yet another home made alaskan.....

[foursaps]

built this over the past few days (hour here, hour there) in hopes of milling our own wood to build a sugar shack for our maple syrup operations....

interested in anyone's opinion on it, and what should be improved or added onto it. i have never built one, or even used on for that matter. the saw is my husky 372 xp, which i plan (or hope) to use to mill...

thanks!!

 

[Daninvan]

4Saps,

Couple things I see are that the bolts and nuts hanging down on the powerhead side are going to tend to get hung up on the log. I would have put the angle iron facing the other way on the powerhead side so that they would act as 'skids' on the bark of the log.

Other thing is that it appears the nose clamp is right on the sprocket, you don't want to compress the sprocket, you need to move it back behind. This is more mission critical than the bolt interference problem. Obviously this will cost you some cutting width to correct.

You might also want to consider using milling chain if you haven't already bought some / filed some.

Otherwise I say find a log and give it a test!

Dan

(I like your shop - it has lots of beer!)

 

[BobL]

Looks good foursaps

Here's what I would do.

On the outboard end, cut off most of the top sections of the top piece angle iron bar clamp and completely remove the bottom piece of angle completely. Because you are using the bar/nose rivet hole an a outboard clamp in unnecessary. They don't do anything significant structurally and just get in the way. All that is needed are the bolts you already have through the bar/nose junction rivet holes and enough angle to provide support for a nose guard. BTW this is teh first time I have seen someone use the rivet holes - darn good idea -

On the inboard side of the bar clamps I would rotate the whole vertical like I show in this picture. This will enable them to act like skids against the sides of the log.

Now you need some handles - the more you have the better.

 

[woodsrunner]

The only real problem I see is the angle iron pieces which clamp to the bar.the saw chain will pull the power head into the log. And those corners will bite into the log and stop forward progress. Try turning them around so the vertical legs of the angle iron are facing the log. Better yet, drill some holes in the horizontal legs and bolt a roller onto the legs to help the mill roll down the side of the log. Good luck with the 372. Make sure it's tuned a little rich and use good quality mix oil in gas/oil mix. The 372 isn't real torquey so don't push too hard on it and keep the chain sharp. Check out BobL's mill pictures for ideas on the rollers.
Have fun!

Scott

 

[woodsrunner]

BobL,
Dang you're fast!

 

[BobL]

BobL,
Dang you're fast!

Not as fast as Daninvan!

 

[Daninvan]

Not as fast as Daninvan!

Ha! I was just lucky there!

Plus I did not notice that he used the rivet holes. I thought he was squeezing the roller. I went back and looked at the photos - I still can't see that! We'll have to call you Bob "sharp eyes" L.

Dan "time for an eye check" invan

 

[BobL]

Ha! I was just lucky there!

Plus I did not notice that he used the rivet holes. I thought he was squeezing the roller. I went back and looked at the photos - I still can't see that! We'll have to call you Bob "sharp eyes" L.

 

[Andrew96]

Foursaps...nice job..I'm sure you'll follow the others suggestions and flip the posts around. I can't see how you used the rivet holes either but hey...bob must have swung some time on the Hubble to see that close...from that far I'd expect he has the connections.

All I can see is you are missing some kind of center support to start your cut when you're not using a starter board. Think of it this way...if you were to use those 2x4s (as in the photo..beside the beer) as a bit of a starter board, you would have to have them stick out past the width of the mill to start your cut level..good...now onto the second cut when you don't choose to use your starter board, how would you be able to start your cut and still keep it level? Your rail parallel to the chain won't support the mill until you are 8" into your cut. Add some kind of center cross piece...like your ends only in the middle so you can "ride your log" before you start your cut. Better still...add two. They need to be on the same plane as the galvanized rails. That's what I'd do anyway. I don't set up the ladder for every single cut.

 

[BobL]

As well as being legally deaf I also wear glasses so it's me that's blind.
I was fooled by the (black) color of the replaceable nose.

Then Daninvan and Andrew are correct, that clamp will kill your bar nose.

Foursaps, if you read the sticky post number 25 (here) you will see alternative nose clamps.

If you want to retain your existing clamp you should use method #1 on that post.

With a bit of modding you can use other nose holding methods.

If you are able to drill holes in your bar, clamps are not even necessary.

Here's what you can do on the inboard side.

Complete thread here http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=119956

 

[foursaps]

thanks for the suggestions everyone. i have already turned the powerhead side bar clamps around so the angle iron is facing out instead of in. easy enough, but a great suggestion.

I was thinking about using the rivet holes, but in the pictures the nose is squeezed between the bar clamps, not running through the rivet holes. (although they are only clamped on the rivets that hold the nose roller, not the bar itself if that makes sense.) i assume you shouldn't do this because it will burn up the bearings? Can i remove 1 rivet, and insert a bolt in it place to hold the nose? as was mentioned, this would get rid of a lot of the nose end bar clamp, be easier, and would probably gain a little cutting width.

