wedges getting revenge
One thing I've heard is that cutting with 58 or 63 gauge is better because the slightly wider kerf is so much easier to work with wedging.
Starting your wedge as soon as you can, prior to any set-back is obvious.
I hate to say this, but the boring back-cut, aka open face Scandinavian stuff, can have an advantage here. On a back leaner bore near the hinge and cut toward the rear - SOP, establish your insurance wedges snuggly by the hinge, (don't drive them hard there or you'll get the pop out or damage the hinge), prior to finishing the rear cuts if space allows. The reason this can be of value is that you stop any set-back and can get your wedges started with a kerf that is high enough to accept a wedge.
Back cuts prior to face cuts, generally, will not settle as fast on most trees as a standard back cut after the face. Clearance was pointing out their advantage recently.
Wedges that don't angle as sharply are easier to start. Maybe you should carry a couple different types of wedges. First with the flat one, even though it will not work on a smaller tree.
The points about wedges side by side, working as a team and sure stikes are important.