Humboldt or non Humboldt.

[Sprig]

Yup, as I understand it its sortta like this ( < ) with more angle on the lower cut x2, I use this a fair bit as it comes naturally, bit harder to do but I think safer as far as jumping the stump with less potential of rolling on the stump as it falls too imo, etc.etc.. One of the old links posted showed it well, maybe one of the OSHA sites (?), like a 70degree opening, um 20 at the top and 50degs on the lower cut, do stand to be corrected fer sure, usual back cut about 1" above the notch line, same rule of thumb for depth of notch, 1/4-1/3 in the tree.



Serge

 

[adkranger]

Yup, as I understand it its sortta like this ( < ) with more angle on the lower cut x2, I use this a fair bit as it comes naturally, bit harder to do but I think safer as far as jumping the stump with less potential of rolling on the stump as it falls too imo, etc.etc.. One of the old links posted showed it well, maybe one of the OSHA sites (?), like a 70degree opening, um 20 at the top and 50degs on the lower cut, do stand to be corrected fer sure, usual back cut about 1" above the notch line, same rule of thumb for depth of notch, 1/4-1/3 in the tree.



Serge

Actually a true Humboldt the first(top) cut on the "notch", or face cut is horizontal and the second cut(bottom) is angled up from ground to meet the first cut. It is easier rolling the stem off the stump with this method, sometimes a benefit when dealing with wide crowned hardwoods that have a nasty habit of hangin' in tight stands. Another benefit is it can be easier to "steer" some hardwoods on the way down, Elm and Hickory come to mind. When cutting verneer logs it is the prefered method since you will lose less trim off the butt log, your notch is out of the stump, not the log. This is important on eastern hardwoods since we don't have the vertical log "real estate" to give away that you western folk have....... (though it appears the western front has use for it too)

I believe what you are refering to is an Open face cut, where neither of the two cuts of the notch (face cut)are horizontal. This does have the benefits that you mention.

Not trying to nit pick, just trying to help those who asked ?s.

 

[GASoline71]

It's easier to gun the tree as well...

Makes for an EZ-PZ lay...

Gary

 

[manual]

Makes for an EZ-PZ lay...:hmm3grin2orange:



I find myself using the Humbolt cut more and more.
Because I don't have to deal with the knotch when splitting up the first round.

 

[PA Plumber]

Parden me fore being dense...

On level grade where you want to keep the stump low/flush, the humbolt can still be used?

I can sure understand using it on a slope for keeping meet on the first log.

 

[PA Plumber]

Here's a pic..

A Humbolt could have been used here to get more log?

 

[SawTroll]

I use it only on slopes, when felling the tree downhill.

 

[adkranger]

Here's a pic..

A Humbolt could have been used here to get more log?

Yes.

 

[adkranger]

Parden me fore being dense...

On level grade where you want to keep the stump low/flush, the humbolt can still be used?

I can sure understand using it on a slope for keeping meet on the first log.

You can still use the Humboldt on flat ground and leave a relatively low stump, but you'll sacrifice face opening. In other words the lower the cut the slimmer, narrower your face cut will be. Generally not an issue but you'll have to assess each situation as the faster the face closes, more stress to hinge wood sooner. Type of wood being cut, exposures, landing zones, wind, escape routes, all things to consider. Practice on small trees or trees with no exposures(crunchables), flat ground is usually safer to practice on.

Once you're comfortable with laying out a Humboldt, you'll like it for many situations. On many hardwoods it affords nice, controlled targeting. You can get more pulling in the center though, but on a veneer log the $$ are on the outside.

 

[PA Plumber]

Yes.

You've got me interested.

Okay, So too keep good hinge control for my situation (Hemlock) a larger face is better. If I want more speed on the fall, I could use a Humbolt, with a small face, and get better velocity to help with "hang-ups."

 

[Al Smith]

can anyone explain what a humbolt is exactly? Im curious.

