FYI - Northern Chainsaw Sharpener

[parrisw]

Where is the link for the post on the mods to do to this grinder, I remember looking through the post, had a bunch of pics, but cant find it now. I just got my grinder today and want to do the things mentioned.

Thanks

Will

 

[livewire]

Where is the link for the post on the mods to do to this grinder, I remember looking through the post, had a bunch of pics, but cant find it now. I just got my grinder today and want to do the things mentioned.

Thanks

Will

You could start here #187 ish


http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=39995&page=13

Lotsa reading after that.

 

[parrisw]

Hey thanks allot man. I put the grinder together today, with no shims, have not gotten them yet, but I did sand down the 2 spots, and I sharpened 4 chains tonight, it works really well. I LOVE it.

 

[bytehoven]

Wait until you put the washer and shims in... The grinder becomes very solid and smooth.

I can say thanks enough to the folks behind the washer upgrade.

 

[parrisw]

ya I figured it would be better with the shims, however I was too excited to not try it out, and it did a good job, just had to take your time.

Thanks

Will

 

[bytehoven]

I did the pre-washer upgrade as well.

Infact, the washer will perform better WITH the sanding away of the paint where the two surfaces meet the washer.

So anyone buying the grinder and waiting on the washer/shim upgrade, should perform the other tweaks discovered for the grinder.

 

[zemmo]

Grinding depth gauges

I'm finally getting around to reading the Oregon manual, and see that the instructions for taking down the depth gauges involve using the 1/4" wheel at a 60 degree angle, then shaping said wheel with dressing brick. Why set the head at a 60 degree angle instead of just setting at 0 degrees and lowering the arm straight down? TIA

 

[PA Plumber]

I'm finally getting around to reading the Oregon manual, and see that the instructions for taking down the depth gauges involve using the 1/4" wheel at a 60 degree angle, then shaping said wheel with dressing brick. Why set the head at a 60 degree angle instead of just setting at 0 degrees and lowering the arm straight down? TIA

I didn't read the oregon manual before I did a few chains. I didn't use any angle and lowered straight down onto the raker using the largest of the wheels. My chains have been cutting great. Maybe the would be even better if I would leave the "ramp" on the raker.

Also, Another thank you for all the information and infomercials on this unit. It is a very nice grinder and excellent when all the mods are done.

 

[vegaome]

Howdy All,

I broke down and ordered one today. I couldn't keep off the threads and they still had it at $99. If they would of raised the price I could of made it. I'm hoping I will spend less time sharpening and more time cutting. Great threads by the way. Thanks to all.

v/r

Mike

 

[parrisw]

Got to try out the saws today after sharpening with the grinder. And wow, its great like cutting through butter, I can get them sharp with a file, but not this good. I am very happy.

 

[LarryTheCableGuy]

When my grinder arrived the other day my wife saw the word "chainsaw" on the box and asked (in a pleasant tone) "is that a new saw?"

Sounded like permission to me!!

 

[PA Plumber]

Got to try out the saws today after sharpening with the grinder. And wow, its great like cutting through butter, I can get them sharp with a file, but not this good. I am very happy.

Hey, nothing like good ole USA marketing on a product made in China to make a Canadian Happy. Now that's good stuff there.

 

[parrisw]

Sounded like permission to me!!

Sometimes it's better to beg for forgiveness then ask for permission!!

Hey, nothing like good ole USA marketing on a product made in China to make a Canadian Happy. Now that's good stuff there.

HE HE HE, made me chuckle!! Thats right though! And we do have are share of chinese made goods here in Canada.

 

[deerlakejens]

Just finished testing my first sharpened chain and have to say it threw some nice sized chips! The only problem I had was on the depth guages. I think I dressed the wheel correctly but I end up with a flat depth guage. Shouldn't the leading edge be a bit lower?

 

[parrisw]

Yes I think it will make the top a bit flat, but your could round the front edge a bit with a file.

 

[tawilson]

Yes I think it will make the top a bit flat, but your could round the front edge a bit with a file.

That's how I do it.

 

[parrisw]

Two other things about this grinder that could use attention.

1: the clamp for the chain, I find I really have to push hard on it to hold the chain tight, so the cutter doesn't move when the grinding wheel hits it, anybody else notice this.

2:The chain stop, it has a little play, if it could be tightened up a bit, possible would cut down on the different tooth length's.

Anybody address these issues yet? If not I may have to think of something.

Thanks

 

[deerlakejens]

1: the clamp for the chain, I find I really have to push hard on it to hold the chain tight, so the cutter doesn't move when the grinding wheel hits it, anybody else notice this.

Be sure to center the chain in the rail with the allen wrench before you tighten the cam, this allows you to narrow the gap in the rail so very little effort is needed to lock the chain in position. The Oregon 511A manual explains how to do this properly.

As for the chain stop, mine seems like the spring holding it in place could be stiffer.

 

[LarryTheCableGuy]

As for the chain stop, mine seems like the spring holding it in place could be stiffer.

I agree. That would (hopefully) compensate for the slightly sloppy fit of the chain stop on it's shaft. I haven't found a suitable spring yet.

.

 

[parrisw]

yes I am using the allen bolt to fit the gauge of chain, then tighten with cam bolt. I will take another look though to make sure I am doing it right.

Thanks