Fiskars Super splitting axe review

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I'm sure that it can, but not sure how (depleted uranium tip?).

It also raises the question of whether the wedges on powered splitters could be improved to allow them to split tougher logs, with less force, etc. Most of them were probably designed to be 'good enough'. or for durability or simplicity to make, not optimized for splitting.

Philbert

To Philberts point on the edge of the axe. The Fiskars is super sharp compared to lets say a standard splitting maul. Is there a wood wastage factor based on the edge of a axe? I have seen some log splitters with very sharp edges and some with less then sharp edges. Would one particular edge lend itself to more wood shavings which equals more wood being wasted in the form of small chips or shavings? Something to think about.
 
Would one particular edge lend itself to more wood shavings which equals more wood being wasted in the form of small chips or shavings?

Don't think wood shavings are an issue with splitters. Takes one piece of wood and splits it into 2. There might be an issue with one dulling faster than another, or one working better in one type of wood (species, size, frozen, etc.) than another.

Philbert
 
Don't think wood shavings are an issue with splitters. Takes one piece of wood and splits it into 2. There might be an issue with one dulling faster than another, or one working better in one type of wood (species, size, frozen, etc.) than another.

Philbert

maybe a off topic or should be put in splitter thread but even with a axe there are small pieces that fall off that do not make it to the stack pile. A hydrolic splitter is more prevelent to wood shaving and chips.
 
Hone with a RL="http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6042"]dry or wet stone[/URL]

Your right again Akkamaan.

I cut down a number of dead maple trees on Monday while my trails were still snow covered. I skidded them out with my tractor, bucked them and started splitting the rounds.

I split a few of the rounds on the ground and ended up with a few small chips on the cutting edge of my FSS axe. From now on I will use my splitting stump with the two tires nailed to it-much easier splitting with no axe edge damage.

I tried sharpening the FSS with my Fiskars sharpener but I found the FSS edge was too large to fit into the sharpener groove. So, I used my $10 round axe stone and brought back the edge better then new.
 
i have read alot of this , but to keep me digging deeper , how well does this axe work on harder to split wood . like elm ? h
 
I've got a lot of wood to split this month so I've ordered a "Super Spliting Axe", all I can say is, it better be Super!! If not I blame all of you on AS!!! :dizzy: :)
 
You are correct, but I had read all the tips here and on other sites and watched the movies. I simply went out to try it on a couple medium sized rounds before it got dark. The biggest problem was that I didn't compensate for the shorter length of the axe (I usually split with a much longer 8# maul). For the big rounds in your video, it seems that the axe swinger compensates for the Fiskars' shorter handle by using his back to extend the reach of the handle and lengthen the swinging arc--bigger arc means the axe head's path of travel would go into the ground farther away from the feet. I think that's why folks wish it had a longer handle.

Perfectly correct. I cut my foot with the Fiskars Super Splitter EXACTLY in the same spot you did (see avatar). I just got it and was swinging it like a 6 lb long handle maul. BIG mistake. It glanced off a log and arced into my foot, cut thru boot, etc. No stitches but I still have a small scar.

Since then I've been leaning out more and striking straight down and have had no problem. It's a good tool but can also be a sharp-tongued mean little ##### if you don't watch out.
 
i have read alot of this , but to keep me digging deeper , how well does this axe work on harder to split wood . like elm ? h

Good question. I've got some 8-10" rounds of American elm just cut that the Monster Maul just bounced off of. I was going to saw them up into smaller pieces but will try the Super Splitter first. I'll be surprised if it can split elm. That stuff is impossible. Glad I don't have much of it.
 
I have a one and love it. Great for driving plastic wedges.
I also cut my self pretty bad with it, helping my son split some huge black willow blocks that were punky. The ax went through the block like a hot knife through butter and cut through my pants into my shin. I wanted to finish the job before we headed home so i bandaged my leg and kept going. Finally had to stop because my boot filled up with blood. My wife took me to the emergency room for stitches.....5 of them.
 
Yeeeouch!!!

I have a one and love it. Great for driving plastic wedges.
I also cut my self pretty bad with it, helping my son split some huge black willow blocks that were punky. The ax went through the block like a hot knife through butter and cut through my pants into my shin. I wanted to finish the job before we headed home so i bandaged my leg and kept going. Finally had to stop because my boot filled up with blood. My wife took me to the emergency room for stitches.....5 of them.


I've had a couple near miss' now I'm really gonna be mindful...take care dude.
 
I tried splitting wood on the ground with the FSS but I just ended up chipping the axe's edge and having the axe glance off my rounds a few times.

So, I started always using my two-tire splitting stump. It's safe and effective and the added bonus is that you never have to pick up the split pieces and reposition them on the stump.
 
Good question. I've got some 8-10" rounds of American elm just cut that the Monster Maul just bounced off of. I was going to saw them up into smaller pieces but will try the Super Splitter first. I'll be surprised if it can split elm. That stuff is impossible. Glad I don't have much of it.

The fiskars in dry oak will stick and I had some black oak that was giving it more problems then worth the effort. For the first time since I bought the fiskars I put the monster maul to the wood and the same blocks were splitting with 2 to 4 well placed swings. I imagine the fiskars will not split elm any better then the monster maul.
If I could only have 1 it would be the fiskars. Most of the green wood I split , with the fiskars it was much less effort on my part with significantly less impact on my body through the handle. It stashes in the vehicle with out the bulk and it is comfortable to reach over and grab it to pull out of the truck or tool box with 1 hand any where on the tool.
I haven't come close to cutting into myself . I try too keep my legs apart which puts me closer to the ground (I'm 6') and my feet farther away from the proposed striking area. Would like to try a longer handle myself as I believe it would have advantages.
It may have been mentioned already , but I will confirm I myself have hit a few knotty green pieces hard and the axe head bounced back within 6 inches of my forehead so use caution when hitting tough pieces at high speeds.
 
1st Year

Been burning this past year for the first time. I have had the True Temper splitter (busted the back of the head already) and an 8 lb maul this year to split roughly 3 cords with. I just bought the Fiskar Super Splitter a few weeks back, and I wish I had it last fall when I got started splitting!

One other problem I've noticed with the lighter ax, if I am working on a really tough log, I've had the ax bounce back .. nearly to the point that I thought I was going to knock myself out! Wouldn't that be fun to explain to my insurance company? :)
 
I've had the ax bounce back .. nearly to the point that I thought I was going to knock myself out! Wouldn't that be fun to explain to my insurance company?

Yeah, but what would really make them bust a gut laughing is when you continue on, "then after passing out I dropped the axe, which is how I amputated my toes..."

:hmm3grin2orange:
 
Got the axe and gave it a blast today in some knotty stuff, really seemed to work well. Did have one near miss, but raised my block up and it works fine. Thanks everyone for bringing this axe to my attention, I think it will save me a good deal of effort this year!
 
I got mine yesterday and tried it on 24" white pine. Didn't do much. Ace sunk in .5 inch and pused water out. Almost couldn't see the mark when I pulled it out. Hope it works better when it dries.

Tried it on 10-12" chestnut oak and it blew right through. Same on some hackberry. Overall, it looks good, but maybe not for the big nearly live ones?
 
Anybody used the Fiskars sharpener for the super splitter???

If we are talking about the same thing... "the rolling stone" sharpener


honestly I have one and I love it....BUT not for my Super Splitter....this is basically a kitchen knife sharpener, it has been around for like almost 30 years as a knife sharpener... I bought my first one in the 80's....nothing can beat a fine flat file together with a dual wet stone, course and fine......use the file to fix the dents...
 

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