If you were to buy a new saw 60 cc and under

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KenJax Tree

KenJax Tree

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Uhh...? Just last night you flamed me for trying to fell and buck 14" DBH trees with a flimsy 550xpat 16"! I may have been drinking a few, but I have a pretty good handle on what has been written. .
Actually you don't know what was written because you never mentioned any size you just said in the woods felling and bucking. 16"-18" a 550 will do it just fine. Have a couple more:givebeer:
 
Red97

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Ok guys let it be And lets list one saw I believe xskier is 362 over 550. And Kenjax likes the 550 lets move on please.
 
zogger

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[QUOTE="Red97, post: 5100122, member: 123245

Scenario tree Hard maple Pictured between barn and trailer. Imagine it in an open field and 16-18" at stump

1 saw drop/limb/buck. Go[/QUOTE]

Bushy trees like that, I make like a barn fulla holsteins and milk em dry! Ton of nice firewood there that don't need splitting, so my bias would be for the smallest lightest saw, because most of the cuts would be in the branches, not the main trunk. It'll still fell it and buck the trunk, but the work is in those branches, so you want fast and light as possible. So I'd go with the hotrod 50, your choice of flavor.
 
Red97

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[QUOTE="Red97, post: 5100122, member: 123245

Scenario tree Hard maple Pictured between barn and trailer. Imagine it in an open field and 16-18" at stump

1 saw drop/limb/buck. Go

Bushy trees like that, I make like a barn fulla holsteins and milk em dry! Ton of nice firewood there that don't need splitting, so my bias would be for the smallest lightest saw, because most of the cuts would be in the branches, not the main trunk. It'll still fell it and buck the trunk, but the work is in those branches, so you want fast and light as possible. So I'd got with the hotrod 50, your choice of flavor.[/QUOTE]

Make/Model/bar and chain please.
 
Red97

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Its all good Red i don't take him seriously:laugh:

I am just trying to make these saw class threads useful for the new guys lookin for a saw. Instead of the usual clear as mud threads that get off topic quick. The 45cc and under thread went real good, hoping the same for this so far not so good.
 
zogger

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Bushy trees like that, I make like a barn fulla holsteins and milk em dry! Ton of nice firewood there that don't need splitting, so my bias would be for the smallest lightest saw, because most of the cuts would be in the branches, not the main trunk. It'll still fell it and buck the trunk, but the work is in those branches, so you want fast and light as possible. So I'd got with the hotrod 50, your choice of flavor.

Make/Model/bar and chain please.[/QUOTE]

Well, haven't only run a couple high performance 50s, and none of the newer autotune or mtronic models. The guys who have them like them, so, for new production saws, say the 550xp with an 18 inch sugihara bar, maybe convert to 3/8ths rim and run lgx chain. Well, for the first felling, run crappy el cheapo beat on chain, because you might hit junk the first several feet of the trunk, but once on the ground, a sharp loop of lgx. Once it is one the ground, and if you didn't hit anything on the felling cuts, you can look at the base of the trunk and see if wire is in there from color discoloration/stain, so you'll know to switch back to the junk chain for the last few big cuts near the base.

I pretty much almost always milk the tops out before attacking the main trunk.
 
lone wolf
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You have to pretend it is 16-18" and in the middle of a field, Only picture of an average tree I cut.

Stupid limby fence row trees hence the 60cc and under. What is your opinion Lonewolf?
I run an MS 200T to get them on the ground from the top first with a bucket truck or climbed then a Stihl 261 and a Husky 346 then we go right to a 70 CC 440 Stihl . But 16-18 trees I would use a 50 CC saw. But you say it is hard maple ?I would use the 440 Stihl.
 
Jim Timber

Jim Timber

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I've run a stock 550xp back at Andy's (2012 model I believe), and if I hadn't gotten the 357xp cheap, I would've gotten a 550xp instead. That saw is zippy, light, and maneuverable, while having plenty of grunt - stock. I was very impressed with that little guy in 12" oak.

562xp is the replacement for the 357xp, and is heavier than the 550xp by a couple pounds. Not as heavy as a 372xp, but heavier enough that it will be noticed after an afternoon of limbing something with that much crown. 2# isn't much, but it's close to 20% on a 11# saw.
 
XSKIER

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Bushy trees like that, I make like a barn fulla holsteins and milk em dry! Ton of nice firewood there that don't need splitting, so my bias would be for the smallest lightest saw, because most of the cuts would be in the branches, not the main trunk. It'll still fell it and buck the trunk, but the work is in those branches, so you want fast and light as possible. So I'd got with the hotrod 50, your choice of flavor.

Make/Model/bar and chain please.[/QUOTE]
Stihl MS 261 C-M 16" E with RM chain.

The 550xpat is just too peaky to comfortably notch, back cut, wedge, and fell bar length hard wood like that. Then, when you get to those limbs the only thing the Husqy does better is make decibels. On that tree pictured, you'd have to have four guys dragging cut branches away at full speed to even keep your little homey at capacity. Even though I have a dozen work saws, I really only head out to the woods with a 261 or 362. Furthermore, I always firewood with RM chain, RS is just too touchy. The MS 362 C-M 20" E with RM will feel like a lightweight light Saber next to your 80cc + homies.
 
SawTroll

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I run an MS 200T to get them on the ground from the top first with a bucket truck or climbed then a Stihl 261 and a Husky 346 then we go right to a 70 CC 440 Stihl . But 16-18 trees I would use a 50 CC saw. But you say it is hard maple ?I would use the 440 Stihl.


Replace all those saws with a 560xp, and I'm sure you would be finished earlier. Husky makes 60cc and 50cc saws with a snappy throttle response etc, which is very important when limbing - but Stihl simply doesn't.

There is more to it as well, if we go into how the different saws balance and handles.
 
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