028AV Super

[FullCry]

Good shops, Bad shops

Amen to some small engine/dealer shops ripping people off. I bought an s-10 pickup truck load of saws and parts saws that came from a saw dealer/lawn mower equipment etc Co.I gave a guy ten dollars for the load....he had gotten the saws from the company. They had stripped a bunch of the saws to use parts on other customers and had probably gotten them via need a new saw sir.
Out of the load I got a Stihl 025 minus the bar and chain and I cleaned the carb and it runs like new. Maybe the mechanics didn't know what the heck was going on but they were a orange saw dealer. I got an Echo 650 and cleaned the carb and it runs good. I got a 55 Rancher even got the bar and chain with it then cleaned the carb and wala....they had robbed some from it but I had several parts saws so I was able to combine them. There was a Mc. Timber Bear in the pile not missing anything...carb clean, fuel filter and that was it and it runs like a big dog. My wife works for a company that needed a new weedeater and self propelled lawn mower. The weedeater was a Kawasaki and only several years old...commercial grade. They said it was not worth repairing and gave them a 75 dollar trade in on a new one. I'll bet the carb was stopped up but the wife didn't know about all of this until it was over with. We must be careful who we deal with. Your a smart guy for coming on here and asking about your saw. When ever I need to buy something that I don't really know anything about I find someone that does know about it and research on the internet like you have. I have a 82 model 028 Super and have only put fuel an oil in it since I had it. It needs a new sprocket, bar, and chain, but it still works. Take care all, FullCry

 

[angelo c]

let them do it. Everything else you can do. If you don't have a service manual PM me I will forward.

While we are on it, how does the plastic spur gear come off? I am trying to get to the oiler on my 028 and can't seem to pry it off. the manual says to "screw" it off. there isn't anything to unscrew?

 

[zeke573]

let them do it. Everything else you can do. If you don't have a service manual PM me I will forward.

While we are on it, how does the plastic spur gear come off? I am trying to get to the oiler on my 028 and can't seem to pry it off. the manual says to "screw" it off. there isn't anything to unscrew?

Just turn the gear clockwise while lifting and it will screw right out. The plastic gear is attached to the metal worm gear. Sounds like you are trying to remove just the plastic gear from the metal worm gear. It's all one piece. I had the same problem with mine. Would up prying it off and messing it up.

 

[zeke573]

I am thinking more and more about working on it myself.
I was just wondering, would it be good insurance for a 20 year old saw to just have them put new seals in it???? The other parts replacement I know I can do myself.

If you want to do it yourself,you certainly can do it if you have the ambition. I don't think there is anything wrong with your seals,based on what you said. Learn how to do a pressure or vaccuum test to check the crankcase for air leaks if you want to remove all doubt. All you have to do is block off the exhaust and intake and apply about 6 PSI through the spark plug hole. How you apply the pressure or vacuum is up to you. The air will fill the crankcase and either hold steady or leak. It should hold steady for a few minutes if it's OK. The 028 is real easy to test,IMO. There are other ways to test but,you get the central idea. I take a compressor and set the output at about 6-7 PSI and connect to the plug hole. Since it is a constant supply of air,a leak is easy to find. Good luck.

 

[Brushwacker]

I am thinking more and more about working on it myself.
I was just wondering, would it be good insurance for a 20 year old saw to just have them put new seals in it???? The other parts replacement I know I can do myself.

If it revs up and down normally, winds out and idles smooth, I wouldn't. I wouldn't bury any more $ in it then it needs. It can be done later if it comes to where it needs it.
If I were you I'd consider a 2nd saw for backup. If your saw should go down when you need it most its best to have another. Something that wears the same bars in good usable condition can be found in the $200 price range , give or take some.

 

[zeke573]

If it revs up and down normally, winds out and idles smooth, I wouldn't. I wouldn't bury any more $ in it then it needs. It can be done later if it comes to where it needs it.
If I were you I'd consider a 2nd saw for backup. If your saw should go down when you need it most its best to have another. Something that wears the same bars in good usable condition can be found in the $200 price range , give or take some.

Good advise.It never hurts to have a backup.

 

[pjm519]

OK, after all the advise given me here, I went back to my saw shop this morning. They rave that they are Stihl Certified Technicians. I had work done one time before by another dealer who was not Stihl Certified, I was unhappy with the service I did get that time, for what it's worth.

