around, there is built in room for the wood to expand an eight of an inch or so while remaining relatively tight on the apron and leg bottom it sits on. This is also the reason you bring rough "dry" lumber from your outside stack down into your shop and then let it sit there for a few weeks while it "moves" to the climate of your indoor shop. This is another reason that if you're serious about using wood in a woodshop you need to purchase a GOOD moisture meter. I have a pin-less Wagner that I've had for over 10 years... I don't know what I'd do without it.Its good every now and then to step back and realize wood is a natural material that moves with the ambient conditions. Its not like steel that you can put into a mill vise, take 250 thous off it and it be the same tomorrow...
If you're talking about rough lumber or wet boards right off the log as we have been in this post, the situation is even worse. You can almost SEE them move that first week or so of drying when they start to lose all that moisture.
Once agiain I'm gonna plug Burce Hoadly's book "Understanding Wood" because it's so good... it explains all this in detail, and (for me at least) is VERY interesting reading. His other book "Identifying Wood" is of equel value, and I refer to both often. Once in a while on Amazon or other places you can get both together at a reduced price if you get the pair.
Silvertongue... over and out