EA 7900 is the only option, the dcs7900 (without the cat in the muffler, and consequently half a horse more go) used to be but it's no more. Is the 7910 much different?
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)
- Thread starter mainewoods
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Not sure what a bore cut is? I'll research it. This locust was easier to cut through than the twisted grain maple I scrounged a few posts back. 262xp cut easy, yellow chips flying with a sharp chain. Plan is to bring a buddy to show me the ropes. He works grounds for a local collage and could teach me a thing or two. I'm big on learning and being SAFE. Turned 33 today. Great day, ran my saw, split a few pieces of wood, then family dinner. Life is good!
Thanks for all the responses.
Thanks for all the responses.
I often use wedges when bucking a trunk. Plastic wedge. Cut far enough in to keep the wedge off the chain and then pound it in enough to keep the gap open. I prefer bright colors so they are easy to find when they fall and the chain flings them into the rhubarb.
Happy B-Day, Ryan.
It sounds as if the 7910 is the same as your EA7900 as it comes with a cat, that's all we have available here now too
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Happy birthday
.Glad your happy with the saw, figured you would enjoy it
. If you have someone who knows how to cut that will be great, better than learning from the school of hard knots or is it knocks
.Here's a video for you, read the description and listen close to what he says about kickback and it being caused by the top front "1/4" of the bar. Once the tip is in the wood you can then start to plunge/bore the bar into the log. Remember that even once the tip is in the hole it will still try to kick back and it will actually push the saw right back at you, sometimes very violently, when you are ready to push the saw in you need to be sure you have a good grip on it and you need to be committed as if it fights it can come back quick. If you need to stop because it's "kicking back"(in the hole) you have to be in a position to pull the saw out of the hole.
I use plastic wedges a lot, (bright orange), often just makes things easier. If you are cutting a "hung up" tree, cut haft way on the top side, put a wedge in, then go from the bottom. The wedge will help prevent the saw from getting pinched, and will also help the round slide free (instead of staying stuck against the other piece).
On large twisted pieces, I may put 2 or 3 wedges in my top cut (top, front, back), helps a lot.
When stumping, I first put in a wedge following the cut, then when I'm almost done, I pull that wedge and put two in the side as close to the bar as I can. When you cut through, the round will see saw and open to set your bar free, works great.
On large twisted pieces, I may put 2 or 3 wedges in my top cut (top, front, back), helps a lot.
When stumping, I first put in a wedge following the cut, then when I'm almost done, I pull that wedge and put two in the side as close to the bar as I can. When you cut through, the round will see saw and open to set your bar free, works great.
, but it's better than a pinched or damaged bar 
.
I don't like to bore cut, I think it reduces the life of your bar. Maybe to take down a leaner with a trigger, but otherwise I figure out another way to do it.
Happy Birthday! I'll be double that next week.
D
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That one got deleted as well!
The ash tree in my in laws yard that was grown over their neighbor’s roof is safely on the ground.
Took the one side down piece by piece with the pole saw (my arms are tired). Then dumped it over.
Did the limbing with the little Dolmar and the bucking with my FIL’s 029. That Stihl is a nice saw although the bar is worn out so it wanted to cut crooked.
I’m testing out a buddy’s 97 2500 Chev. Loved the Tommy Lift for loading the big rounds. Will probably buy it, it comes with a plow too.
Starting point
All of the limbs removed
Wrapped a chain to prevent the trunk from splitting if it’s hollow.
We were all worried about that crack and it proved to be nothing. The rotten hole was very localized as well. Lots of good wood in this tree.
German gals lol
This is awesome
You can see the round with the hole in the front. Still solid all the way around it.
Took the one side down piece by piece with the pole saw (my arms are tired). Then dumped it over.
Did the limbing with the little Dolmar and the bucking with my FIL’s 029. That Stihl is a nice saw although the bar is worn out so it wanted to cut crooked.
I’m testing out a buddy’s 97 2500 Chev. Loved the Tommy Lift for loading the big rounds. Will probably buy it, it comes with a plow too.
Starting point
All of the limbs removed
Wrapped a chain to prevent the trunk from splitting if it’s hollow.
We were all worried about that crack and it proved to be nothing. The rotten hole was very localized as well. Lots of good wood in this tree.
German gals lol
This is awesome
You can see the round with the hole in the front. Still solid all the way around it.
Looks like a beasty ride, liking the lift for sure.You can see the round with the hole in the front. Still solid all the way around it.
I have a cherry at the neighbors he wants me to take down, looks just like that but a good bit smaller and a lot more missing out of the middle, should be fun for sure.
Thanks to all on AS for the tremendous info you provide. I'm used to cutting logs down to length or rounds. Came upon this black locust someone offered me. Log is a few inches off the ground.
Problem: The further down I cut, the weight closed the cut up top and picked the bar/chain shut.
Solutions:
1) a wedge or two in the cut?
2) support from the bottom??
Thanks all. Enjoying the firewood/saw scene and learning a ton along the way
I'll normally cut from the top and bang a wedge in the top to keep it open and cut through. If there is a lot of space between the log and the ground (say more than two bar widths) I prefer to do a relieving cut at the top for a couple of inches then cut up from the bottom. I'll also do chipper's thing and cut most of the way through on multiple cuts (to just where they start to close a little) until I get to an opportune spot to cut through one way or another.
The other thing to keep in mind is what happens next. In the second pic you have one log resting on another suspended log. Obviously you need to dispose of the top log first (yes, der, but youtube is full of people doing dumb things with chainsaws). The lower log also looks like it is on a slope so there is the potential for it to drop and roll once you free one bit from the other bit. Hard to tell from the third pic but were you cutting that from the downhill side? I know a bloke locally who had his leg broken by a log rolling towards him in those circumstances. Not his brightest move.
Even though I'd be cutting from the uphill side, I'll use a pre-cut round or something to block the log from rolling away, or cunningly place a round or two about half the circumference of the log away on the downhill side so that when the log drops and rolls, it stops with the uncut bits of each previously 3/4 cut round facing upwards.
Happy birthday too, BTW
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
It really helped me to think about the log as fibres under either tension or compression, and trying to either avoid the compression wood or decide how much of it can be cut first, while the rest of the log will support it from closing, then cut the tension wood and you may find with enough of the initial compression wood out of the way from the first cuts, what's left of what started out as compression wood becomes under tension as your cut progresses. A bit tricky to describe but watch some youtube videos of big logs being bucked on sketchy hillsides and you'll see what I mean.
I think beer might help me to understand. As an added bonus, it also makes me more attractive to the opposite sex.
James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
When did the 7910 start coming with a cat? I thought they did the SLR muffler so they didn't need a cat.It sounds as if the 7910 is the same as your EA7900 as it comes with a cat, that's all we have available here now too
Did I mention it has a 454
woodchip rookie
Addicted to ArboristSite
454cc??!!
