Anyone tried these Nova II points/condenser replacements ?

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Okie

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Looking for experienced opinions for replacing the points/condenser on chainsaws using the electronic chip method?
Chips are like from this link or equivalent? http://www.lilredbarn.net/product-p/8786.htm

Useage would be on Stihl 028's, Homelite EZ but mainly on the old McCulloch 1-41, 1-43, 1-53 series of chainsaws.

Does the timing still seem to be ok for easy starting?
Are the chips reliable?

See these on ebay in USA for $13.49 and free shipping , says nova II type?
ebay number 250831136597
 
Just get a used 029/ms290 coil for the 028, just bolt it on and go, hook up the kill wire. I have used the Oregon box on echo 500 and Stihl 032, if that is what you want to know. Maybe others will chime in on
which chip they used on which model as well.
 
Just get a used 029/ms290 coil for the 028, just bolt it on and go, hook up the kill wire. I have used the Oregon box on echo 500 and Stihl 032, if that is what you want to know. Maybe others will chime in on
which chip they used on which model as well.

Need to know about the 1-53 (1-40, 1-50 series) McCulloch's. I have one that appears maybe the cam crank lobe for the points is worn down some. If the points are set at spec of .018 they don't make good contact. Have to set gay to around .014 to get point to close. Will run then but not good probably due to timing being off at .014.
 
I have used the nova II on two 031's and they did the trick. Just had to watch polarity and had to adjust timing a little but got the old saws running on the cheap.
 
I have used the nova II on two 031's and they did the trick. Just had to watch polarity and had to adjust timing a little but got the old saws running on the cheap.

How did you adjust the timing?
I seen the polarity indicator (+ and -) for the chip you mention on you tube.
The magneto on the McCulloch 1-53 can only be changed by varying the air gap from .010 specs in and out, the mag is not slotted to change its position cw or ccw in direction of flywheel magnet rotation or changing the spark plug gap from spec of .030.
Timing on the old McCulloch 1-53 was normally changed or adjusted by varying the point gap from .018.
 
I just removed the flywheel key and rotated it. Due to it having a tapered shaft I just tighten it good when I get it where I want. Never had one slip yet. But that's just what I do.
 
I've used several of the Nova IIs and other types also. For the most part they're pretty good. Like said earlier the 031 has to have the flywheel advanced about an inch measured at the outside edge. I've had a couple of chips fail shortly after start up but I assumed they were factory rejects. Hardest part on some saws is finding a place to mount them. It's best to mount it in a relatively cool place and ground the body of it good.
 
I have used 2 or 3 and they worked good.. The only trouble I had was on a 031. I cranked it and it sounded like it was running in a drum. i brought the front of the saw up and a six inch blaze was coming out of the muffler. Changed the polarity and it was fine. Tom
 
After some searching and a hint from a guy over at PPETEN site I seen a guy on you tube, a Lee Smith from lilredbarn.com installing one on a McCulloch saw.

When I went to their site they had two different types of chips a single terminal and a two terminal and I asked him which one and he said he preferred the two terminal because the polarity of the two terminal (+ and-) can be changed whereas the single terminal is fixed. I sent him another question asking him how he determined which polarity was needed on a 2 cycle not electric engine and he never replied back.
My guess is if you see the saw breathing fire like a dragon, (like you say) setting the woods on fire and fighting and snapping back like a third monkey on the ramp of Noah's Ark try changing the polarity.
 
Basically what your needing to know is if your ignition system is positive or negative grounded system. This is affected by which pole magnet initial charges the coil fields. Most new modern electronic triggered coil are negative ground.

I don't remember which pole leads as it has been long since I needed the info. One way to find out is to use a compass placed flat against flywheel magnets. The North pole will attract the North arrow of the compass. Try checking a flywheel from a saw engine that uses a electronic trigger and compare to the McCullough flywheel. If the two has the same polarity then I wound think the Nova ii would need setup for negative ground.
 
McC has a chip in his 250, runs very strong in the vintage saw races in Baraboo, WI each year.

I prefer to stay with the point and condenser but I haven't run into a word cam yet. I have a small drawer full of chips, some I bought thinking I would try them and some that came of saws I have picked up. I suppose one day I will mess with them just for the experience.

Mark
 
Ok about pole magnets and rotation into the magneto determining polarity of ignition. I've witnessed the old positive ground automotive ignition systems (ford autos and Farmall tractors with positive ground systems) when a coil got connected with wrong polarity, ignition system very unstable.

I ordered a electronic chip, 2 terminal and will report back after I get a test.
 
I bought two of the NOVA II electronic chips from flea bay (this number 250831137647
for $25 for both and free ship and installed as negative ground into the McCulloch 1-53 this evening and it started on 2nd pull and runs and starts real good and strong. Only took few minutes to install.

Thanks to all for input replies.
 
I installed it like the guy suggested on the you tube video at the bottom of the housing. Had to drill a 6/32 screw mounting hole in the bottom of the aluminum housing on a flat part of the housing. It has a very good heat sink flat clean aluminum surface and the chips ground wire is attached to the same place as magneto ground wire under a mag mounting screw and the heat sink chips metal mounting portion is on a good clean flat aluminum heat sink type surface and it is in the cooling air flow path of by the flywheel.

Some videos show the chip mounted using one of the magneto mounting screws but this does not look very good for heat sink type cooling of the chip.
I'm always suspect of the long term performance of any electronic ignition stuff that is not OEM.
Been their on old auto's converted from points to electronic ignition. (and I'm a electronics tech)
 
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