Would this idea work???

[rodeobob]

I picked this up a while back.
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Mate of mine knows a bit about electrickery and was going to buy a motor that would do the job and fit and wire it up for me. Sat at his joint for about 12 months and it never happened so I claimed it back.

Ive got a couple of electric direct drive steel saws so Im not sure this would be much use.

So I was thinking, what if I mounted up a chainsaw motor on it.
A steel cut off saw that you could use anywhere.
More accurate than using a chop saw.


But what chainsaw??
Ive got a couple of TS760 parts saws here, but they are for parts for bigger and better things.


I have a few McCullochs lying about, I dont think anyone would cry about that.
I did a bit of research.
Was there a chop saw based on the -10 series. What was the model called? Ive got two 7-10's here. But that seems a bit of a shame.

Ive got 2 610's and a 650 here. They made a 690. It looks like the same thing.
So would it be a good idea to strip down one of the 610's to mount up.
Would 60cc be enough balls?? Was the 690 much good as a chop saw?? As opposed to a concrete saw as thats a lot harder work I would imagine.
If i remember right it was a 2HP 220v electric thats meant to be on it. Elec has more torque than petrol so I was thinking I would need more than 2hp. How much HP was a 600 series anyway??

And where would I get a clutch drum for it?? I saw some on eBay a while back but none listed now??


Cheers, Bob.

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[tolman_paul]

Are you planning on cutting tubing or structural shapes? I'd think for tubing a 60cc saw would be enough, if cutting structural shapes you might want a bit more juice.

The real bugaboo is going to be hooking up the engine. You're either looking at some lathe and welding work to fab up a v-belt clutch, or you could take an old chain, make up a short loop with all the teeth and rakers ground off and make up a jack shaft so that your existing clutch and chain drive a sprocket on the shaft and on the other end of the shaft is a v-belt pulley hitched up to the saw.

If you could find a reasonbly priced gas chop saw you'd probably be hours and dollars ahead just mounting that to the existing frame and vise.

 

[LegDeLimber]

I've got to ditto on Tolmans comment.

I don't know what options you guys have "down under"
But is there a small 2 stroke engine in the yard & garden equipment
that is common enough to pick one up and use for fitment?

Whatever you use, I'd look hard and carefully at the fuel tank and system.
You're likely aware of the sparks and melt through or spillage from engine swing/tilt issues I'd be concerned with.
(it seems likely that the engine will end up in the spray zone from the wheel )

I do like the general idea though if You've need or future use for the saw
and we gotta scrounge when the parts and opportunity arise.

 

[heimannm]

There were a variety of cut off saws built around McCulloch power heads including the 795, 7-10, 600 Series (690), and even the PM300 Series (390) with a whopping 34.4 cc's.

The PM650 was reported to have 30% more HP than the standard 610 saws so if your 650 power head is in good shape that would be the best choice of the 600 Series saws.

I have an "add on" cut off saw kit to fit a 250 type McCulloch that has a very small v groove pulley (3v?) with the spline bore so it works with most any large spline clutch drum but you would have to have a different pulley on the driven end.

If I remember correctly, my Target and Stowe models based on the 795 power head had a more convention v groove pulley fixed to the clutch drum.

I also have a 7-10 based starter/charger that has an "A" groove pulley fixed to the drum.

The point is, you should be able to find a drum with a v groove pulley if you keep looking. The 10 Series and 600 Series saws use the same clutch/drum.

Mark

 

[turtle561]

i've have seen the amish use gas motors on all kinds of woodworking tools, chop boxes, tablesaws etc. they favored honda 4 strokes.
i've used a concrete saw with metal cutting blade to cut up steel boat trailers, springs and all, with no blow back from sparks, other than an occasional grass fire. ha

i have a dolmar 309 with the pulley clutch, but the motor is worn out (Knocks)

 

[heimannm]

.

