What do you mean Lone wolf answer what?
Yet another MS200T issue.
- Thread starter paddy1000111
- Start date
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Nothing against you, I was just pointing out how unhelpful Rupe is.
Someone is looking for help, he thinks he knows what’s wrong (he doesn’t) and then let’s the OP wait. I see this in almost every post he does.
Just arrogance and he was totally wrong anyway.
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
I think that someone just pisses in Rupe's corn flakes every morning!
Rupe D is a good guy.I think that someone just pisses in Rupe's corn flakes every morning!
Stevesr is just upset because I called him on the reason for carb limiters.
Tom doesn't have enough time in grade for me to respond to this but I would like to say: I have been on this site about 20 years and helped more people than he will ever help with his "incomplete, one year of saw knowledge".
Tom doesn't have enough time in grade for me to respond to this but I would like to say: I have been on this site about 20 years and helped more people than he will ever help with his "incomplete, one year of saw knowledge".
20 years of experience and still offering the wrong advice and I have less than a year and offer better advice. 20 years is why you’ve probably become a little long in the tooth on here no doubt.
I still stand by starting with the basics - checking the metering lever height, triangular welch plug and check valve. Let us know what the problem turns out to be.
paddy1000111
ArboristSite Lurker
I just wanted a working saw guys, not a marital 
Thanks to everyone for their help. To be fair to Tom, he wasn't wrong, just covering all the bases.
When I'm back in the workshop at the weekend I'll tear the old carb down and see if I can get a look at the valves. I need to find a supplier in the UK for a H jet/valve and I'll do a comparison with a pressure/vac guage to see the opening pressure etc and compare new with old. Maybe it would be useful for someone going through this in the future if they could punch out the valve and check it with a guage against a known good parts spec and then fix their carb for a fer quid instead of a hundred!
Thanks to everyone for their help. To be fair to Tom, he wasn't wrong, just covering all the bases.
When I'm back in the workshop at the weekend I'll tear the old carb down and see if I can get a look at the valves. I need to find a supplier in the UK for a H jet/valve and I'll do a comparison with a pressure/vac guage to see the opening pressure etc and compare new with old. Maybe it would be useful for someone going through this in the future if they could punch out the valve and check it with a guage against a known good parts spec and then fix their carb for a fer quid instead of a hundred!
Hi everyone,
I've just got done rebuilding an MS200T and I am having a bit of an issue. I have followed the stihl manual for the rebuild using all genuine parts. Starting with the crankcase it was re-assembled with hylomar non-setting gasket and a new oem paper gasket along with the head and has all been pressure/vac tested (pass). I don't have a compression tester but when starting if I hit a compression stroke it nearly dislocates my wrist so it can't be too far off. The carb was stripped, ultrasonically cleaned and then re-assembled before pressure/vac testing (pass) using all genuine rebuild parts including the "pop-off" valve. It's had a new fuel tank and lines (no kinks and pressure/vac tested to check the breather is working) And before anyone asks, yes, I've connected the pulse line (can you tell I've been googling the issue)
The only "mod" I made to the saw was to open the exhaust itself up a little (I don't have a mesh filter) and I polished the ports on the head but made no adjustments to the port timing. I also made the intake port round and got rid of the lump inside. I followed the guidance of as many posts and videos as I could so I doubt that's the issue but I may be wrong...
In the way of tuning I followed the stihl manual to begin with- set idle to 3700, tune to the sweet spot then reduce the idle to 2800 on the L screw before setting the H screw to 14000rpm and it was sluggish. I then did the chainsawr and steves small engine saloon method by tuning the sweet spot at 2800 and then adjusting the H. It was better but its still sluggish to accelerate. I also don't seem to be able to retain 4-stroking at 14,000 rpm either and it sounds lean so I end up tuning to 13400 as 14000 sounds very smooth
The main issue I am having is when starting, it starts fine, usually within 3 pulls and then idles but if I even touch the throttle then it bogs and if I snatch the throttle it bogs and dies. If I allow it to warm up and get to operating temperature it's back to how I tuned it. I am at a bit of a loss, I've even tried to open/close the L and H screw when it's cold to see if it makes it run better but there's no change so it can't be tuning related. My only thought is it maybe a dodgy plug? I've had an engine do the reverse of this where it would bog and die when hot and that turned out to be a faulty plug, I've got a new one on the way to try.
