You gotta have nerve (and smarts) in this business!

[ORclimber]

Originally posted by JohnVander
To ORclimber
you seem to have a dismissive tone. I'm gonna be up in that tree and RB is not going to be there, are you going to help me or shoot me down.
John

I am trying to help save you from yourself. You can learn this biz so much faster working with someone experienced. You can only get so much out of books or off the internet. Having someone experienced train you will save you from having to learn from (as many of) your own mistakes. IMO it is important to form good work habits starting out. Those habits will be your default. When you're tired, uncomfortable, and preoccupied you're only as good as your default. Just my opinion. My way of trying to help, instead of watching you "walk in front of a bus".

Red alder has weaker wood than most deciduous species around here, a step up from cottonwood though. Its hinges don't hold as well the softwoods, and it's prone to barberchairing. Be carefull climbing in wood smaller than 5" diameter, I'd recommend piecing out the tops in small pieces by hand or lowering them off another tree.

I own 3 gibbs and 2 microascenders, and wouldn't dream of repelling off them. A friction hitch would perform better.

 

[ROLLACOSTA]

JOHN VANDER shame you cant get us some pics..im not kidding if i was starting out id have paid RBTREE to go work[and learn] from him.i get the feeling no disrespect that your jumping in at the deep end..you need either to work with a pro or get some proper training..this game aint no job in an office

 

[dbeck]

Sorry if I missed any advice, but did you take a metal rod (rebar or a ground rod) and probe the ground around the stump? are the any low, major past pruning cuts? any work w/ machinery within the last 5-10m yrs? Make sure you have proper root structure for support!
If there is any decay, be careful!!!

 

[JohnVander]

I got two of the eight trees down today(the ones that bothered me). I did as you said ORclimber, peiced out the top, notched the main lead (15' and brittle) and dropped it. The other tree that I was using for rigging I just climbed and topped also. Both of the trees had nice healthy wood at the top (no worries for snapping), I think I just had too much coffee yesterday and was nerved out. I also think these trees are taller than I originally thought probably 55 to 75'. I got some pictures and will post them pretty soon. We also have two trees that are sorta hard leaners over a fence and I'll probably pass on those, if anybody knows a good freelance guy in Seattle who wants to make a quick buck buy getting them to the ground I' d sure appreciate if you could give me their number.

Thanks
John

 

[rbtree]

Originally posted by ORclimber
Sounds like you don't know your wood, or how to tie a friction hitch.

It's been suggested before, go work with RBtree. Bribe him with salmon if you have to. It could save your life. At the very least it'll make your life easier.

Did somebody say salmon?!!

I'll take 10 Copper River sockeye...packed in iced and flown down special....oh yeah.....


John, the windstorm slammed us with major work...and dinero!!! See pics on MB's ongoing "party started" thread. Email me, I know some guys that could help ya..they're pretty good...and not as swamped as me and perhaps affordable.

Course I'd work for virgins......

What ya wanna do on those spindly alders, is look for an 80 footer, crooked, under 16 at the butt, leaner, reduce it to a stick..and then start 'er rockin'....Now we're havin' a wobbly good time! Much like the famous "Wobbly Barn" nightclub at Killington Vermont Ski area.

 

[Gord]

Wobbly alders are not much fun...I would never want to get too comfortable with them. They're really not such weak wood, though they are very prone to barberchairing. Watch for dead tops, we see a fair bit of that around here. They seem to develop dependable root structure, I've seen many large ones growing horizontal from a bank for the first 10 or 15' and then on a good lean after that. Excellent firewood and a pleasure to split if it's not too knotty.

I've been on many that the wobbliness makes it difficult to snap of bypass-cut lengths when chunking to wood...heh a great confidence destroyer for those thinking they're comfortable in gaffs.

 

[Bradley]

John, what type of climbing line setup are you using? Are you hanging off a Gibbs the entire time? How do you descend?

 

[JohnVander]

I'm using spikes, and lanyard with the Gibbs and climb line as a secondary safety.

John

 

[Bradley]

So are you on an SRT line with the gibbs or is the gibbs on your lanyard? Is your climb line DdRT? What hitch are you using if so?