EDIT: bobl, that is a great idea on the nose mounting side. i think i may end up going that route. all i have to do is drill and tap a bolt hole into the bar clamp i currently have, and cut off the excess angle iron. how safe is it to drill inside the rivets holding the sprocket? or should i use one of the rivets as i had thought?

I also will be adding in some "runners" in the center to give me that flat surface for beginning and ending the cut. and a couple handles will be built into the center runners.

I hope the 372 is up to the task, it is currently the biggest saw i have. I have been looking for something bigger, but work is a little slow so spending is down.... plus i will be milling mainly pine for framing and maybe some cherry or maple for trim and siding.
now i just need the rain/snow/sleet/hail/wind/freezing rain to stop so i can try this thing out!!

thanks again!

 

[BobL]

I was thinking about using the rivet holes, but in the pictures the nose is squeezed between the bar clamps, not running through the rivet holes. (although they are only clamped on the rivets that hold the nose roller, not the bar itself if that makes sense.) i assume you shouldn't do this because it will burn up the bearings? Can i remove 1 rivet, and insert a bolt in it place to hold the nose? as was mentioned, this would get rid of a lot of the nose end bar clamp, be easier, and would probably gain a little cutting width.

I would just drill a hole in the middle of the sprocket nose and just bolt the bar nose to the top part of the clamp like this bar is bolted direct to the mill.

There's no need to tap the bar (you'll find it hard enough to drill the hole in the nose let alone tap the thread anyway.
However, you will need to tap the top part on the clamp

It's perfectly safe I to drill the holes in the centre of the nose - big discussion and WIP here.
Nearly all my roller and sprocket bars have holes in the nose.

I hope the 372 is up to the task, it is currently the biggest saw i have. I have been looking for something bigger, but work is a little slow so spending is down.... plus i will be milling mainly pine for framing and maybe some cherry or maple for trim and siding.

Just take it easy with the 372 - you should absolutely not have to push the saw. Make sure the chain is sharp and rakers set properly. Richen it up a little and take your time.

 

[DRB]

Here is how I attach the bar tip end. Although my mill has two post on the saw end. Just drill through the center of the rivets. I have drilled 3/8" holes through the bar tips of Oregon, Stihl and Cannon with out any problems

Here is what happens when you drill to fast and the metal hardens. I had to finish this hole off with a die grinder.

Your 372 should work ok for soft woods. I use a 365 mostly for cutting boards now. The 088 cuts the cants.

 

[foursaps]

thanks for the pictures, really clears things up for me!!

so what is the difference between using a bolt in the middle of the rivets versus using a clamp positioned on each side of the rivets? is the bolt through the rivets just hand tightened, so as not to put pressure?

i am a little hesitant to drill a hole in the bar, as the saw is also used a lot for felling and bucking, does it allow debris to enter into the bar nose? my drill press doesn't exactly run slow, what rpm's are you running? i may end up purchasing a new bar if i decide to drill the hole, and use that for the bucking, and drill the current bar.

anyway, i have added the "runners" in the middle of the mill for it to ride on, and drilled some holes in the "runners" to allow multiple mounting locations for the handle. i realized i also have to put some sleeves in the bar stock to prevent crushing when tightening the cross bars that hold the bar clamps.
some more pics.

 

[BobL]

Looking good foursaps.

Your shoulders will appreciate it if you add another handle here.

 

[foursaps]

thanks for the suggestion, and to clarify a little, the powerhead will be on the side that is in the air.
i have another handle i made, but didn't have a bolt to mount it in the pic. there are holes drilled throughout the runners to allow me to mount it anywhere on the length, even where you suggested...

 

[DRB]

thanks for the pictures, really clears things up for me!!

so what is the difference between using a bolt in the middle of the rivets versus using a clamp positioned on each side of the rivets? is the bolt through the rivets just hand tightened, so as not to put pressure?

i am a little hesitant to drill a hole in the bar, as the saw is also used a lot for felling and bucking, does it allow debris to enter into the bar nose? my drill press doesn't exactly run slow, what rpm's are you running? i may end up purchasing a new bar if i decide to drill the hole, and use that for the bucking, and drill the current bar.

You can tighten the bolt up. The rivets in the center of the tip are holding the inner race for the roller bearings I think that's the way it works. Dirt should not enter the tip from the center hole not that I have noticed anyway. My drill press it to fast too. I drill the hole with a variable speed hand drill.

 

[BobL]

You can tighten the bolt up. The rivets in the center of the tip are holding the inner race for the roller bearings I think that's the way it works.

Correct.

Dirt should not enter the tip from the center hole not that I have noticed anyway.

Way more dirt will entrr via the chain than this hole

My drill press it to fast too. I drill the hole with a variable speed hand drill.

I used my drill press at 160 rpm, 120 would be better. Use lots of lube and high constant pressure. Don't let the bit turn in the hole without some cutting otherwise the steel will work harden and then only something like a die grinder will cut it.