CrappieKeith
Addicted to ArboristSite
wait......I'm not done.
Testing and marking a percentage is a joke on furnace or a stove.
ok......lets all get the same double wall insulated high temp flue and lets all burn at the same elevation with the same moisture content in the air.
Next lets all get the same sized home with the same amount of insulation and construct the same ducting.
Next lets get the same wood and the same dryness level. Then we will set our stats to the same temp and load them at the same frequencies.
Lastly lets all have the same air temp outside so we all have the same call for heat.
You are going to have numbers that are all over the board so do not kid yourself about how effcient your stove or furnace actually is compared to the bill of good sold to you by some stove company.
There's only so much heat available to you from biomass which is all of the same. Corn,pellets,logs,hay,acorns,coal.
A pound is a pound.And a pound at 20% moisture makes 8000 btu's...period.
The best you can buy in a heater that burns biomass is a bunch of thick dense brick.3200 degree rated are very dense.In the case of an OWB the water is the thermal mass bank.
You want a bunch of heat exchange surface area.
Cycling burn rates help give the unit time to exchange those heats made.
A draft regulator will slow down draft speeds.Any stack temp hotter than 400 is a waiste.
Last a reburn or after burn to make those extra btus .
Should you get a unit that does these things you will have a clean burner and it will give you great heat.
Testing and marking a percentage is a joke on furnace or a stove.
ok......lets all get the same double wall insulated high temp flue and lets all burn at the same elevation with the same moisture content in the air.
Next lets all get the same sized home with the same amount of insulation and construct the same ducting.
Next lets get the same wood and the same dryness level. Then we will set our stats to the same temp and load them at the same frequencies.
Lastly lets all have the same air temp outside so we all have the same call for heat.
You are going to have numbers that are all over the board so do not kid yourself about how effcient your stove or furnace actually is compared to the bill of good sold to you by some stove company.
There's only so much heat available to you from biomass which is all of the same. Corn,pellets,logs,hay,acorns,coal.
A pound is a pound.And a pound at 20% moisture makes 8000 btu's...period.
The best you can buy in a heater that burns biomass is a bunch of thick dense brick.3200 degree rated are very dense.In the case of an OWB the water is the thermal mass bank.
You want a bunch of heat exchange surface area.
Cycling burn rates help give the unit time to exchange those heats made.
A draft regulator will slow down draft speeds.Any stack temp hotter than 400 is a waiste.
Last a reburn or after burn to make those extra btus .
Should you get a unit that does these things you will have a clean burner and it will give you great heat.
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Please help!!
