Round Filing

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I freehand, but use a leather glove on my left hand pressing on the smooth part of the rotating assembly to hold the rotating stone against the cutter. It is much less jumpy with the stone rotating "up" the cutter (orienting the chain so the "left side" of the stone is applied to the cutter. I also make a gentle filing motion to keep the wear on the stone even. I also use the lowest power that will hold rpm with gentle pressure on the cutter. Get heavy handed and you'll blue the cutters in a hurry. I lower my right hand when on an "inside out filing" cutter, and raise my right hand on the "outside in" cutters. If I think they need it, I'll lower the rakers with the dremel, trying to match the original contour or bevel. If that doesn't make sense, or you want a video, let me know
 
If that doesn't make sense, or you want a video, let me know
I think I understand what you are saying. But I am sure a lot of guys would like to see a video, if you are willing to make one!

We have separate threads on filing, grinding, Timberlines, Granbergs, etc - I think you could even start a new thread just on sharpening with rotary grinders (or Dremels, or whatever you call yours).

Philbert
 
I don't file on the grinder due to the limited space. But have thought about using a grinder vise as a stand alone filing vise. I never found the 'dead'/'donor grinder to try this. Was going to mount it through a piece of 2X4, and clamp that in a bench vise. It would be similar to the vise in this thread:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/chain-sharpening-mandrel-build.265933/ (see Post#7)

Some other vise ideas in this thread:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-low-tech-filing-vise.245004/

Philbert

I found my 511a vise sitting on the shelf at NT and asked them what they'd take for it. They initially said they could not sell it since it was not complete! I asked to speak to the manager, said "Well what else are you gonna do with it?" and walked out the door having bought it for $25.00....
 
I found my 511a vise sitting on the shelf at NT and asked them what they'd take for it. They initially said they could not sell it since it was not complete! I asked to speak to the manager, said "Well what else are you gonna do with it?" and walked out the door having bought it for $25.00....
Good deal on the grinder vise. I have a vise but seldom use it as I've learned to file in almost every situation except standing on my head. Lolimage.jpg
 
So I lazily made a video of how I use a Dremel to sharpen. This is a 7/32 Oregon stone. I generally move much faster, and can finish a 93dl skip chain in a few minutes, but slowed it down for the video. Just like hand filing, the key to getting the point perfect is to lower or raise the right hand to really hit the corner
 
So I lazily made a video of how I use a Dremel to sharpen. This is a 7/32 Oregon stone. I generally move much faster, and can finish a 93dl skip chain in a few minutes, but slowed it down for the video. Just like hand filing, the key to getting the point perfect is to lower or raise the right hand to really hit the corner

Jon, I was wondering if you dress the stone between grindings or just use a new bit?
John
 
I find if I use a "filing motion" the stone tends to stay fairly uniform. I do not dress them, and when the part that hits the cutter starts to wear away (will assume an hourglass shape), I simply replace the stone, as they are fairly inexpensive. I haven't counted, but I can get a bunch of chains out of one stone. As I said before, I can't make a Mdavlee quality chain this way, but I can make a very useable chain quickly
 
Jon, looks very similar to what I do with the 12 V, except I do all one side, than the other, think it goes faster that way and for me, easier to keep the angle correct. I generally use a stump vice, lock the chain, do 3 or four cutters, then do the opposite 3 or 4, then move the chain, etc.

Also, the 12 V has a guide with the angles marked, making it easier to get the height and angle correct.

I also find the diamond stones (EZElap) hold up much better than the regular stones, and I think they provide a better edge. They cost more, but last far longer, so are cheaper in the long run. I do go back & forth like you do, even though they say not to.

Good video, thanks. The 12 V cuts my sharpening time (with round) in half.
 
I apply so little pressure to the cutter that I haven't found a need to stabilize. I used to flip the bar and do all the cutters "inside out" but lost patience with that, and now just do them all from one side. The dremel has a guide thingie, but I found it distracting and unhelpful. I haven't experimented with different stones, but figure the difference between razor sharp and very sharp lasts about one round at best
 
I think Husks grinder give me an idea ,,I can put my 6 sided file in the sawzall and have a power file ,whut you guyz think ?
You could take it one step further and mount the file on the push block of your splitter. Just set the saw on the log beam and use the lever for the back and forth motion.
 
So I lazily made a video of how I use a Dremel to sharpen. This is a 7/32 Oregon stone. I generally move much faster, and can finish a 93dl skip chain in a few minutes, but slowed it down for the video. Just like hand filing, the key to getting the point perfect is to lower or raise the right hand to really hit the corner


So do you check cutter lengths to make sure they are uniform? Also wondering how you manage depth gauges....thanks.
 
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