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You hit the nail on the head...most of the time that's the cause. I found that out by the school of hard knocks.

To clean it out...just put some nuts and bolts in it and rattle them around. Then slosh a little gas and pour out a few times till it pours clean.

I never heard about Redcoat. I looked it up, and I may try it next time. Looks good.

I would coat the inside of a metal tank with a product called, "Kreem". I have several metal 5 and 6 gallon gas cans and outboard gas tanks that I have cleaned and coated. This stuff is great. Shop around for a good price, Amazon, etc. http://www.kreem.com/fueltankliner.html

I think the Stihl is the best. Then probably an Oregon. Oregon also has different classes of bars from homeowner to professional and you get the quality you pay for.

I can see the crossover skills you have and your interest in the field is a good thing. It puts you above most other people that want to do this sort of thing. Why not apply with some of the big tree companies...Davey, etc...and start with them. You would start on the ground, and with training...

Oh, I did not know that. That's pretty neat!

Here's a couple non Stihl's up for bid...I would search around since there's more out there... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-2-USMC-Gas-Cans-Blitz-2-1-2-Gallon-9-5-L-with-Spouts-Good-Condition-/271292659907

I recommend getting the little book called, "The Tree Climber's Companion". It's one of the best investments you could make. Read it, learn it...live it. It's the best book out there... Baileys...one of the sponsors has it...

I don't think I would do it. I think the boiling water would weaken the fibers. Maybe do as mentioned and let it soak but in warm water. The washing machine is good when your wife is out shopping...

I would guess if the stump is bigger, you would just move and re-drill the portion of the stump you did not get. I would think if you hit a rock or steel, going as slow as it goes you would have more time to react than with a regular grinder? It looks like they have different blade lengths for...

Actually called a stump cutter...pretty fast huh? Levaceppi Rotor S Stump cutter New Holland NH 8870 - YouTube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JtUoJ_Z3Zks John Deere 8100 and Rotor S stump grinder - YouTube

Funny stuff! Lordy...Where's this thread going to go now?

Why can't Dan do the normal wedge cutout and back cut...then knock in wedges to fell that tree? That's the way I would do it. You can do a really slow controlled fall with several wedges hit a little at a time.

MCW...This is what Oregon offers... http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdf/sprockets/RimSproxFB0601.pdf

With the 20 inch bars...you could go with a sprocket with less teeth such as a 6 or 7 tooth and get more torque for those saws. I'll bet they are 8 tooth...

Hi Mike...No, at the shop they are different brands. Mine are all Stihl's. Lambs...I think I may try them on the sides, then. They don't leak at the caps. Seems prudent anyways...

One of the places that works on chainsaws near me usually sets them on their sides. With the bar facing down and the gas/oil caps facing up. That makes sense...since the gas and oil caps will not leak because they are up. Would placing a saw in that position cause any problems...such as more...

They sell those toilet roll filters in the JC Whitney catologs. I use my used oil in my wood stove in the winter. That's the best way to start a fire is by using 3 quarts or so at a time and some old newspaper. I wonder about the cost of STP and used oil verses just buying bar oil in the...

I run 40:1 in my saws, weedeaters, and blowers. all the same mix. That's very interesting about 25:1 making a leaner mix. I would never have figured that.