seeking input on my Husqvarna 345
- Thread starter echo271
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272super
ArboristSite Operative
You can do a muffler mod. They help just about any saw wake up. Make sure your compression is 140-150psi. If it's lower you could change the ring to bump compression back to normal.
Do you have any suggestions on type or where to buy I've never made mods to a chain sawand the compression on the saw should be good its only 3 months old just seems to lack power cutting sand pines
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
Is the chain sharp? If not any saw is useless
zogger
Tree Freak
If you bought it at a box store, chances are it is running not quite right. It will be adjusted/tuned to "pass emissions" but not for really cutting wood. Take it to a dealer and have them adjust it.
You can use the search on muffler modding and then tuning yourself at home. Hundreds of threads on that, even a google search will have half the threads be from this site.
It is also most probable you are using homerenter safety chain, which won't cut quite as well as professional chain. Many site sponsors here sell pro chain, your choice there, or tell the husky shop you want a couple loops of "pro" chain. And learn to sharpen well, very important, especially using a smaller saw. the same husky dealer will have a hand held sharpening device that does the cutters and the depth gauges at the same time.
I mean it is very important using any size saw, but you'll really notice a dull versus sharp chain with smaller saws very quickly.
After that....you'll probably want to step up to a professional XP model saw, if you hang around here much. Then you'll have a lot more power in a similar sized and weight package. The classifieds here have them come and go on a regular basis.
You can use the search on muffler modding and then tuning yourself at home. Hundreds of threads on that, even a google search will have half the threads be from this site.
It is also most probable you are using homerenter safety chain, which won't cut quite as well as professional chain. Many site sponsors here sell pro chain, your choice there, or tell the husky shop you want a couple loops of "pro" chain. And learn to sharpen well, very important, especially using a smaller saw. the same husky dealer will have a hand held sharpening device that does the cutters and the depth gauges at the same time.
I mean it is very important using any size saw, but you'll really notice a dull versus sharp chain with smaller saws very quickly.
After that....you'll probably want to step up to a professional XP model saw, if you hang around here much. Then you'll have a lot more power in a similar sized and weight package. The classifieds here have them come and go on a regular basis.
o8f150
Tree Freak
you need to open up the muffler aka muffler mod and pull those dang limiters,, it will wake it up more then you think
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
You don't need to use it much to dull the chain hitting the dirt one time can dull the chain. If you want that Husky to cut like an Echo you gotta put the chain on backwards:hmm3grin2orange:
Trouble is, Nothing you do will make that run as good as those Echos!~
zogger
Tree Freak
Well, muffler modding will void the warranty, but if you don't care, ton of threads here on that subject. The general principle is open up the exhaust flow so it is approximately 80% of the volume of the exhaust port in the cylinder. You need to remove the muffler, then..whatever it takes to do that. Mufflers are all different, I am not familiar with the layout of that particular model.
copy and paste these lines into google search box-one at a time of course good luck man! You'll need to retune after your mod, which will no doubt result in your trimming the limiter tabs on the carb, and getting the splined carb adjusting screwdriver tool to do this.
muffler mod husky 435 site:arboristsite.com
carb tool husky 435 site:arboristsite.com
limiter tabs site:arboristsite.com
Probably not all that cost effective to have anyone port that saw (a few hundred bucks...), but you can read up on that and see if it is something you might want to get into yourself, at least the simpler first steps of widening intake and exhaust ports.
I have a similar saw from a few years back, their entry level at the time 137 model. It cuts pretty good, excellent actually for a small saw, but I make sure it has a real sharp chain and I never lean on it, just let the chain cut and keep the rpms up. It won't cut worth beans with a dull chain and pushing it. It has to be finessed to find the sweet spot with the wood, then it works pretty well. There's not a ton of power there to rely on, so you have to use a little more technique to make it cut to its potential.
Modern saws for the most part ship choked up bad to "pass emissions". It's up to you how far to go to unchoke them.
Yes, around the L & H screws to prevent unlimited adjustment. The T idle screw (Husky) is not limited, it just controls idle speed, not the fuel/air ratio.
Of note, on a Husky you need a special splined socket driver to adjust L & H, cheap (~$7) on eBay.
Yoopermike
ArboristSite Guru
Most of the ones ive seen do have the splines but they also have a slot in them for a screw driver.
I too find my 345 to be a very good small saw. Sharp chain and lowered rakers make quite a bit of difference. Not going to see the performance you get from a 60 or 90cc saw, but in its place the 345 should do you very well.
Hal
Hal
16 inch bar and I think its refered to as a chisel chain but not to sure still a little new to all of this and am only familiar with echos
stevephillips
ArboristSite Member
I've got a 345 I bought some time ago at farm supply store, the employees of which didn't know which end of a chainsaw cuts, and which end you hold. I had to adjust the high speed idle with a splined tool I bought from ebay. But it runs great now.
I'm mechanically inclined but wasn't sure if it was like porting and polishing heads on a car or something completely different
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