Do I need a tach, or do I just want a new toy?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Cricket

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Oct 7, 2011
Messages
325
Reaction score
641
Location
Allegan, Michigan
And if I need it, any recommendations?

Just got my Husky 445 to sort of run again - it had a drowning incident - and getting it back in tune sounds like an excuse... but is it? TIA
 
And if I need it, any recommendations?

Just got my Husky 445 to sort of run again - it had a drowning incident - and getting it back in tune sounds like an excuse... but is it? TIA

I do have a tach simply becuase it helps train my ear to rpm and is a good troubleshooting device


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I do have a tach simply becuase it helps train my ear to rpm and is a good troubleshooting device


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Also it helps to quickly get it in tune by the manufacturer specifications, after that adjust to taste for you. My ears are terrible enough without my hearing aids wearing ear plugs that a tachometer takes the guess work out to get the saw in a reasonable starting point.
 
Toy. There is a lot of latitude in what IS considered a properly tuned saw. Squeezing out the final 1% won't make a bit of difference in the long or short term. It might be fun, it might impress your friends, but in wood a sharp chain makes the difference that matters.
Thats for sure I remeber dulling out my Stihl 461. My boy was cutting circles around me with his stihl 251. Until my 461 was resharpened of course
 
Thats for sure I remeber dulling out my Stihl 461. My boy was cutting circles around me with his stihl 251. Until my 461 was resharpened of course

I have stopped sharpening as much as I use to. I can go thru a chain real fast while maintaining a optimally sharp chain. Sharp enough is what I go for now. Tweaking everything else is mostly for fun.

We have folks here that carry multiple types of chains, bar lengths, different size saws, and claim to pick and choose the perfect combination for the size and type of wood they are going to cut. They are the ones that buy tachs, and jolly good for them. Just not what I do.
 
I always tune by ear. rev her up listen for four stroking on the high end. This can be confused with the rev limiter though. Put it it the cut see if it four strokes when the load is taken off. Im not changing crap in the field unless I destroy a chain. Long bar for short wood or short bar for big wood I make it work. I put the old 461 to work today 30+ oak with a 24 inch bar. I would of cut it with my Husky 272 with a 20 inch bar , it comes to technique. I spend all day sharpening chain if I desired a perfect sharp chain. I keep them within reason where they cut but without being pushed on or excessive heat buildup
 
And if I need it, any recommendations?

Just got my Husky 445 to sort of run again - it had a drowning incident - and getting it back in tune sounds like an excuse... but is it? TIA
You might need it if you work on multiple saws ,blowers ,trimmers etc. Just for that one saw I say no. But if you can afford it whats wrong with having a useful tool added to your shop. You decide.
 
I always tune by ear. rev her up listen for four stroking on the high end. This can be confused with the rev limiter though. Put it it the cut see if it four strokes when the load is taken off. Im not changing crap in the field unless I destroy a chain. Long bar for short wood or short bar for big wood I make it work. I put the old 461 to work today 30+ oak with a 24 inch bar. I would of cut it with my Husky 272 with a 20 inch bar , it comes to technique. I spend all day sharpening chain if I desired a perfect sharp chain. I keep them within reason where they cut but without being pushed on or excessive heat buildup
Your one of the rare one's on here and I mean that as a compliment.
 
Toy. There is a lot of latitude in what IS considered a properly tuned saw. Squeezing out the final 1% won't make a bit of difference in the long or short term. It might be fun, it might impress your friends, but in wood a sharp chain makes the difference that matters.
There not ment for tuning. They should be strictly used only for setting your idle speed.
 
say what you will about using a tach or not. i have one and have used it for several small engines. it saved me on my golf that the governer is tweeked on. i was able to get the engine to the top rpm by bending the broken linkage until i could get replacement parts. tool
 
say what you will about using a tach or not. i have one and have used it for several small engines. it saved me on my golf that the governer is tweeked on. i was able to get the engine to the top rpm by bending the broken linkage until i could get replacement parts. tool
Why wouldn't you just remove the governor completely. Thats what us shifter cart kids would do to our hop 7hp Briggs kart motors. Its a must and technically there is no top rpm the things holding back a motor once governor is eliminated/modified are much more scientific at that point which is where you first walk through the door to blueprint and balancing a simple engine like that so that every single nut and bolt sing together in harmony. That was all in my younger years so I've advanced slightly as a motorcycle technician dealing with much more complicated engineering and design aspects of what real hp looks like and feels like. I love every second of it. I haven't seen half of the guys here even mention what I've done to a couple of my saws. Maybe there just not on my kinda level cause when I go hard on a full built motor I go real hard and end where 100% methanol(top fuel dragster fuel) is the things drink of choice.
 
best use for a tach is for setting the low jet / idle , I set the high by ear. I also use it for setting gas air compressors min/max rpms and lawn mowers max rpm since they require specific settings to protect the equipment. I find i fall back on it after rebuilding or replacing carbs on saws I do not own.
 
Why wouldn't you just remove the governor completely. Thats what us shifter cart kids would do to our hop 7hp Briggs kart motors. Its a must and technically there is no top rpm the things holding back a motor once governor is eliminated/modified are much more scientific at that point which is where you first walk through the door to blueprint and balancing a simple engine like that so that every single nut and bolt sing together in harmony. That was all in my younger years so I've advanced slightly as a motorcycle technician dealing with much more complicated engineering and design aspects of what real hp looks like and feels like. I love every second of it. I haven't seen half of the guys here even mention what I've done to a couple of my saws. Maybe there just not on my kinda level cause when I go hard on a full built motor I go real hard and end where 100% methanol(top fuel dragster fuel) is the things drink of choice.
on that old flat head engine there is a top rpm that you dont want to go past or you will grenade the engine. i have a souped up golf cart with a vanguard vtwin 18hp that has an advanced timing key and stiffer valve springs but doesnt have bigger push rods so 5500 rpm is max before bending the push rods tach also necessary because it will rev way past that doesnt have a billett flywheel fan either which also comes apart. on my go cart i had a mac 101a and it screamed.
 
Back
Top