Nik's Poulan Thread

[Ambull01]

Your saws have an ignition module in them.In simple terms the module contains the coil and an electronic trigger that tells the plug when to fire.

Older saws have ignition points and a capacitor called a condensor like the cars from the erly 80's and older. The modules are simple but the points are very reliable and allow you to change the ignition timing a bit. Both qre good systems. Us older guys that fix our own cars are quite familiar with points systems os they are no big deal but many of the younger guys seem intimidated bu them.

Want me to make another little video on setting air gap of your coil? It's easier than tightening up you starter rope.

I've never heard of that on cars. You sound like that crazy scientist on Back to the Future.

Absolutely lol. If you're bored. Have to go to National Guard training this weekend. I may bring the saw with me and work on it after dismissal.

 

[M&Rtree]

Question guys. Differences between 365,3750,380 carbs and cylinders? Which is the hot rod of the group?

 

[Acornhill]

I say 365 is the better saw

 

[fossil]

I've never heard of that on cars. You sound like that crazy scientist on Back to the Future.

Absolutely lol. If you're bored. Have to go to National Guard training this weekend. I may bring the saw with me and work on it after dismissal.

Well I tried three times but I couldn't get the vid to upload to photobucket.

 

[Ambull01]

Well I tried three times but I couldn't get the vid to upload to photobucket.

That sucks. I put the saw back together until I get the carb kit and fuel line/filter. The fuel filter looks really old and brownish. Think I definitely need to clean off the top of the piston, there's some crud that scraped off from the pulley rope.

So anyway, not sure if I'm full blown CAD yet but there's definitely something wrong with me. I spent just about all day wrenching on this saw and I still feel like messing with it. I don't have anything else I could do though so sadly I'm going to put her away.

 

[Ambull01]

Another thing, these service manuals aren't that great. I think my expectations were too high. I wanted EXTREME detail. These manuals seem to be written for people that already know what they're doing.

 

[Ambull01]

Well don't pull it back out, its probably fine if you pulled it part way out, and it was still attached.

Setting the gap is not difficult, just new to ya, thats all. You will notice that the screw mounting holes in coil are oblong, at least one of them is. This is so when you loosely attach it, you can then move it in or out away from the flywheel, to get the right gap. Then tighten the screws.

Easiest way to do it, is turn the flywheel so the magnets are directly across from the pickup on the coil. You will notice that the magnets are strong and will grab the coil. LOL Spread it apart and slip a business card or something equivalent between them. You want to tighten the screws when there is just slight pressure on the card, and you can just move it. Once the both screws are tight, remove the card and turn the flywheel, and see what it looks like.

If ya didn't get just right, just repeat the process. LOL It isn't hard at all. But the "pull" of the magnets make it tricky sometimes.

Gregg,

Just read this again, couldn't sleep. Too excited about my new National Guard unit tomorrow/today and just read the chainsaw manual. Yep, I'm a chainsaw dork.

Anyway, lets say hypothetically speaking, I screw up the gap. Does the amount of gap dictate the amount of charge sent to the coil and spark plug? So if the gap is not set properly, the spark will not be optimal and may cause misfires/4 stroking and unburnt fuel? That's my total SWAG right there.

 

[Hoggwood]

Just read this again, couldn't sleep. Too excited about my new National Guard unit tomorrow/today and just read the chainsaw manual. Yep, I'm a chainsaw dork.

Anyway, lets say hypothetically speaking, I screw up the gap. Does the amount of gap dictate the amount of charge sent to the coil and spark plug? So if the gap is not set properly, the spark will not be optimal and may cause misfires/4 stroking and unburnt fuel? That's my total SWAG right there.

I am a chainsaw dork too. Or at least I am trying to become one.

Coil gap distance is fairly critical in both the production of an ideal spark energy as well as the longevity of the coil. Gap will not effect timing or 4 stroking. Temperature of plug may impact early ignition and could simulate an advanced timing (experts can correct me here). As Greg said, business card or business card and a single sheet of paper will get that gap at between 0.010 and 0.014. I haven't worked on saws long but have used this exact technique several times on the 3400's and ignition spark energy has never been an issue. Do make certain that coil is snugged down when you've set the air gap.

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The overall question you may have is one of spark energy?

Here is some of my own brief detail if you care about electromagnetic induction. It is the principal that governs how a high electric potential (voltage) can get generated from a lower and how transformers (step-up/down coils) etc. work. This high voltage production is what is desirable to produce high energy spark. I have not dissected a coil off of a Poulan but principles are fairly universal.

