Stihl Chainsaw Recommendations

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I'll be the odd man out. My big saw is an 036 (similar to 362). I usually run a 16" but use a 20" on larger wood. I will admit I've never run a 461 but the 036 seems to handle all I need for a firewood scrounger. Prior to that was a Jonsereds 49SP (50 cc). I've cut my share of 30" + oak. If I was making a living at it maybe a larger saw. For firewood I'm happy with what I've got.
Agree with you.

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For a firewood cutters prospective a wrap handle gets in the way. I understand on the Stihl's you get the HO oiler, but I would not bother with them. For straight ground work they get in the way. I have run the 461 a bit at my old job and it works well for what it is. Never thought it was too harsh vibration wise, but it is not as smooth as a husky 372 X torq or 576xp. I like the 441 or 442 better. They are a bit smoother and really are no slower with a 24 in bar. Cannot speak to reliability of them or compare to the 362. I like the 361 Stihl a lot for what it was, it worked well with a 20 inch bar.

But, working on an arborists crew I noticed that the saw that got grabbed first was a 260 or 261, cannot remember, with a 20 in bar, then the Husky 372, Stihl 661 and the 461 was the saw that only got grabbed if the other saws had issues. Interestingly the 372 got put out of service a few times for choke issues. I was always able to pull the top cover and pop things back together, but they really hate having the choke ripped on. The other saws only seemed to have issues if they had the chains trashed.
 
For a firewood cutters prospective a wrap handle gets in the way. I understand on the Stihl's you get the HO oiler, but I would not bother with them. For straight ground work they get in the way. I have run the 461 a bit at my old job and it works well for what it is. Never thought it was too harsh vibration wise, but it is not as smooth as a husky 372 X torq or 576xp. I like the 441 or 442 better. They are a bit smoother and really are no slower with a 24 in bar. Cannot speak to reliability of them or compare to the 362. I like the 361 Stihl a lot for what it was, it worked well with a 20 inch bar.

But, working on an arborists crew I noticed that the saw that got grabbed first was a 260 or 261, cannot remember, with a 20 in bar, then the Husky 372, Stihl 661 and the 461 was the saw that only got grabbed if the other saws had issues. Interestingly the 372 got put out of service a few times for choke issues. I was always able to pull the top cover and pop things back together, but they really hate having the choke ripped on. The other saws only seemed to have issues if they had the chains trashed.

Did you say Stihl 442??

As far as I know there's no such thing. And the 441 is NLA.

I agree about the wrap bars for ground work, but the OP is a leftie.
 
If you only need a 20" bar a 36 series is fine but if you need more than that regularly you will want a 044/440/441 (only available used now) or 046/460/461. I just skipped that cc class and got a 660. Company I work for uses 461s as the workhorses. They are powerful and reliable. Also have an mtronic 362c and everyone hates it.
 
Did you say Stihl 442??

As far as I know there's no such thing. And the 441 is NLA.

I agree about the wrap bars for ground work, but the OP is a leftie.
I thought the 441 was still a thing. I liked it, surprised it has not been replaced yet. And left or no, I would NOT run a full wrap left handed. I am ambidextrous and have felt the temptation but I would always avoid it when possible. For a firewood guy, its safer to just run it as a righty. The saws just do not handle right being run lefty.
 
First of all, I’m glad to be a part of this site. I have been browsing and doing searches and have had a lot of my questions answered.

As the title suggests, I am in the market to purchase a new saw. Stihl has the best dealers and service in my area so I will be going with that brand. I heat with wood and need a saw to take care of my firewood needs. I live in a heavily wooded area and can usually get access to free butt ends from the local loggers.

I want a saw that has all the power I will ever need. I have used the Farm Boss saws for all the cutting I have ever done but it has its shortcomings. I plan to run a 20” bar or a 25” bar. I would most likely keep the 25” on the saw most of the time. I am left handed and it seems the wrap handle would be best suited for me (I have used saws with the standard handle for 15 years but if I am spending the money it might as well be the most comfortable it can be).

I am between the MS 362 R C-M and the MS 461 R. My goal is to purchase a saw that will last me for many years to come without any major repairs. I understand the tradeoff of power and weight between the two. The electronics on the 362 doesn’t scare me as I haven’t heard anything too bad about it. I do not need to purchase the saw at this exact moment and will wait if Stihl is releasing something that will be better than either of these two saws. Does anyone have some insight on any new pro saws in the 60-70cc range that may be coming out?

Sorry for the long winded post. I didn’t want it to be another “which saw should I buy?” post without putting in all the details.