An upside down notch,so speak .I think it's more of a west coast thing for tripping trees on a slope.I think in theory this type cut is supposed to launce the fall ahead of the stump thus attemting to prevent the tree from sliding down hill causing the sawyer to make a hastey exit before he gets crushed.

I've only used it a very few times myself being on the flatest stretch of land on the planet .Even flatter than Kansas ,which is hard to believe but true.I don't do real good at it so I don't use it very often,can't seem to gun the danged tree very good using this cut.Probabley a learning disability on my part.I might be able to get the hang of it if I stood on my head or something.

 

[daemon2525]

I might be able to get the hang of it if I stood on my head or something.

If you do actually try that, I want pictures! :jester:

 

[superfire]

humbolt or common

common more log value slower tree falling speed
humbolt slight log value reduction faster log falling speed
Cheers Mates

 

[Al Smith]

If you do actually try that, I want pictures! :jester:

Ha,well that would be better than the old picture of Gypo in his chaps.One thing about standing on ones head is that it gives a somewhat different view point of things.I really don't think I can do it any more because the flat spot on my noggin has grown round over the years.Kinda reminds me of the old joke of a 3 foot tall woman that owns a liquer store but I don't think I'll go there.


Now ya see how this goes,from humbolts to flat heads in one fell swoop.

 

[PA Plumber]

snip

Now ya see how this goes,from humbolts to flat heads in one fell swoop.

"Felling" is on topic. "Swooping" is a little off.

 

[2dogs]

Superfire could you explain your post? Thanks.

 

[ray benson]

Some notch pictures and explanations.
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/manual/felling/cuts/notches.html

 

[Wortown Mick]

Some notch pictures and explanations.
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/manual/felling/cuts/notches.html

Rep +

Went through and found alot of very helpful info.

Yea yea safetys a four letter word , right up untill somones seriously injured.
Being 20, I probably have less safe habits than the majority of the site. And I tend to be a clown at work from time to time. I try to remember that at any given job anyone can voice a red flag and investigate.

On the note of notches, I strictly open face.
Maybe its my inexperience, but it takes an extra minute.. Felling being the event with the highest potential for catastrophe, the extra minutes worthhile to spend making sure the trees going where you want it to.

But thats just my opinion.

-Pat

 

[Sprig]

Actually a true Humboldt the first(top) cut on the "notch", or face cut is horizontal and the second cut(bottom) is angled up from ground to meet the first cut. It is easier rolling the stem off the stump with this method, sometimes a benefit when dealing with wide crowned hardwoods that have a nasty habit of hangin' in tight stands. Another benefit is it can be easier to "steer" some hardwoods on the way down, Elm and Hickory come to mind. When cutting verneer logs it is the prefered method since you will lose less trim off the butt log, your notch is out of the stump, not the log. This is important on eastern hardwoods since we don't have the vertical log "real estate" to give away that you western folk have....... (though it appears the western front has use for it too)
I believe what you are refering to is an Open face cut, where neither of the two cuts of the notch (face cut)are horizontal. This does have the benefits that you mention.
Not trying to nit pick, just trying to help those who asked ?s.

Thankyou AKranger, that clears that up fer me, always was a wee bit confused on the terminology. I believe you are correct on the advantage of a more controlled fall with wide crowns as I have experienced this too, as well as having trees spring back on me (time ta change the drawers) when not open-facing, the openface cuts or humbolts seem to lessen this effect. But as it is with falling there are a tonne of variables to watch out for, so keep on workin' safe y'all! :chainsawguy:



Serge

 

[PA Plumber]

I'm sure I have seen it written before, that some folks like to gun with the horzontal cut first. From reading the link, that sounds like the preferred method for the Humboldt.

I guess with practice you can get the bottom cut to line right up.

I am going to have to try this and see how it goes. Good advice to start on something smaller. I'm guessing a 25" dbh Hemlock might be a bad "learner" tree.