Oil

[Andyshine77]

I used to run the synthetic Mobile 2T in my enduro bike. I could go across country and always pick some up at a petrol station. Then for some reason Mobile stopped selling it in Oz, so I started using the synthetic Shell 2T for the same reason.

I decided to continue using the Shell 2T in the chainsaw. I figure it is a good synthetic oil by a major petrol chemical company that is used in various competition and street bikes (thus a high detergent level). Maybe when I finish the last two bottles of the Shell 2T, I will try some of the other more exotic oils, but it is hard to argue with 20 years of success.

Mobil 2T was one of, if not the best 2 cycle oil ever made. No it wasn't an ester synthetic but it was more than enough for the temperatures most 2 cycle engines produces, and it's ad pack was off the chart.

As some of you have found TCW 3 oils burn at different temperatures than oils made for air cooled engines, so it's not a good idea to run TCW3 oils in air cooled engines, to say the least.

Klotz makes awesome oils, with incredible film strength. However Super techniplate, Benoil and Original TechniPlate are best used in race engines running nitro or alcohol. In a normal 2 cycle engines excessive carbon buildup will likely occur. Normal 2 cycle engines simply don't run hot enough to burn the oil correctly.

Ester syn oils are the best of both worlds, unbeatable film strength yet they burn very clean, and with modern additives corrosion is kept to a minimum. One needs to understand castor and plant or fruit based oils like Original TechniPlate and Super techniplate are hygroscopic. They are not recommend as storage lubricants because they can cause rust issues in engines that aren't used every daily.. However most ester oils have proper additives that prevent corrosion even though they are to a less extent hygroscopic. You'll never have any corrosion issues with modern ester based oils like Maxima K2, or Klotz R50 to name a few.

 

[komatsuvarna]

Im surprised 32:1 is as popular as it is. Im guessing most of you fellas that run that rich do it for extra protection in hot rod saws??

 

[Scandy14]

I run Stihl Ultra @45:1, with 93 Octane.

I heard an old timer say one time, "oil is cheap, why cut corners on a piece of equipment that has cost you hundreds, possibly thousand of dollars"?

Made perfect sense to me.

 

[John R]

I use the Stihl Ultra, my dealer now sells it in gallon jugs.
That keeps the cost down a little.

 

[mdavlee]

I've been using stihl ultra mixed at 40:1. I picked up a bottle of motul to try. It's not but a tiny bit more than stihl ultra from the suzuki shop. I'll probably go back to stihl ultra as I've not had any problems at all with it in non ethanol 93 and some 89 non ethanol.

 

[Kwdog75]

I use Woodland Pro Synthetic at 40:1 , which reminds me, I'm down to 1 bottle left, need to buy some more.

Gregg,

Same here.

 

[sachsmo]

Best bang for the buck,

Yama-Lube 2R
$7 bucks a quart, if you are concerned with cost, ya can't go wrong.

I used Mobil1 2T for years, but since we ran out it is 2R, or more recently Klotz Super tecniplate, or R50, $13 bucks a quart. That is super cheap if you figure the cost of those little shot glass containers per quart.

Lots of great oils, always err on the high side when mixing 50:1

 

[tooold]

I have run many types of oils over the years in chainsaws, snowmobiles, jet skis, ultralights, atv's, weed wackers, etc. Some of the oils are: Spectro, Golden Spectro, Belray MC-1+, Yamalube, Yamalube R, Caster oil, Stihl, etc. When I was working in the shop, I would see both clean and carboned up engines and would ask what oil they were running. It seems the higher grade syn's or blends were MUCH better than the cheap oils. A fellow mechanic ran with a bunch of enduro bikers were hooked on the Belray oil. They tore their bikes down often "just to look at stuff" so they knew which oils were clean. I would NEVER run caster oil in anything but a race engine that was being tore down every 1 or 2 races. That stuff will really carbon up an engine.(smells good though)

 

[sachsmo]

I have run many types of oils over the years in chainsaws, snowmobiles, jet skis, ultralights, atv's, weed wackers, etc. Some of the oils are: Spectro, Golden Spectro, Belray MC-1+, Yamalube, Yamalube R, Caster oil, Stihl, etc. When I was working in the shop, I would see both clean and carboned up engines and would ask what oil they were running. It seems the higher grade syn's or blends were MUCH better than the cheap oils. A fellow mechanic ran with a bunch of enduro bikers were hooked on the Belray oil. They tore their bikes down often "just to look at stuff" so they knew which oils were clean. I would NEVER run caster oil in anything but a race engine that was being tore down every 1 or 2 races. That stuff will really carbon up an engine.(smells good though)

So true on the bean oil,

Super Tecniplate is about 20% and I got some from the recommendation of a Klotz Engineer for my e85 saws.

Since most all pump gas has at least 10% ethanol and the techniplate mixes well with ethanol seems like a win/win.

You just can't beat the smell of bean oil, smells like,,,,,,,,,,Victory!

 

[tooold]

Just remember, when you change the oil mix ratio, your fuel to air ratio also changes. The more oil you put in the mix, the less fuel will be going through the carb jets. The more oil...the leaner the fuel.

 

[sachsmo]

Just remember, when you change the oil mix ratio, your fuel to air ratio also changes. The more oil you put in the mix, the less fuel will be going through the carb jets. The more oil...the leaner the fuel.

No worries there Bro'

I run 110 in all my other stuff, and can hear 4 strokin a mile away!

 

[DHIBBS75]

TO be safe I run factory stihl 2 stroke oil standard 50:1..... Havent tried syn yet.. been using 87 but going to upgrade to 93..... 08f150 runs 93 and I tried it and liked it.......

 

[Roofgunner]

I run the Amsoil 100 to 1 Sabre and I recently got some of their new anti-alchohol additive called "Quickshot" since there's 10% ethanol in the gas. I mix it with 91-93 octane BP. I'm not a professional logger, but I run this in the weedeaters and the saws. Have not had any problems and the engines/mufflers stay clean.

 

[c5rulz]

I use Woodland Pro Synthetic at 40:1 , which reminds me, I'm down to 1 bottle left, need to buy some more.

Gregg,

:agree2:

I just switched to Woodland Pro synthetic As the DolKita calls for synthetic and mix with premium, Kwik trip gas which has no ethanol.

Figures since I have a bunch of Stihl connventional left.

 

[Andyshine77]

I run the Amsoil 100 to 1 Sabre and I recently got some of their new anti-alchohol additive called "Quickshot" since there's 10% ethanol in the gas. I mix it with 91-93 octane BP. I'm not a professional logger, but I run this in the weedeaters and the saws. Have not had any problems and the engines/mufflers stay clean.

I've seen the piston out of chainsaw that was run in Amsoil @ 100:1 I'd pass.

 

[Andyshine77]

Most who run modded saws run 32:1. The added RPM's, heat and enlarged ports gives you less margin for error. More oil also promotes ring seal and ,more oil = more power.

 

[sachsmo]

Aye Cappin'


More oil-Better ring seal.

 

[jfm]

i use quicksilver with no ethanol gas.

 

[Andyshine77]

Quicksilver is TCW3 outboard oil correct? If so I would not recommend running in air cooled engines.

 

[jfm]

it is outboard oil i use in my yamaha oil injected 2 stroke. maybe ive been getting lucky not blowin up my saws and such. im gonna take your advice and try one of these oils suggested on here. dont want to come back later and say you were right with a blown saw.

Quicksilver is TCW3 outboard oil correct? If so I would not recommend running in air cooled engines.