Another interesting issue is it seems to run best when the L screw is all the way out (to the point it has no adjustment anymore) and then the idle set to 2800?!
As you can tell I am at a complete loss with it, hopefully someone here can guide me!
The closest I have got so far can be seen here although again, after tuning it wouldn't run cold:
Hi mate. You said that you used a Stihl manual for the rebuild...is it an online guide and if so do you know where I can find one?
cheers
Karl
paddy1000111
ArboristSite Lurker
I just used this:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1286913/Stihl-Ms-200.html
There's a download link at the top so you can have it in PDF. It's not a "rebuild" manual per-say but if you want to take off anything, check it to specs and install it, it's ideal. Also the torque spec section at the start is very useful! Other useful things are in there too like how to unscrew the ignition lead so you can replace it without buying a new module and helpful bits like that!
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1286913/Stihl-Ms-200.html
There's a download link at the top so you can have it in PDF. It's not a "rebuild" manual per-say but if you want to take off anything, check it to specs and install it, it's ideal. Also the torque spec section at the start is very useful! Other useful things are in there too like how to unscrew the ignition lead so you can replace it without buying a new module and helpful bits like that!
Thanks fella
paddy1000111
ArboristSite Lurker
Are you going to do a rebuild thread? Always interesting watching people rebuild stuff with lots of pics?Thanks fella
Sorry mate just seen this. No rebuild thread from me, it’s too involved lol. I did one for an 038 super that I rebuilt, whilst I enjoyed doing it and getting all of the associates responses and encouragement...it made the rebuild process slower and less fun. If I rebuild one of my less common saws that doesn’t already have a decent rebuild thread I will do that though. I’ve got a Dolmar CT that needs going through but that’s way down the list.Are you going to do a rebuild thread? Always interesting watching people rebuild stuff with lots of pics?
The saw is built and everything checks out, pressure, vacuum and compression. It sparks. All I need to do now is fuel up and try to start it...will the bastard carb work lol. LSENGINEERS want over £100 for a new one (which will be worth it if necessary) so I hope one of my three will do the trick
Hmmm...that didn’t go well.
The saw started on the fifth pull and promptly emptied its fuel all over the driveway.
Leak looked to be coming from where the fuel pipe/breather goes into the tank, but upon removing it there was no sign of damage to the pipe. New one on order
The saw started on the fifth pull and promptly emptied its fuel all over the driveway.
Leak looked to be coming from where the fuel pipe/breather goes into the tank, but upon removing it there was no sign of damage to the pipe. New one on order
pics.
Sorry dude the fuel line was removed from saw, looked at closely and then lobbed in the recycle bin at the yard. The filter looked clean but I retired these saws between 5 - 8 years ago (been sat in a pile since) I guess so the fuel line was probably in need of replacement
So its the double line one side fuel one side vent?
Yes. When the saw was sat on its base there was no leak, when clutch side down it looked to be leaking from where that line goes down into the tank...when flywheel side down it was leaking out of the flippy cap
Two new flippy caps coming and a new fuel/vent line...I forgot to order a fuel filter but I’ll ring them tomorrow.
You having any thoughts based on your experience?
Once the saw is good I’ll be getting rid of a loads of Ms200t parts; x3 of most things. I can box up and let u know the cost of shipping to you if you want. I’ll take a pic of all the bits first though so you can see if it’s worth it
...and if the new line doesn’t fix the leak I’ll have to take the handle off and very closely inspect the fuel tank itself for holes etc. I did look and thought I picked the ‘best one’ but I can’t remember details of why the saws were retired so who knows
Sure thing PM me when ready.Yes. When the saw was sat on its base there was no leak, when clutch side down it looked to be leaking from where that line goes down into the tank...when flywheel side down it was leaking out of the flippy cap
Two new flippy caps coming and a new fuel/vent line...I forgot to order a fuel filter but I’ll ring them tomorrow.
You having any thoughts based on your experience?
Once the saw is good I’ll be getting rid of a loads of Ms200t parts; x3 of most things. I can box up and let u know the cost of shipping to you if you want. I’ll take a pic of all the bits first though so you can see if it’s worth it
You could add a new impulse line, also check the 3 rubber mounts for cracks two at the top handle and one on the bottom of the side handle.
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