Stihl 361 Problems

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Cut wood for a living? Extra cash? Firewood?
I work out deals with local tree guys for firewood, so I cut very little, which is
good. I just work on the ???? things, I don't want to go home and use one.
 
Noah,
In the cut as you describe there would be no oil on the external parts of the chain, only a light film on the rails and in the rivet areas...maybe some on the drivers. The wood would scour the rest off.
In dimmer light I can see sparks off of a bar that has lasted over a decade. One of the laminate ones. Over 130 cords of firewood. Still going strong...knock on wood. The better indicator of insufficient oil is bar temperature. Smoke coming off the bar would be an extreme indicator.
If I'm not mistaken, there are winter bar oils available. It's pretty mild here in Va., so I've never looked any further for them.
 
laminate

Everything out the door under a 440 gets a laminate bar, unless I know the operator is a pro user. Then I sell a pro bar, the operator needs it.
As far as the bar rails, I am grinding no more bars than I was before.
Certainly I warranty a bar that fails in the time limits. But they are few and far between. The failures after warranty are down also, the usually wear out first. And, no, I do not believe prematurely.
 
I've re-read the thread and a couple of things come readily to mind.  First, Noah got a fair amount of use out of a saw and then got all his money back.  There should be nothing but praise for Stihl on that.  It by far beats the "crown commitment".  Granted, there were some difficulties and aggravation along the way, but looking at the big picture I'd have to say Noah got treated really well.  In fact, it almost sounds as if he got all his firewood put up and now won't need a saw until later...

Sparks from the bar/chain cutting "seasoned cherry, walnut and oak" doesn't sound too terrible (not getting into the question of how can wood be seasoned when it hasn't even been split and stacked yet).  Dry wood, and wood that's sort of punky, will wick oil appreciably, so an occasional spark shouldn't be too alarming.  And there are many variables we don't know.  Was the chain thrown and re-installed without checking the drivers for dings/burrs/bends?  What condition is the chain kept in otherwise; is it always sharp or maybe only slightly dull; maybe worse?

Just some random thoughts, blah, blah, blah.

Glen
 
Only have 1 bar with no grease hole in the tip not counting hard nose bars. The non grease-able tip gets an extra squirt of oil each time the saw is gassed up. Any time I see sparks when cutting it invariably means FOREIGN object in the wood.Mostly nails and screws in the residential trees.
 
...Any time I see sparks when cutting it invariably means FOREIGN object in the wood.Mostly nails and screws in the residential trees...

Hi Ray,

I get my firewood from a company that makes potting soil. They use bark in there mix thus have to buy log ends to get bark. They take the bark and leave me the stumps and pieces.

They pile the unused wood then during the AZ summers the wind blows sand into the pores thus when I cut, I dull a chain pretty fast and do get alot sparks from the sand.

I'm getting less sparks using my new MS361 than I did with my Pro Mac 610 with a manual oiler. That tells me I had been using way to little oil with the PM 610.
 
Visible sparks from the chain / bar don't have to indicate lack of lube or metal to metal contact. The chain is quite open to pick up abrasive particles in the gap between roller nose and bar and drag them back over the bar rails. The lineal spead of the chain is high enough to create sparks the same as you see off steel exposed to the abrasive grit of a grind stone or a dangling chain on a vehicle at night.
 
Hi Frank, the sparks we see on our saws, could they possibly be caused by the ignition system not being grounded? Sorta like not getting out of your car during a lighning strike or when overhead wires fall on the car?
This is why we have rubber dampers between powerhead and tank, not so much to reduce vibration, but mainly to stop electrocution to the operator.
This is why an 090 should never be used barefooted.
So as you can see Frank, you do not know the facts about electrically supercharging a chainsaw.
John
 
I encountered similar problems with my maglev bar/chain system, as the
saw became superconductive, and it would store electricity in the chain
loop.
To protect the user, we came up with a Mobil synthetic rabbit's foot,
which also cures gout.
Also we use 219 octane fuel, because the saw would ping badly otherwise
 
Gypo Logger said:
Hi Frank, the sparks we see on our saws, could they possibly be caused by the ignition system not being grounded? Sorta like not getting out of your car during a lighning strike or when overhead wires fall on the car?
This is why we have rubber dampers between powerhead and tank, not so much to reduce vibration, but mainly to stop electrocution to the operator.
This is why an 090 should never be used barefooted.
So as you can see Frank, you do not know the facts about electrically supercharging a chainsaw.
John

I`m sorry John but it`s apparent that you don`t fully grasp the concept either. This is obvious because you failed to note the application of this principal on Elux saws which don`t use rubber bumpers but instead use metalic springs to transfer the full potential of this combined ignition and static charge from the bar/chain assembly to the incoming air. This electric charge to the incoming air combined with the Turbo air filtration results in up to 300% more energy derived in the powerstroke in any given displacement category.

