Anyone tried these Nova II points/condenser replacements ?

[Okie]

GOT A TEST OF THE ELECTRONIC CHIP (CHIPS)
Rhey were listed on ebay for $24.99 for two. When they came the box indicated part number 31-8786, made in TAIWAN.
I installed first chip with neg ground into a McCulloch 1-53 and it lasedt total run time of about 4 minutes or less. Started real good on 2nd pull accelerated good, I killed engine after it warmed and it readily started first pull. I set the saw outside on ground idling real good and smooth and was acting real good. I was in shop cleaning hands and saw died all at once. I cranked few times and no go. I checked the ignition fire and none. Disconnected the chip's wire from the mag, installed the new points wire to the mag and she started first pull.

I installed the 2nd chip (labeled NOVAII on the heat sink case) and when I attempted to start it would almost rip my wrist off and when pulled thru on the compression stroke smoke would come out the exhaust (indicating out of time)
I swapped the polarity from neg ground to pos ground and pulled thru little bit easier and started and was idling faster than the points and the other failed chip, idling fast enough that chain was rotating fast. I killed the saw and pulled it to compression stroke and whn pulled thru it had kick back of pull rope but eventually started and reved up good.

I was going to run a electronic chip to replace points and condenser because the points cam rubbing block was worn down on the saw to where the points would not close good at the spec of .018. I got a new set of points and was able to get good test run and points closure by setting them to .016 instead of .018. The points were erratic closing at .018 and would not close at all at .020.
I got good running operation at .015-.016 and had to call this good.

Summary of my test of these electronic chips: $24.99 out the door and no reliability and got differents results from two same part number TAIWAN CHIPS.
I'm staying with old school points and condenser for use on MY old style points chainsaws.

 

[AVB]

For some reason I have never had any luck with Rotary parts which what the 31-8786 part number is. I even had problems with their v-belts not fitting as spec.

It good to know that it didn't work out for you as have never tried them on chainsaw before and that being my luck it would be the same as yours.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I don't change one over to the chip module unless I have to. If the saw has points and condenser sometimes I change the condenser if it's real old.

 

[tomdcoker]

I have used chips on several saws and have bought several Stihl 028 saws that had chips on them. I think they are OEM to the 028s. I have never had one to fail. Some of the chips are marked stihl and some are Nova I think. Tom

 

[Snowchaser]

I had the first two novas quit right away so i switched to the johndeere/kawasaki one. Its a one wire so you just run the ground to the mounting screw. #m70114 i think. Put in 5 so far. Run the heck out of my 031 and 032 for a couple years now. Also put in 2 other 031's, homelite 150 and 051av. Mounted them in the air box. Drilled a hole in the back corner so its a short run to the coil. Ground wire off one the coil bolts. Just check your saws polarity before crimping your ends on. Heat shrink tubing to keep the wires from rubbing through.

 

[Okie]

I don't change one over to the chip module unless I have to. If the saw has points and condenser sometimes I change the condenser if it's real old.

I will start doing the same. (staying with points and condenser on my old saws.
After this experience testing with the electronic chips I'll stay with the old school points and condenser also. (especially when two chips with same part number do not even act the same. I've had same experience with trying to use aftermarket electronic ignition parts on auto engines, usually don't last very long and I've seen the same thing happen with the timing changing when changing or changing to aftermarket auto ignition modules, especially on the 70-80 Fords. I've converted old auto engines to OEM electronic ignition with good results but always ran into reliability issues with aftermarket cut rate foreign made clone electronic ignition parts.
I've also seen the points ignition system condenser go bad on old autos and small engines and they can really cause some erratic issues when a condenser gets erratic. If I suspect a erratic condenser under a flywheel I've added a test condenser to the points mag wire outside the flywheel and get a good test run to confirm it's a erratic or bad condenser. I have condenser/capacitor testers but better to test sub with a new one.
I found some NOS McCulloch points from flea bay for $5 set, much more reliable than TAIWAN electronics.
I did not notice made in Taiwan on the box until I seen the second failure. (was on the box in real small letters) I went looking for a possible made in CHINA stamp after the 2nd chip experience and when I seen Taiwan I immediately knew I got my answer.
I try to stay away from China made products but they are here to stay and it's getting worse.

I'm in contact with the seller of the chips but they are not offering and tech advice or sympathy yet and have not offered a refund. (several vendors use the NO REFUNDS ON ELECTRICAL OR ELECTRONIC PARTS as an excuse for no refund) I would not have purchased in first place if I had known it was MADE IN TAIWAN.

Another one to chalk up to experience gained, not much lost on this one.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I don't actually replace the condenser with OEM part, I've been using the WIMA capacitor which works very well. I think there's a post somewhere on AS about that.