The Great WI 50cc Challenge

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That is an informed decition that I approve of - but I hope you don't state that 3/8" is better than .325 on a 50cc saw because of it - that would not be fair! ;)

I think that the very first post in this thread shows that your statement would be true for a 346, but not for a 5100. I think 5100 has the torque to run the 3/8 better than the .325. :popcorn:
 
I think that the very first post in this thread shows that your statement would be true for a 346, but not for a 5100. I think 5100 has the torque to run the 3/8 better than the .325. :popcorn:
There are other results that is different, and the exact model and state of the chain are large factors compared to the power and torque difference between those saw models - that info is missing here, as I remember it. :)

If the .325 rims are 7 or 8-pin also is important info, that is left out (both options really should have been tested).......
 
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There are other results that is different, and the exact model and state of the chain are large factors compared to the power and torque difference between those saw models. :)

I figured it would take a little while to answer with all the commotion going on in the other thread.
I just believe that the two saws have different torque curves and they pull better with the respective chains. The bars and chains were the same on all the saws in the time trials we ran. It also shows the difference to be pretty small and really not worth a whole lot in deciding which chain to put on the saw. More of a personal preference and not a performance edge.:chainsaw::cheers:
 
I think that the very first post in this thread shows that your statement would be true for a 346, but not for a 5100. I think 5100 has the torque to run the 3/8 better than the .325. :popcorn:

325. 7 pin and 3/8. 7 pin with new chain on 16" bar was 1 to 1.5 seconds slower than 325. 8 pin with 5100 cutting 13" round.
 
There are other results that is different, and the exact model and state of the chain are large factors compared to the power and torque difference between those saw models - that info is missing here, as I remember it. :)

If the .325 rims are 7 or 8-pin also is important info, that is left out (both options really should have been tested).......

Troll, got to agree with you, it makes no sense with the saws so close in power if one cut faster with .325 the other should too. There's something kind of fishy why the 5100s didn't. I don't buy the 5100 has more torque theory, if it does it should have cut faster than the 346. I'd lean towards the state of the chain, maybe to tight, a tad dull, brand new chain on a brand new bar with a little more friction for a few cuts or whatever. Steve
 
I'm a believer

Checked out the difference with some Canyon Oak I was holding out on. 3/8 felt so much better in the cut. It felt smooth and in dense hardwood to boot. Go figure.

I've seen the light:greenchainsaw:

16" 325 v 18" 3/8 both 7 pin

I was pushing on some and letting the saw do it's thing on others.


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Troll, that's exactly why I went with 3/8 on mine. Good .325 chains are hard to come by around here, and 3/8 is easy, so that's the direction I went. A lot of the saw shops/hardware stores don't want to sell "yellow" chain to John Q Homeowner, so they only stock the good stuff in 3/8 for the "pros".

Here as well, but it is well worth the trouble! :givebeer:
 
I figured it would take a little while to answer with all the commotion going on in the other thread.
I just believe that the two saws have different torque curves and they pull better with the respective chains. The bars and chains were the same on all the saws in the time trials we ran. It also shows the difference to be pretty small and really not worth a whole lot in deciding which chain to put on the saw. More of a personal preference and not a performance edge.:chainsaw::cheers:

Sure, but personally I find low end torque quite uninteresting - if you need that, you should have used a larger saw! :givebeer:

The main difference between the 346xp and the 5100S is handling and trigger responce (accelleration) anyway - where the 5100S totally falls on its face, in comparison! :popcorn::givebeer:

If you mostly just buck logs in the yard, the 5100S is perfectly OK (and the only thing I use mine for, after some initials trials in the woods).......
 
Sure, but personally I find low end torque quite uninteresting - if you need that, you should have used a larger saw! :givebeer:

The main difference between the 346xp and the 5100S is handling and trigger responce (accelleration) anyway - where the 5100S totally falls on its face, in comparison! :popcorn::givebeer:

If you mostly just buck logs in the yard, the 5100S is perfectly OK (and the only thing I use mine for, after some initials trials in the woods).......

I think the point that is trying to be made is that the situation where you should have a larger saw comes a few inches sooner with a 346.Ron
 
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Sure, but personally I find low end torque quite uninteresting - if you need that, you should have used a larger saw! :givebeer:

The main difference between the 346xp and the 5100S is handling and trigger responce (accelleration) anyway - where the 5100S totally falls on its face, in comparison! :popcorn::givebeer:

If you mostly just buck logs in the yard, the 5100S is perfectly OK (and the only thing I use mine for, after some initials trials in the woods).......


Yea here we go. I've never seen a 5100S fall on it's face,it's one dam nice saw, why slam the 5100 just to make your 346 look good?
Trigger responce? and handling? you know thats a lame excuse...
 
Sure, but personally I find low end torque quite uninteresting - if you need that, you should have used a larger saw! :givebeer:

The main difference between the 346xp and the 5100S is handling and trigger responce (accelleration) anyway - where the 5100S totally falls on its face, in comparison! :popcorn::givebeer:

If you mostly just buck logs in the yard, the 5100S is perfectly OK (and the only thing I use mine for, after some initials trials in the woods).......

Niko, fatten up that low speed screw and it should liven up the trigger response.
I haven't noticed that being a problem on any 5100's.:chainsaw:
 
Checked out the difference with some Canyon Oak I was holding out on. 3/8 felt so much better in the cut. It felt smooth and in dense hardwood to boot. Go figure.

I've seen the light:greenchainsaw:

16" 325 v 18" 3/8 both 7 pin

I was pushing on some and letting the saw do it's thing on others.


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Just another vid where the operator wanted the 3/8 to come out ahead. Try that in some 14" oak and put a little load on the saw when running the .325 instead of letting it scream along. Steve
 
Am not taking but sides but doesn't this 5100 vs. 346xp stuff amount to a $400 saw vs a $500 saw? The 346 costs about $100 more as far as I can tell and people still buy it. Doesn't that pretty much answer the question?
Don't shoot the messenger. Even though I would love to have a 346, I would be unlikely to spend that much on a saw. If I decided that I was more comfortable with the price of the Dolmar (and that is very likely), I would not then declare that I actually owned the better saw.
 
Paul Bunion Thats what we have said from the get go that it is more user preference than anything:)
 

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