XL-12 advice

[andrethegiant70]

Hey, Gents. I have an xl-12 that I'm trying to troubleshoot. The saw starts and idles, but poorly. It won't take the throttle well, either and nearly dies. I have rebuilt the carb to no avail. I swapped the carburetor with another xl-12 that DOES run nicely, and still no change. I think that about takes care of carburation being the problem. The fuel line looks new, as does the filter. I have also sprayed the saw (running) liberally with starter fluid to see if it is pulling air, and it doesn't appear to, though I think this method is not foolproof for finding air leaks. The points look ok, but I'm not sure about gap (anybody know the gap on an xl-12?)

I'm thinking weak spark, timing, gap, or air leak, but I figure I should check with my chainsaw brethren. Ideas?

 

[RaisedByWolves]

The points setting is .015.


If the gap is set too big it will cause similar problems to what you are describing.

Ive got NOS points and condenser for that saw if you need them.

 

[andrethegiant70]

Thanks!... Without putting a gapping tool in there, I judge its probably close, but I'll doublecheck it. I understand that an air leak will cause the saw to race... is this always the case? Can I rule an air leak out?

As far as the ignition system goes, does anyone know if these are prone to run poorly before they quit completely?... or is this a case of "it either works or it doesn't."

 

[RaisedByWolves]

It will make it run like carp before it dies completely.

Close enough on the points will cause the exact thing youre describing, as will dirty/worn points and a capacitor on its way out.


How do your reeds look?

Hows the compression feel?


A bad seal shouldnt stop it from reving unless its way gone.

 

[andrethegiant70]

Thanks for the feedback, RBW. Saw passes the "drop test," though compression is not A1. I have not dissected the reed valve assembly, though I was of the opinion that not much could realistically happen to the reed valve. If the reed valve is what I see in the intake port when I pop off the carb, it appears clean and shiny. Judging by how wet the carb gets as it runs, I'd say there is unburned gas going through the saw. Seem like this points to electrical?

It sounds like I'm going to be replacing parts 'till I find the offender! I love these old Homelites! Here are some parts that I may be interested in.

Points
Condenser
Seals
Rings
Plastic intake block (managed to damage mine taking it off)
Fuel filters
Air filters

Possibly we could chat about parts? Thanks for taking an interest!

Steve

 

[canguy21]

I had a similar problem with an older Echo. There was a piece of debris caught under the reed.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Andre Some of these parts I do have, no rings however.

I dont feel the drop test is a valid test on these older saws, my 700g drops so fast it will actually start and it has 150lbs compression.

Even a cheap auto type tester will put you ahead if it saves you replacing the rings needlessly.


Send me a pm with a list of your needs Including part #'s if possable. If you dont know the part#'s send me your UT# and Ill look them up.



DDM if your watching Ive sent you a PM allready. Im not afraid to pony up.