To prevent electrocution of the operator, Elux uses dielectric polymers in and on the handle assemblies, but the rear handles have been known to melt on occassion due to the high electrical resistance of this plastic. I recall that you had this happen to you, didn`t you?

Russ
 
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Ah yes, the mag/lev bar and chain. A system concept hatched before it`s time. The synthetic rabbits foot almost made it viable but you have to admit that the system still produces the occassional nasty flashburn.

Russ
 
Fish said:
I encountered similar problems with my maglev bar/chain system, as the
saw became superconductive, and it would store electricity in the chain
loop.

That seems to be a fallacy perpetuated by Kentuckians sipping moonshine.What you may be experiencing is an intermittent sudden loss of magnetism. Thus, causing the chain to fall to the bar creating the sparks. Careful alignment of the bar and chain - and try not to overburden the cryogenic cooler with your liquid refreshment. Hope this helps.
Ray
 
jokers said:
I`m sorry John but it`s apparent that you don`t fully grasp the concept either. This is obvious because you failed to note the application of this principal on Elux saws which don`t use rubber bumpers but instead use metalic springs to transfer the full potential of this combined ignition and static charge from the bar/chain assembly to the incoming air. This electric charge to the incoming air combined with the Turbo air filtration results in up to 300% more energy derived in the powerstroke in any given displacement category.

To prevent electrocution of the operator, Elux uses dielectric polymers in and on the handle assemblies, but the rear handles have been known to melt on occassion due to the high electrical resistance of this plastic. I recall that you had this happen to you, didn`t it?

Russ

What model is it that has no rubbers at all?
As far as this electricety is concerned, I do not get it. Do you mean static electricity, or from ignition, what we call "crawling electrical fields", or just short circuit?
This was interesting!
 
Mange said:
What model is it that has no rubbers at all?
As far as this electricety is concerned, I do not get it. Do you mean static electricity, or from ignition, what we call "crawling electrical fields", or just short circuit?
This was interesting!

Concepts only understood after ingestion of aquavit...lots of aquavit.
 
Mixing synthetic bar oil with liquid nitrogen is difficult enough, but finding
a saw with a truly superior bar oiling system that could handle it was the
most difficult. That is why my engineers decided to go with the
Eager Beaver for our prototype saw.
 
I have been observing some unusual cranial electical activity from gypo since his myocardial infarction. I wonder if they got some of the leads reversed during the eloctrocardiograms and knocked his brainwaves out of kilter. Might be in for some electro shock therapy to put things right.
As to Jokers hypothesis I'll not say yea or nay till I consult with Glen!
 
Crofter said:
As to Jokers hypothesis I'll not say yea or nay till I consult with Glen!

Sure Frank, consort with the dark side. Meanwhile I have a few more glasses of aquavit to drink to help clear my thoughts and get in the Yul spirit.

Russ
 
This must be why my ms200t won't cut as fast as my 088kd, even though they both have 16" bars on them.

Maybe I need to "sharpen the blade" on the 200t?:p
 
Fish said:
Mixing synthetic bar oil with liquid nitrogen is difficult enough, but finding
a saw with a truly superior bar oiling system that could handle it was the
most difficult. That is why my engineers decided to go with the
Eager Beaver for our prototype saw.

I believe that this was also tried in the Remington Mighty Mites when first introduced. It was tested on the Mighty Mite to provided both fire supression along with chain lubrication. The shear power of the saw produced never seen before chain speeds that required the use of the liquid a nitrogen/synthetic bar oil mixture along with additional tackifiers. The additional tackifier needed to be added to keep the mixture from being thrown off the chain and on to small pets and squirrels freezing them in the cutting area.
 
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