Sometimes you are going to pay someone to do a certain amount of things just a matter of choosing which ones. At least if you sub the grinding out there will be no grinding debris in your shop. I know I erased the file part from the quote.The cost of not being able to do something yourself is having to pay someone else to do it.
I got reel rip Chain thought I need breaker spinner. Turns out grind & punch, link & ball pein (8 - 12 oz.) works since it comes up 2ce a month @ most 4 me.I've had chains out of the box that were great, some that were ok, and some that plain sucked.
The shop near my cabin (where I do most of my cutting) charges 6-7 bucks to sharpen depending on length of chain. They do a good job. We've been using them since I was a kid and only had one chain ever come back from them they didn't cut well (chain was nice and sharp but rakers were too low so it was grabby) but the chain went in rocked so I'm assuming he just had an off day. He charges $3 to shorten a chain, again fair in my opinion.
Now that I have the saw bug I really should just get a breaker/spinner and a grinder. I know I have over 50 chains on hand at any time and all but one saw run either 3/8 or 3/8 LP so I only need two wheels.
I'm not putting down the practice of cleaning up chains before sharpening but it is something I never do.
Just for clarity, are we discussing 'face cords', 'full cords', etc. ? Thanks.That's a 20 cord chain from last year .
The title here is a choice shop re-sharpened or new factory loop. . . . Shop re-sharpened probably means take it back as far as the shortest tooth.
Quality control issue. Applies to manufacturers and to guys that sharpen chains.I've had chains out of the box that were great, some that were ok, and some that plain sucked.
Um, that's all you need anyway; 2 wheels cover most chains (1/4" to 3/8" pitch), plus one more for the depth gauges.. . . all but one saw run either 3/8 or 3/8 LP so I only need two wheels.
4x4x8 feet cord ..It's s preference. Even the definition of 'dirty' varies. Solvent cleaning also gets out gunk between the plates, around the rivets, etc. Plus, they look so p-r-e-t-t-y!
Just for clarity, are we discussing 'face cords', 'full cords', etc. ? Thanks.
Right. If you iu don't ask for anything different, they will use their 'default' (easiest) settings. If you want something special or specific, you might need to choose carefully or pay a bit more. Kind of like getting the cheapest haircut or looking good . . .
Quality control issue. Applies to manufacturers and to guys that sharpen chains.
Um, that's all you need anyway; 2 wheels cover most chains (1/4" to 3/8" pitch), plus one more for the depth gauges.
(We will work on this if you decide to buy one).
Philbert
Regular grinding wheels have a tendancy to load up, especially when trying to take light cuts. The pores fill with smeared metal. Then they will not cut freely and will create friction and heat. Coolant and frequent dressing of the wheel help keep the sharp edges of the abrasive exposed. Diamond wheels do not do this nearly as much.
So how do you touch it up? Come out of the field and touch it up in the grinder?One person one chain one saw . It's not that complicated. Gets dull you touch it up. [emoji106] Sure most chain sellers don't like to hear just how long a chain can really last. Only been doing it for 30 years . [emoji106] Wait longer then that dam I'm getting old lol
Woodblocker55
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if I hit something I stop and file. If I don't hit something I still take the time to file while I eat my lunch.Both of these! I only hand file, period. I dont cut enough to justify a grinder, and hand-filing for me is relaxing. I file chains more often than most im sure, goes quickly when each tooth onky needs a swipe or two to be back to "perfect"
Agreed - I've hired people to do jobs that require special skills or equipment when it's not something that I'm likely to do often. Like tiling a bathroom. Otherwise I'll buy the tools and learn to do the work instead of paying someone else. Sharpening just about anything is so far toward the do it myself side of the equation I cannot even imagine paying someone to sharpen a chain.Sometimes you are going to pay someone to do a certain amount of things just a matter of choosing which ones.
I still take the time to file while I eat my lunch.
I should add, hand filing.
I think you would find getting the sharpening, making/breaking, kit useful & a money saver I find sitting in the shop filing a few chains therapeutic with a bit of gentle music on the CD player, the Log burner going good, only problem the 2 Labrador dogs lie in front of the stove & the old dog, he's 12 this year, lays so long his fur starts to singe & the smell is awful have to poke him with the sweeping brush handle to get him to move the joys of rural country side living.I've had chains out of the box that were great, some that were ok, and some that plain sucked.
The shop near my cabin (where I do most of my cutting) charges 6-7 bucks to sharpen depending on length of chain. They do a good job. We've been using them since I was a kid and only had one chain ever come back from them they didn't cut well (chain was nice and sharp but rakers were too low so it was grabby) but the chain went in rocked so I'm assuming he just had an off day. He charges $3 to shorten a chain, again fair in my opinion.
Now that I have the saw bug I really should just get a breaker/spinner and a grinder. I know I have over 50 chains on hand at any time and all but one saw run either 3/8 or 3/8 LP so I only need two wheels.
Of course they do. But at $20 (Husky, 84L, full chisel, skip tooth at a local Ace Hardware store) a chain, $10 to get it sharpened is quite a bit. Especially when others charge $5, and in my case, I do my neighbors chains for free. Then there are stores with poorly (or not at all) trained employees that burn the cutters from negligence.
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