Shop Re-Sharpened Chains vs. Factory

[Woodblocker55]

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[Woodblocker55]

That's a 20 cord chain from last year . I hit barbwire. [emoji106] Still can be sharpened.
Woodblocker55

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[Franny K]

The cost of not being able to do something yourself is having to pay someone else to do it.

Sometimes you are going to pay someone to do a certain amount of things just a matter of choosing which ones. At least if you sub the grinding out there will be no grinding debris in your shop. I know I erased the file part from the quote.

The title here is a choice shop re-sharpened or new factory loop. Make your own loop is another approach. Shop re-sharpened probably means take it back as far as the shortest tooth. Which sort of leaves one with a chain that seems worth half of a new one.

 

[svk]

I've had chains out of the box that were great, some that were ok, and some that plain sucked.

The shop near my cabin (where I do most of my cutting) charges 6-7 bucks to sharpen depending on length of chain. They do a good job. We've been using them since I was a kid and only had one chain ever come back from them they didn't cut well (chain was nice and sharp but rakers were too low so it was grabby) but the chain went in rocked so I'm assuming he just had an off day. He charges $3 to shorten a chain, again fair in my opinion.

Now that I have the saw bug I really should just get a breaker/spinner and a grinder. I know I have over 50 chains on hand at any time and all but one saw run either 3/8 or 3/8 LP so I only need two wheels.

 

[SeMoTony]

I've had chains out of the box that were great, some that were ok, and some that plain sucked.

The shop near my cabin (where I do most of my cutting) charges 6-7 bucks to sharpen depending on length of chain. They do a good job. We've been using them since I was a kid and only had one chain ever come back from them they didn't cut well (chain was nice and sharp but rakers were too low so it was grabby) but the chain went in rocked so I'm assuming he just had an off day. He charges $3 to shorten a chain, again fair in my opinion.

Now that I have the saw bug I really should just get a breaker/spinner and a grinder. I know I have over 50 chains on hand at any time and all but one saw run either 3/8 or 3/8 LP so I only need two wheels.

I got reel rip Chain thought I need breaker spinner. Turns out grind & punch, link & ball pein (8 - 12 oz.) works since it comes up 2ce a month @ most 4 me.

 

[Philbert]

I'm not putting down the practice of cleaning up chains before sharpening but it is something I never do.

It's s preference. Even the definition of 'dirty' varies. Solvent cleaning also gets out gunk between the plates, around the rivets, etc. Plus, they look so p-r-e-t-t-y!

That's a 20 cord chain from last year .

Just for clarity, are we discussing 'face cords', 'full cords', etc. ? Thanks.

The title here is a choice shop re-sharpened or new factory loop. . . . Shop re-sharpened probably means take it back as far as the shortest tooth.

Right. If you iu don't ask for anything different, they will use their 'default' (easiest) settings. If you want something special or specific, you might need to choose carefully or pay a bit more. Kind of like getting the cheapest haircut or looking good . . .

I've had chains out of the box that were great, some that were ok, and some that plain sucked.

Quality control issue. Applies to manufacturers and to guys that sharpen chains.

. . . all but one saw run either 3/8 or 3/8 LP so I only need two wheels.

Um, that's all you need anyway; 2 wheels cover most chains (1/4" to 3/8" pitch), plus one more for the depth gauges.

(We will work on this if you decide to buy one).

Philbert

 

[Woodblocker55]

It's s preference. Even the definition of 'dirty' varies. Solvent cleaning also gets out gunk between the plates, around the rivets, etc. Plus, they look so p-r-e-t-t-y!


Just for clarity, are we discussing 'face cords', 'full cords', etc. ? Thanks.



Right. If you iu don't ask for anything different, they will use their 'default' (easiest) settings. If you want something special or specific, you might need to choose carefully or pay a bit more. Kind of like getting the cheapest haircut or looking good . . .


Quality control issue. Applies to manufacturers and to guys that sharpen chains.


Um, that's all you need anyway; 2 wheels cover most chains (1/4" to 3/8" pitch), plus one more for the depth gauges.

(We will work on this if you decide to buy one).

Philbert

4x4x8 feet cord ..

Woodblocker55

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[user 122190]

I soak my chains in a solvent (gas) before grinding them sharp. It goes a long ways in keeping your wheel clean. YMMV.

Regular grinding wheels have a tendancy to load up, especially when trying to take light cuts. The pores fill with smeared metal. Then they will not cut freely and will create friction and heat. Coolant and frequent dressing of the wheel help keep the sharp edges of the abrasive exposed. Diamond wheels do not do this nearly as much.