Anyway, as mentioned previously on here I asked to see the pressure test on my saw to confirm bad seals. They already had the muffler and carb off so it was easy for them to setup again. They applied 6psi, same as was mentioed here. I could not only hear a faint sound, but could see bubbles coming from one seal. That alone makes me tryst the shop.

After that I said you are charging me full list price for the parts, can you discount them for me. The guy did not hesitate. He gave me a 10% discount on parts across the board.

I asked how much time do you have in the saw for your inspection and testing, then I said well how much more time to reassemble with the new parts. He looked at me as I said that does not justify the amount you are charging me for lablor, he reduced the labor charge by one third.

We both looked in the muffler port with a light, and again he said the inside of the engine looks like new. No scars or scratches at all.

Long story short my bill went from $308 down to $172.
I can live witht that I told him. He will have my saw ready today.

In some ways I feel like I'm getting a new 028AV Super for $172.

So I now feel my shop is honest, and I am far more comfortable with a shop that has Stihl Certified Techs than one that does not. Not saying other techs don't know what they are doing. It's just peace of mind for me.

What saw would you recommend to me as a good backup saw??????????????

Thank you again to everyone on here.

 

[THALL10326]

I am a newby to this sight. I have read a lot on here and decided to subscribe to it. I know a lot has been said about the 028 on here. I have a different question about it

I bought my 028AV Super in 1991 brand new. It cost me $360.00 back then. In 2000 I had to replace the oiler gear when the bar was no longer getting oil to it. Here it is 2009 and the oiler has stopped working again. I took it to my Stihl dealer. Beside the bar not getting oil, the saw needs seals due to them leaking, a new sprocket, a bearing, the bar is damaged beyond repair, and a few other things. He said the engine is in emaculant condition though. He said to restore the saw to near new condition would cost me $308.00

My question is do I repair it, or look into a new saw at this point. I was thinking of either the MS280 or the MS361. I know one is listed as Midrange, the other as professional.

I heat my house with wood. I no longer cut wood for any other reason. I cut about six cords per year for myself.

What advice can any of you give me as far as fixing the 028 vs buying a new saw.

Thank you so much!!

308.00, dayummmm. Crank seals are around $13.00 apiece. The oil gears would cost around $26.00 for both. The sprocket would run around $20.00. New bar, 50.00 at most. New chain 25-30.00. Labor at most 45 minutes, hour at most, so he must be charging around 150.00 a hour for labor. Time to raise my rates baby,LOL

He's overcharging you by quite alot..

Opps I see your last post, glad you got him down on the price...

 

[outdoorlivin247]

OK, after all the advise given me here, I went back to my saw shop this morning. They rave that they are Stihl Certified Technicians. I had work done one time before by another dealer who was not Stihl Certified, I was unhappy with the service I did get that time, for what it's worth.

Anyway, as mentioned previously on here I asked to see the pressure test on my saw to confirm bad seals. They already had the muffler and carb off so it was easy for them to setup again. They applied 6psi, same as was mentioed here. I could not only hear a faint sound, but could see bubbles coming from one seal. That alone makes me tryst the shop.

After that I said you are charging me full list price for the parts, can you discount them for me. The guy did not hesitate. He gave me a 10% discount on parts across the board.

I asked how much time do you have in the saw for your inspection and testing, then I said well how much more time to reassemble with the new parts. He looked at me as I said that does not justify the amount you are charging me for lablor, he reduced the labor charge by one third.

We both looked in the muffler port with a light, and again he said the inside of the engine looks like new. No scars or scratches at all.

Long story short my bill went from $308 down to $172.
I can live witht that I told him. He will have my saw ready today.

In some ways I feel like I'm getting a new 028AV Super for $172.

So I now feel my shop is honest, and I am far more comfortable with a shop that has Stihl Certified Techs than one that does not. Not saying other techs don't know what they are doing. It's just peace of mind for me.

What saw would you recommend to me as a good backup saw??????????????

Thank you again to everyone on here.

Way to go!!!Glad to here you talked to them and they were more than happy to go over the saw w/ you present...Sounds like you have found a good shop and dealer that is willing to work w/ you...