 

[LarryRFL]

That saw (cold saw?) probably had a 1.5 hp electric motor running it. Conversion from electric to gas is approximately 2 to 1 from my experience. This will need a little more hp for the torque involved in cutting the heavy steel the saw was designed for. Cheaper would be to get a chonda engine from Harbor Freight or Northern Tool. Have a bearing/drive shop calculate the sheave (pulley, I worked for a man who anal about using correct terms) needed to get the right rpm. You'll need to know the rpm of the driver (electric motor 1750 - gas 3600), driven pulley size, center to center distance and desired blade rpm. With all this you can get the right sheave and the right belt. There is a double sheave on the driven. Spend the extra for a banded belt. Performance will be much better.

 

[heimannm]

A single groove, or a flat or crowned unit is a pulley. When they have multiple grooves, they magically become sheaves.

Mark

 

[LarryRFL]

A single groove, or a flat or crowned unit is a pulley. When they have multiple grooves, they magically become sheaves.

Mark

Didn't work with my old boss. And according to Browning and Martin they are listed as sheaves. Had my butt chewed (nicely, he was a good boss) for incorrect nomenclature. "Pulleys are for rope, sheaves are for belts".

 

[heimannm]

Pulley
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Pulley

Simple machine

Industry
Construction, transportation

Wheels
1

Axles
1

A pulley is a wheel on an axle that is designed to support movement of a cable or belt along its circumference.[1] Pulleys are used in a variety of ways to lift loads, apply forces, and to transmit power.

A pulley is also called a sheave or drum and may have a groove between two flanges around its circumference. The drive element of a pulley system can be a rope, cable, belt, or chain that runs over the pulley inside the groove.

 

[67L36Driver]

.

I hope they keep a door or window open in the wintertime.

 

[psuiewalsh]

You might want to edit first pic. They do not yet usually like them being taken around here.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2

 

[barneyrb]

Problem I see is most gas cut off saws are rev limited and I (for one) would not want to be around a blade turning 11k rpm. I think gas blades are rated for 6k or less......

 

[fearofpavement]

Most concrete block saws can be had with either electric motors or gas engines. Look at a few of these for ideas of how to rig what you have. The block saws are made by a number of companies such as MK, Stone, Multiquip, Husqvarna, Imer, etc. They run a diamond rim blade and most of the gas engine ones use a Honda 4 stroke or similar.

 

[rodeobob]

Thanks for the info and opinions.
Keep em coming.


Its not a cold saw. Must be a hot saw then. lol.


I would just be using it to cut RHS and the like. So nothing too thick.
Yeah you could use a purpose made chop saw (like the TS760 ive got here in bits), but they are none too accurate.


Thanks Mark, good to know the clutch on the 10's an 600 are the same drum.
Love the starter charger.

Someone said about chain. I had thought of that, same thing as the atom/stihl/McCulloch auger/drill attachement. But then you would need lubrication. Geez wouldnt that make a mess.

Once I had a clutch drum i was going to work out the RPM difference. Swap the pulley. Oh sorry swap the sheave thats on it for a pulley. Did I get that right?
I have a lathe that does not work. Guy across the road has one and a couple of my mates.
So the technology is handy to make up a pulley type clutch drum if need be.

Theres no RPM info on it and I never had the elec motor.
It takes a 400mm disc. Just a generic Chinese machine, model J3G6-400.

Im thinking I might give it a go with one of the 610's. Its doing the bar oil in the crank case thing so it saves having to fix it.
The 650 I might like to keep to cut wood with.

Limiting the ignition would be a good idea. Is the module and intergrated part of the coil on the 600's??
Could try it first i suppose and if there is an issue, sort that later.
My thoughts on it were to use the trigger and grip off a line trimmer (got heaps of those here) on the pole handle and run a cable in for throttle.
Remove the handle assembly off the power head.
Find someone with a parts saw or busted saw and get another bottom housing plate. Or I could hack mine up.

So should I make an adapter/mount up out of an old bar??? Mount the power head that way??
Or should I try and pick up some other point on the body of the saw as well??

Then make up a shield/guard between blade and power head.

I did spy an 80cc saw with a busted handle for sale. It might be a good option too.

 

[mesupra]

Harbor freight 6.5hp predator engine $99, Nuff said.

 

[rodeobob]

$99 engine, $400 postage.


Ive got plenty of horizontal shaft motors, propper honda jobs, and about 50 times that many 160cc two stroke victas that I could use as well.


Why a saw power head??? Its less than half the size and weight for twice the go.