Sorry but there are no 5 foot DBH cedars where I work. Why weren't cedars of any value, just because fir was the target?
Humboldt or non Humboldt.
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sILlogger
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to go along with this ive found that if i cut a conventional notch that is not as tall but goes deeper into the tree that i am able to get it to jump off the stump. one of the main times that i needed this was when i was dropping a large red oak 25 ft off of a rock ledge down in between some other rocks..i had to do it this way so the skidder could get to it. especially when dropping a tree down a hill it allows for the tree to land softer because it will kick of the stump and shoot down the hill and take some of the energy away from the fall-therefore preventing potential splitting. where a shallower & not as tall conventional notch will allow the tree to stay with the stump. i use both methods depending of the tree and the situation that im in. keep in mind these are just some things that ive noticed. 
smokechase II
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invaluable cedars
The cedar wasn't valuable then. In many places, they have gone back in and harvested those down cedars, even though they have rotted a little on the exterior.
I saw where four cedar thieves in Washington got caught the other day. (One was a convicted sexual felon and another had warrants.) The cedar was valued at over $80,000 commercial and I think it was over $900,000 ecological.
Myself, I got lucky and bought 1 x 12 rough out 8' to 12' boards for board and batt siding for a buck a bd ft last year. Pays to have relatives with a mill in Western Oregon.
The cedar wasn't valuable then. In many places, they have gone back in and harvested those down cedars, even though they have rotted a little on the exterior.
I saw where four cedar thieves in Washington got caught the other day. (One was a convicted sexual felon and another had warrants.) The cedar was valued at over $80,000 commercial and I think it was over $900,000 ecological.
Myself, I got lucky and bought 1 x 12 rough out 8' to 12' boards for board and batt siding for a buck a bd ft last year. Pays to have relatives with a mill in Western Oregon.
smokechase II
Addicted to ArboristSite
jumping
One trick that can be used to get a tree to jump off the stump is to use a conventional undercut that is wide. 50 degrees or so.
On the flat place a flat rock or whatever is handy that takes up 1/3rd to 1/2 of this gap in the widest part of the face. Then don't leave too much hinge, but leave some. Don't be cutting all the way through as it goes.
You want that hinge to provide some resistance when the top of the face connects to the rock insert, but weak enough that it will pop. You want the face a bit wide to make sure that you get momentum working to make it pop. But if you go with a really wide face, I.e. open face 70-90 degrees, the Pop and jump is too late.
This jump effect helps firefighters constructing helispots or fire lines move tree butts away from those projects. Breakage isn't an issue.
If one limits themselves to Humboldt or true Open Face technique, you'll never get to do this distance jumping.
I need to mention that this jump technique is somewhat limited to trees with height and/or weight that make their descent powerful. Also dead or brittle wood doesn't provide the pop needed.
One trick that can be used to get a tree to jump off the stump is to use a conventional undercut that is wide. 50 degrees or so.
On the flat place a flat rock or whatever is handy that takes up 1/3rd to 1/2 of this gap in the widest part of the face. Then don't leave too much hinge, but leave some. Don't be cutting all the way through as it goes.
You want that hinge to provide some resistance when the top of the face connects to the rock insert, but weak enough that it will pop. You want the face a bit wide to make sure that you get momentum working to make it pop. But if you go with a really wide face, I.e. open face 70-90 degrees, the Pop and jump is too late.
This jump effect helps firefighters constructing helispots or fire lines move tree butts away from those projects. Breakage isn't an issue.
If one limits themselves to Humboldt or true Open Face technique, you'll never get to do this distance jumping.
I need to mention that this jump technique is somewhat limited to trees with height and/or weight that make their descent powerful. Also dead or brittle wood doesn't provide the pop needed.
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Used to make shingle and shake bolts out of old logs dragged out of the woods. Amazing how good condition especially from wet areas up here.300-600 dollars a chord for clear shingle bolts. All came from a ranch I worked on. Great way to make money if you can find the wood legally.