 

[HarleyT]

One person one chain one saw . It's not that complicated. Gets dull you touch it up. [emoji106] Sure most chain sellers don't like to hear just how long a chain can really last. Only been doing it for 30 years . [emoji106] Wait longer then that dam I'm getting old lol

Woodblocker55

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So how do you touch it up? Come out of the field and touch it up in the grinder?

 

[Woodblocker55]

Woods in my yard. [emoji3][emoji106] You put in bench grinder and clean up any dull edges. [emoji106][emoji3] It's not rocket science.

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[Jet47]

Both of these! I only hand file, period. I dont cut enough to justify a grinder, and hand-filing for me is relaxing. I file chains more often than most im sure, goes quickly when each tooth onky needs a swipe or two to be back to "perfect"

if I hit something I stop and file. If I don't hit something I still take the time to file while I eat my lunch.
I should add, hand filing.

 

[HarleyT]

How do you get the wood in your yard?

 

[Chris-PA]

Sometimes you are going to pay someone to do a certain amount of things just a matter of choosing which ones.

Agreed - I've hired people to do jobs that require special skills or equipment when it's not something that I'm likely to do often. Like tiling a bathroom. Otherwise I'll buy the tools and learn to do the work instead of paying someone else. Sharpening just about anything is so far toward the do it myself side of the equation I cannot even imagine paying someone to sharpen a chain.

Most of the factory grinds I've seen are at best indifferent, and I think if you cannot beat that you're not even trying. Some of the Oregon stuff lately is all over the place.

The TriLink chains I've bought are usually pretty consistent in angles, lengths and depth gauges, but usually not very close to the recommended specs. Usually the gullets are bizarrely shaped.

 

[Philbert]

I still take the time to file while I eat my lunch.
I should add, hand filing.

Manicure?

Philbert

 

[Little Al]

I've had chains out of the box that were great, some that were ok, and some that plain sucked.

The shop near my cabin (where I do most of my cutting) charges 6-7 bucks to sharpen depending on length of chain. They do a good job. We've been using them since I was a kid and only had one chain ever come back from them they didn't cut well (chain was nice and sharp but rakers were too low so it was grabby) but the chain went in rocked so I'm assuming he just had an off day. He charges $3 to shorten a chain, again fair in my opinion.

Now that I have the saw bug I really should just get a breaker/spinner and a grinder. I know I have over 50 chains on hand at any time and all but one saw run either 3/8 or 3/8 LP so I only need two wheels.

I think you would find getting the sharpening, making/breaking, kit useful & a money saver I find sitting in the shop filing a few chains therapeutic with a bit of gentle music on the CD player, the Log burner going good, only problem the 2 Labrador dogs lie in front of the stove & the old dog, he's 12 this year, lays so long his fur starts to singe & the smell is awful have to poke him with the sweeping brush handle to get him to move the joys of rural country side living.

 

[mohick]

Someone mentioned "asking for something special" . dam at 10 bucks for regular would hate to ask for anything special!!prob. charge more than a new saw!! for sharpening that usually ain't worth rat $hit

 

[HarleyT]

In the biz it is called a "happy ending"!!!

 

[opinion]

Of course they do. But at $20 (Husky, 84L, full chisel, skip tooth at a local Ace Hardware store) a chain, $10 to get it sharpened is quite a bit. Especially when others charge $5, and in my case, I do my neighbors chains for free. Then there are stores with poorly (or not at all) trained employees that burn the cutters from negligence.

The problem is calling it gouging when it's not. If you can buy a new saw MSRP of $599.95 but you can get it for $500, does it mean the dealer is gouging because you can find it cheaper? You have a choice. Don't be condescending.

 

[svk]

I find most places charge $6 on the low end to $10 on the high end for sharpening. So $10 is high but if you needed it done it's not that bad in the big scheme of things.

I often find loops of full chisel chain for $12-15 delivered on internet sales. Those loops are $18-$25 in local stores. I wouldn't buy locally unless I needed to, but again in the big scheme of things that extra few dollars doesn't matter if you make smart purchases the rest of the time.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

$10 for a chain sharpen is cheap here. There's only 1 other shop in town, (Stihl dealer) and it was $15 there last I checked.
If I spend 10 mins on a chain (it's quite possible if it's hammered), I should bill it at $15. Shop rate is $90/hr. And that doesn't figure grinder wheel wear or grinder.

A 20" loop of 3/8" is $34 at that dealer. Was at Ace in Anchorage yesterday, they are a Stihl "dealer". $38.95 for a $20" loop.


Prices will vary on area. Just like a 250k house here is an average cost for a 3bd, 2 bath house on an acre. 250k in northern Maine. Would buy double the house, nice shop, barn, shed and 300 acres.