Two stroke fuel ratios

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bwalker
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Have you ever thrown a gallon of old motor oil in a fire? Same with a gallon of gasoline? Motor oil is much hotter.
"1 gallon of gasoline = 120,476 Btu. 1 gallon of diesel fuel = 137,381 Btu (distillate fuel with less than 15 parts per million sulfur content) 1 gallon of heating oil = 138,500 Btu (distillate fuel with 15 to 500 parts per million sulfur content)"

GradeHeating Value
(Btu/US gal)Comments

Fuel Oil No. 1132900 - 137000Small Space Heaters

Fuel Oil No. 2137000 - 141800Residential Heating

Fuel Oil No. 4143100 - 148100Industrial Burners

Fuel Oil No. 5 (Light)146800 - 150000Preheating in General Required

Fuel Oil No.5 (Heavy)149400 - 152000Heating Required

Fuel Oil No. 6151300 - 155900Bunker C

My point being, Oil burns hot..... Once lit.
PROJECT FARM! WE NEED YOU!
I don't think anyone disputes oil has higher BTU's.
 
sean donato

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And only the chainsaw world even argues about this.. no one else cares.
You would be surprised, rc, many dirt bike/atv forums. even to the extent where some guys run exhaust and plug temp sensors to monitor temp while running.
 
sand sock

sand sock

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I get a headache thinking about this ****. I've run Amsoil Saber at 100:1 in customer's and my own saws, trimmers, blowers, and my paramotor for many, many years without ANY oil-related failures. I've seen nothing but benefits. Less mess coming out the exhaust, and less carbon to scrape off pistons and exhaust ports ... oh, and damned near ZERO wear under some very harsh conditions.

Everyone else can do what they feel is right. UNDISPUTED FACT: anything that is not fuel, displaces fuel. AIR displaces fuel. OIL displaces fuel. Moisture / humidity displaces fuel. If this were not true, then fuel screw tweaks would never be needed when ANY of these change.

Flame away!

View attachment 1103042
Um, is that a whiskey bottle spout, someone left in the cylinder while porting?
 
bwalker
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I get a headache thinking about this ****. I've run Amsoil Saber at 100:1 in customer's and my own saws, trimmers, blowers, and my paramotor for many, many years without ANY oil-related failures. I've seen nothing but benefits. Less mess coming out the exhaust, and less carbon to scrape off pistons and exhaust ports ... oh, and damned near ZERO wear under some very harsh conditions.

Everyone else can do what they feel is right. UNDISPUTED FACT: anything that is not fuel, displaces fuel. AIR displaces fuel. OIL displaces fuel. Moisture / humidity displaces fuel. If this were not true, then fuel screw tweaks would never be needed when ANY of these change.

Flame away!

View attachment 1103042
You don't suppose you can turn a screw to add more fuel?
As far as carbon and exhaust gunk. Any engine can be made to run clean, even at something like 20:1 if the load and tuning are there.
In regards to your comment about zero wear. How do you know this and how many hours are on your equipment?
 
jellyroll

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You don't suppose you can turn a screw to add more fuel?
As far as carbon and exhaust gunk. Any engine can be made to run clean, even at something like 20:1 if the load and tuning are there.
In regards to your comment about zero wear. How do you know this and how many hours are on your equipment?
I have seen some scuffing on the piston skirts in equipment with high hours using 70 to 100:1 mix ratios
 
Doskiez

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I have seen some scuffing on the piston skirts in equipment with high hours using 70 to 100:1 mix ratios
Just to throw in my .02, I just pulled my Stihl 038 magnum apart, one of the crank bearings failed, and the cylinder and piston look perfect. Saw is ported, higher compression, higher RPM more timing, etc. I run 40:1 VP 2 stroke oil and AV gas. No appreciable carbon buildup on the piston, muffler, etc after 500 or so hours
 
jellyroll

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Just to throw in my .02, I just pulled my Stihl 038 magnum apart, one of the crank bearings failed, and the cylinder and piston look perfect. Saw is ported, higher compression, higher RPM more timing, etc. I run 40:1 VP 2 stroke oil and AV gas. No appreciable carbon buildup on the piston, muffler, etc after 500 or so hours
My efco trimmer came apart on me it was high hours 700+ pto side bearing lunched itself. The needle bearings got wadded up into the cylinder and piston pretty much destroyed the unit. I ran 87 E0 and 32:1 super tech in it since new.
 
Husky77

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Picked up some husqvarna oil guard at the dealer Each bottle is 100 ml not sure where he got it. I heard it is very good stuff though.
how much gas to 100 ml for 40:1
Does it say on the bottle "add to 5 litres of petrol" as husqvarna manuals will tell you to run at 50:1
I can only speak as I have found and that's here in the uk almost everyone using a saw professionally is 50:1 and over the pond in usa they tend to go 40:1
If I have this wrong please tell me, my saws are very happy at 50:1 and the saws I have worked on for others with ruined pistons & cylinders have run on 32:1. But probably if they are using crap oil at this ratio it is highly likely the chain is very blunt and they just keep pushing it. Education is a wonderful thing 🤔
 
North by Northwest

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Does it say on the bottle "add to 5 litres of petrol" as husqvarna manuals will tell you to run at 50:1
I can only speak as I have found and that's here in the uk almost everyone using a saw professionally is 50:1 and over the pond in usa they tend to go 40:1
If I have this wrong please tell me, my saws are very happy at 50:1 and the saws I have worked on for others with ruined pistons & cylinders have run on 32:1. But probably if they are using crap oil at this ratio it is highly likely the chain is very blunt and they just keep pushing it. Education is a wonderful thing 🤔
100 ml of oil will require 4 litres or just over 1 us gallon (3.78 l.) of fuel for 40:1 Jake . Saw cylinder mettalurgy & oil technology govern the oil ratio changes over the last 20 yrs in my opinion . Before Nikisil cylinders a lot of galling & scoring was occurring requiring heavier viscosity oils & mix ratio's . 32:1 prior to 2003 was the norm . Around 2010 with better oil & saw cylinder construction 40:1 became more prevalent . Today most saw manufacturers recommend 50:1 along with epa . restrictions . I find this a little to little other than with recreational saw usage & a fat tune . I would never recommend 50:1 within any commercial saw application , even with Saber or Red Armor etc .
 
Lil'Skeet

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Ok guys, I'm going to finally try to put this to rest. I sent this to project farm.
If anyone can think of anything else to add, let's hear it and I'll add it.

"@ProjectFarm
Would you be able to do a 2 cycle oil test? An arborist forum I belong to has a never ending thread that questions the difference in wear, power output, carbon build up, and difference in engine temperature between using different ratios. Example 25:1 vs 50:1 vs 100:1
The only way anyone would find it legitimate would be to do the necessary carburetor adjustments between the different ratios. I know you can finally put the debate to rest.
Love your videos!"
 
bwalker
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Ok guys, I'm going to finally try to put this to rest. I sent this to project farm.
If anyone can think of anything else to add, let's hear it and I'll add it.

"@ProjectFarm
Would you be able to do a 2 cycle oil test? An arborist forum I belong to has a never ending thread that questions the difference in wear, power output, carbon build up, and difference in engine temperature between using different ratios. Example 25:1 vs 50:1 vs 100:1
The only way anyone would find it legitimate would be to do the necessary carburetor adjustments between the different ratios. I know you can finally put the debate to rest.
Love your videos!"
That guy is a complete joke and his tests suck.
To do a statistically valid test would require dozens if saws for starters.
 
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