 

[JJuday]

that was an awesome post, you took a few moments and you helped this stranger out. If he fixes it himself, he will have a lot more satisfaction and confidence in the operation of his saw
:yourock:

+1!

 

[fredmc]

Sell it and buy a Dolmar or Husky

 

[blsnelling]

172/30

So I now feel my shop is honest, and I am far more comfortable with a shop that has Stihl Certified Techs than one that does not. Not saying other techs don't know what they are doing. It's just peace of mind for me.

You trust him, yet he was trying to charge you 79% more than he should have? Are you going to trust the next labor charge he charges you?

 

[wigglesworth]

OK, after all the advise given me here, I went back to my saw shop this morning. They rave that they are Stihl Certified Technicians. I had work done one time before by another dealer who was not Stihl Certified, I was unhappy with the service I did get that time, for what it's worth.

Anyway, as mentioned previously on here I asked to see the pressure test on my saw to confirm bad seals. They already had the muffler and carb off so it was easy for them to setup again. They applied 6psi, same as was mentioed here. I could not only hear a faint sound, but could see bubbles coming from one seal. That alone makes me tryst the shop.

After that I said you are charging me full list price for the parts, can you discount them for me. The guy did not hesitate. He gave me a 10% discount on parts across the board.

I asked how much time do you have in the saw for your inspection and testing, then I said well how much more time to reassemble with the new parts. He looked at me as I said that does not justify the amount you are charging me for lablor, he reduced the labor charge by one third.

We both looked in the muffler port with a light, and again he said the inside of the engine looks like new. No scars or scratches at all.

Long story short my bill went from $308 down to $172.
I can live witht that I told him. He will have my saw ready today.

In some ways I feel like I'm getting a new 028AV Super for $172.

So I now feel my shop is honest, and I am far more comfortable with a shop that has Stihl Certified Techs than one that does not. Not saying other techs don't know what they are doing. It's just peace of mind for me.

What saw would you recommend to me as a good backup saw??????????????

Thank you again to everyone on here.

You called him on his seals, and he did the test again??? Im really shocked. Most I know would had told you to hit the road, or at bare minimum, took offense. Then you told him his parts were too high and he dropped the price. Then you told him his labor was too high, and he once again dropped the price........Just how big a boy are you??? What did you do, threaten to whoop him???

 

[angelo c]

You called him on his seals, and he did the test again??? Im really shocked. Most I know would had told you to hit the road, or at bare minimum, took offense. Then you told him his parts were too high and he dropped the price. Then you told him his labor was too high, and he once again dropped the price........Just how big a boy are you??? What did you do, threaten to whoop him???

Maybe he has a few "friends" with names like "angelo".:hmm3grin2orange:

Angelo

 

[nmurph]

172/30

You trust him, yet he was trying to charge you 79% more than he should have? Are you going to trust the next labor charge he charges you?

i was going to ask the same question.

 

[Justsaws]

Sounds like the dealer needs more work than he can get. I hope you have that estimate on your half of the drop slip.

Dealer is a salesman. First estimate was to sell you a saw. Second estimate was covering his a$$ and a solid effort to get any money at all. Now you know the game, hammer on him whenever you feel it necessary. No shame in treating him as he treated you.

 

[jockeydeuce]

Get a vac test done in front of me??? What is it connected to, and what is it checking the performance of. I have used vac gauges to syncronize motorcycle carbs, but never used one on a chainsaw.

OK...IMHO, if you know how to syncronize MC carbs, you belong here on AS and with some help from everybody here, can do all this work yourself.

It would still be worth getting a shop to Vac/pressure test the crankcase, and if they won't do it in front of you, find another shop.

Saws are as much fun to work on as motorcycles.

 

[nmurph]

OK...IMHO, if you know how to syncronize MC carbs, you belong here on AS and with some help from everybody here, can do all this work yourself.

It would still be worth getting a shop to Vac/pressure test the crankcase, and if they won't do it in front of you, find another shop.

Saws are as much fun to work on as motorcycles.

you need to read the whole thread, its not a six-pager.

 

[welder15725]

Welcome to the site pjm519. Are we going to see a video of it running soon??

 

[jockeydeuce]

you need to read the whole thread, its not a six-pager.

My bad!!....:blush:

Gotta read past the first page.....LOL....oops!