I'll be the odd man out. My big saw is an 036 (similar to 362). I usually run a 16" but use a 20" on larger wood. I will admit I've never run a 461 but the 036 seems to handle all I need for a firewood scrounger. Prior to that was a Jonsereds 49SP (50 cc). I've cut my share of 30" + oak. If I was making a living at it maybe a larger saw. For firewood I'm happy with what I've got.
must be a PA thing @sundance luv my 036.
i'll second the 036/ 361/362 for a good all around saw. i run my 036 for anything big with a 20 inch bar and no problems. the 361 is nice withe the anti-vibe. never ran a 362... yet. good luck with your STIHL choice. are you overwhelmed yet @Nicholas Johann?
 
My 2 cents is this. For a 25" bar, get a 460 type saw. I'm a firewood cutter myself and only own a 460 w/ 28" and a 361 w/ 20". I use the 361 90% of the time for personal firewood cutting. I only use the 460 when I get a big 24-36" log from work and need to buck it down to firewood length.

I do use the 460 for other tasks besides firewood which is why I have it but I could buck those big logs with the 361 if I had to.
 
Was this whole thing aimed at me because I asked who makes 20" lightweight bars? I was just asking because I didn't think they made them that small. I don't see the point because I'm young and strong and like the balance of a normal 20" bar. Cr888 was the guy who recommended a 461 with a 20" lightweight bar. Not bashing you Cr888. I don't plan on a lightweight bar unless its long and helps balance and needed wieght reduction. I don't think you helped our new member at all with your post. Maybe you drank more than me last night. Ron, what saws and bar combos do you run?
Heck.....they make 10" light weight bars.
 
I tell ya I had same debate myself.... I bought a new ms461, and I couldn't be happier.... will last me forever as I use my ms362the most.... my ms461 wears a 20" and 25" bar... it will pull the 25" In any hardwood Indiana has with NO PROBLEM....
I didn't know how much I would use the ms461, but I DO NOT regret the purchase at all, saw makes cutting and noodling the big stuff EASY and FUN...
 
I tell ya I had same debate myself.... I bought a new ms461, and I couldn't be happier.... will last me forever as I use my ms362the most.... my ms461 wears a 20" and 25" bar... it will pull the 25" In any hardwood Indiana has with NO PROBLEM....
I didn't know how much I would use the ms461, but I DO NOT regret the purchase at all, saw makes cutting and noodling the big stuff EASY and FUN...

Good post here. For me, as a firewood cutter, fun is important. I can buy cut and split firewood for pretty cheap around here. If firewood wasn't fun for me, I wouldn't do it. I've spent a lot of time with a 20" bar on an 036 and a 361. Admittedly I've never run a 362. The 60cc saws do the job. They'll even pull a 25" bar if needed. To me, though it's a little blah. Put a 20" bar on a 460, though, and I'm grinning every minute. To me, that's worth the price difference. Of course, I bought most of my saws used. When I sold my 361, I only had to add $120 to buy a 460.

Now, another option that no one has mentioned is ported saws. A ported 362 would cost about what a stock 461 would cost you. It'd pull the 20" bar with total authority and be quite a bit lighter than a 461. Just something to think about.
 
I'm not the biggest Stihl fan, but I really like how the 461 feels and revs (like a small 385). If'n it weren't more than double my budget, I'd get a 461 in a hurry.

i thought the same thing except i still own some 390's and the 461 is gone :D all were/are ported of course ;) i still own some 660's too though. :givebeer:
 
I own a 660 24" , 084 30"&42", 261 16", 200t12"/14"and have a 361 20"/6701 20" echo in the work truck.
Bought the 660 as a all in one firewood saw to never be caught lacking power, but enjoy the 361/261 which the husky vibe and lighter have their place but will jump up a saw if I have to make more then 2-3 full bar cuts.
I did have a 20" on the 660 for a while as the 24" was too long for cutting branches stacked of top of each other.

If it's a new 461 16"-20" & 28/32 Es light can always fit the smaller bar on a 026-362 saw later if/WHEN CAD kicks IN.
GOOD LUCK HAPPY CUTTING
JAMES

Sent from West Coast AUS
 
Yay 461 another grenade built by stihl!!! They should survive a few tanks a year though! Video and pic compliments of my buddy who runs a stihl dealer. He said the issue has been quite common. He apparently replaces the wrist pin with one from a 460 as it is the actual pin wearing not the piston????? Thank god for husqvarna lol



1a9ff8a274d970af92abf96b09b77652.jpg
 
Doesn't the 461 have a single bearing in the rod with the pin pressed in the piston as opposed to two bearings in the piston? If so, the piston shown above if representative indicates a sizing issue at Stihl, does it not?

Ron
 
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