The rate of change of magnetic flux with respect to time in the primary and secondary coils determine the EMF (voltage) generated in both the primary and secondary coils. The higher the voltage in the secondary coil, the larger the electric field across the plug gap and ultimately greater spark energy delivered by the gap current. Magnetic flux is the product of the magnetic field strength passing through the area of the coil face and the area of the coil face itself. The ratio of the number of secondary to primary coils is the voltage multiplier sought at the plug.

Magnetic field strength passing through the coil face varies significantly as the permanent magnet in the flywheel and the coil face gap distance changes. That being said, coil gap and alignment/orientation of the coil face to have the maximum face area perpendicular to the magnetic field lines, will ensure a strong and consistent spark energy once the coils reach ideal operating temperature. The time-rate-of-change of this magnetic flux will ultimately determine the spark voltage. Higher frequency of rotation, higher voltage.

In short, with a properly adjusted gap, the faster that flywheel spins the greater the energy of the spark.

It will be sweet satisfaction when you finally get it running.

 

[M&Rtree]

I have researched Google to death on the three models and found no real horsepower specs or any talk on cutting speed between the three. Even no comparison on YouTube between them. I'd like to learn about them.

 

[redunshee]

I've never heard of that on cars. You sound like that crazy scientist on Back to the Future.

Absolutely lol. If you're bored. Have to go to National Guard training this weekend. I may bring the saw with me and work on it after dismissal.

Guess we're showing our age. Though most lawn mowers use points and condensers as far as I know.

 

[redunshee]

Carb question. Any reason a saw will not idle below 5000 rpm's? Starts fine runs out to wot fine but will not idle down. Will idle at that speed indefinitely. Saw And carb passed leakdown test. . Idle screw out as far as it will go and throttle lever appears to be close fully. I'm totally stumped.

 

[Acornhill]

Did you rebuild the carb?

 

[Acornhill]

Turning down the L screw does nothing?

 

[ChipsFlyin]

The first thing I think is air leak but you did testing on the carb and housing. I would check the boot with starting fluid and see if the idle changes. Also, One of my saws 3400 or Craftsman 3.3 would not idle down the whole way and found that even though the throttle lever looked closed the linkage was bent just enough to keep the idle up.

 

[ChipsFlyin]

The first thing I think is air leak but you did testing on the carb and housing. I would check the boot with starting fluid and see if the idle changes. Also, One of my saws 3400 or Craftsman 3.3 would not idle down the whole way and found that even though the throttle lever looked closed the linkage was bent just enough to keep the idle up.

I picked up a 3.3 that the guy said the saw "was running too fast" when I took the low needle out of the carb to clean the very end of the tip was broke off in the carb. Maybe pull the low and see if it is seating right.

 

[fossil]

Carb question. Any reason a saw will not idle below 5000 rpm's? Starts fine runs out to wot fine but will not idle down. Will idle at that speed indefinitely. Saw And carb passed leakdown test. . Idle screw out as far as it will go and throttle lever appears to be close fully. I'm totally stumped.

Any chance the throttle shutter (butterfly) is in backwards. That will do exactly that.

 

[blk05crew]

Worked on a 5200 cylinder last night trying to save it. Removed most of the aluminum transfer except for a couple tiny spots I still need to get.

Before


As of right now.

 

[Acornhill]

Looks great that will work just fine

 

[blk05crew]

Looks great that will work just fine

Thanks, I used Mastermind's sandpaper/scotchbite pad method.

 

[OhioGregg]

I have researched Google to death on the three models and found no real horsepower specs or any talk on cutting speed between the three. Even no comparison on YouTube between them. I'd like to learn about them.

I personally don't think there is to much difference in them. The PP365 is slightly older than the PP380. Spec wise, they are the same. Bore 49mm, stroke 32mm. 60cc, The 365 used a Walbro HDA -49 The 380 used HDA-137.

I'm not a saw "porter" so can't help ya there. I own a 380 and love it. It uses a Gilardoni cyl. Made in Italy.
ModifiedMark & RMS62Moparman both have 365's, and love them. There are a number of folks on here that own both. They could give ya a better heads-up comparison I suppose.

The 3750 is the same saw as the 380. It came with HDA-164 carb though. and is green,
Kevin, (JeremiahJohnson) has built and used all kinds of combinations of these saws. He could tell ya more.

Here is a pic of a cyl for the 380

Gregg,