wow...demand is good.

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cantcutter

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Aug 18, 2007
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Location
lexington
I ran two ads as a test and got three jobs lined up... one is for a cabin kit and another is to mill 10 acres of cedar! I am trying to push them back a few months so I have a little time to get good and comfortable with the mill. I hope I am not getting in over my head too fast. I am not going to complain though:biggrinbounce2:
 
I'm wondering.... Have you owned a band mill before, or any other sawmill?? How much sawing have you done?

There's a learning curve to sawing logs, and most customers expect the sawyer to be in the "upper end" of that curve "before" they give up there hard earned dollars... I'd say that owning a bandmill is less than 1/4th of the equation...

A good sawyer will saw more lumber out, at a higher grade than someone that's new to sawing... Perhaps you've been in the business a few years?

AND,

I'm NOT implying that i'm some kind of a super sawyer either! I have a huge amount to learn yet, even though i've owned a bandmill for a long time now.

Rob
 
Yeah I really need to get out to the farm and burn through a few hundred logs. I am waiting on bands right now to come in. I have the cabin guy agreed to wait til December.....(just a small hunting camp so that should not be bad) the other guy isnt going to be ready anytime soon as he is older and can't cut the trees himself, but I agreed to go out and meet with him.


I wish TK would put Some of their options on the site.... I had to call them to find out about resharp and I need a toe board and they do not have them listed on the site either; neither is the chain turner. I will keep everybody posted on my rapid learning experience....... why on earth would TK recomend that you run ads a month before you ever get a mill? I waited til after and still wish I waited a little longer.
 
The turkeys in our county planning dept. have accepted the national building code hook, line, and sinker. We can use rough wood only if it is from trees on our site, going into our house or if an engineer stamps your plans saying the wood on hand is OK. I did that 10 yr ago, but I'm not sure it would work now.

Farmers can use it in farm buildings, but even they are subject to the structural codes, which are excessive in most aspects.

It's pretty hard to sell roughcut around here, but there are people doing it. Most goes to ground mats, septic pipe alignment boards, etc.

Good luck and keep us posted, with pictures,
 
Alot af areas have gone with the national standards.... I am not trying to compete with home in de pot.....the builders will always use the graded and stamped lumber. ( the buikding market has gone down the drain in this area anyway) I don't care what anybody does with their own lumber and seeing as I am only providing a service it should not impact me at all..... I am hoping to get some logs cut up this weekend and will get pics up if I do....Cutting will be limited until the new blades come in which I hope will be soon..... I managed to save the blade that was on the mill when I got it, but the spare that came with it looks like it was run hot... the tips are all real blunt. I am going to take it with me when I have the first batch to be sharpened, but I doubt it is saveble.
 
I would be interested in hearing what blades you decided on. I have had good luck with the Lenox Wood Master blades. The only reason I chose Lenox is, I can purchase and have them sharpened 15 minutes from my house. Do your self a favor, put that questionable blade on your mill and cut into one of the log stops. It is better to get it out of your system with a bad blade. So or latter you will do it. Have some fun this weekend. Good luck.
 
I bought a box of Simonds to start.... I may try several brands before I set on one. The guy Timberking uses to sharpen in this area will sharpen any brand.
 

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