.050 bar to .058?

[foche911]

Any DIY way to modify .050 bar to .058?
My Jonsered beginnings were all .058, and I have large supply chain,
acquired a varied lot of Total Superbars, some are .050.
Also, is there a quality bar fit small Husky pattern in .063?

 

[Franny K]

" Also, is there a quality bar fit small Husky pattern in .063? "

The Stihl bars for their 45cc and down can be made to work. 3005 Stihl code.

 

[thook]

you'd have to remove the sprocket tips to make that work, wouldn't ya? to modify, that is. and, your rails would be thinner. no expert, so not sure how much difference .oo8" would make in terms of strength

 

[jchipps]

Any DIY way to modify .050 bar to .058?
My Jonsered beginnings were all .058, and I have large supply chain,
acquired a varied lot of Total Superbars, some are .050.
Also, is there a quality bar fit small Husky pattern in .063?

Really???
Okay since you asked.

Take the .050 bar to a quality machine shop and pay them 100 bucks an hour to mill .004 thousands off each side of the inner groove.
You’ll now have one extremely expensive .058 bar.

Or just buy one .058 bar for 50 bucks to use with all those .058 chains you have.

 

[foche911]

Really???
Okay since you asked.

Take the .050 bar to a quality machine shop and pay them 100 bucks an hour to mill .004 thousands off each side of the inner groove.
You’ll now have one extremely expensive .058 bar.

Or just buy one .058 bar for 50 bucks to use with all those .058 chains you have.

yeh really..I just thought small possibility someone might have come up with a way...
Thanks for reply

 

[foche911]

" Also, is there a quality bar fit small Husky pattern in .063? "

The Stihl bars for their 45cc and down can be made to work. 3005 Stihl code.

Thank You I will look into that.

 

[Philbert]

Any DIY way to modify .050 bar to .058?

Sarcastic answer would be to run .050 chain until the grooves are worn out, then use them with .058 chain.

Used to be a standard thing for full service saw shops to re-groove bars, but today this is hard to find. @srcarr52 built something to do this, but he is a pretty talented machinist.

Best thing might be to post the .050 bars on the Trading Post and look to sell or swap them for .058 bars, if you want to stick with the chains you have.

Philbert

 

[Franny K]

It is a matter of lengthening the slot for the bar studs and creating new adjuster and oil hole. Stay 3/8 inch away from a spot weld. Stihl bar rails are induction hardened I doubt milling the drive link slot is sensible. I just threw it out as I have done it for Picco. The loop length is quite a bit smaller for called length in those Stihl bars. Cannon might put the combination mount on something like that, Others as well never had need to do it.

 

[jchipps]

well, he did say dyi. fellas modify stuff all the time around here, so doesn't hurt to ask. still probably not a good idea for rail durability

Yes you’re absolutely right, and on giving it further thought, I do agree.

The only way to find any answer, regardless of how strange the question may sound, is to ask the question.

Believe me, I’ve asked lots of hair brained questions in my life time.
My apologies to Foche911. I wish you luck in finding an answer.
Carry on.

 

[Philbert]

(??? Looks like some posts deleted??? Continuity problem here.)

The rails on most bars are induction hardened, so milling the slot wider usually requires a grinder with a thin wheel. Some guys have tried to do this on a table saw, in older A.S. posts, but my earlier recommendations stand.

Philbert

 

[thook]

yeah, i deleted my post. wasn't anything important. conjecture type stuff trying to be helpful, but in light of yours and others posts, i was off

edit: ah ha....looks like it got quoted, anyway. man, this website's been slow to load for the past few days, so it kinda makes it hard to determine what's even making it through when trying to post

 

[heimannm]

 

[thook]

so, that's how it's done!

and, widening the groove wouldn't weaken the rails significantly?

 

[heimannm]

.050, .058, and .063 bars are all the same width/thickness, the only difference is the width of the groove.

 

[CR888]

Posted above is the correct way to do it, although most folks don't have the privilege to have a Barshop™ in their workshop (damn wish I did though!). But I've run half used .063 chains that have slightly worn tangs in .058 bars. 058-063 is a smaller gap than 050-058 but if you run enough chains through an 050 bar it will accept 058. But I suggest if you can't find a friend with a bar shop to just buy or trade for the correct sizes you need. Bars are relatively cheap, shipping & machine work adds up fast to surpass the cost of what you need off the shelf.

 

[CR888]

Posted above is the correct way to do it, although most folks don't have the privilege to have a Barshop™ in their workshop (damn wish I did though!). But I've run half used .063 chains that have slightly worn tangs in .058 bars. 058-063 is a smaller gap than 050-058 but if you run enough chains through an 050 bar it will accept 058. But I suggest if you can't find a friend with a bar shop to just buy or trade for the correct sizes you need. Bars are relatively cheap, shipping & machine work adds up fast to surpass the cost of what you need off the shelf.

 

[Franny K]

.050, .058, and .063 bars are all the same width/thickness, the only difference is the width of the groove.

For a solid bar that seems to be the case for a laminated bar the center lamina would vary.

 

[InfiniteJest]

One of the fallers I work with used to collect other guys worn out 50 gauge bars and hammer a bar wrench down the rails so he could run his 63 gauge on them.

It worked, but not well.
Stepping over dollars to pick up dimes.

 

[homemade]

I’m interested in the table saw method. Seams like a ok way to do it if all safety’s are satisfied. Heck, a barshop is compleatly freehand. With a tablesaw. You can use a fence, and finger blocks and so on.

 

[Wood Doctor]

One of the fallers I work with used to collect other guys' worn out 50 gauge bars and hammer a bar wrench down the rails so he could run his 63 gauge on them.

It worked, but not well. Stepping over dollars to pick up dimes.

I have to agree, because the jump from o50 to 063 is too big. On the other hand, a worn 050 bar with a couple of dozen hours on it will usallly accept an 058 chain and do so without hammering a bar wrench down the rails. The same is true for a worn 058 bar that will eventually accept 063 chain. But, many sawyers have run 050 chain in an 058 bar, and it hardly ever wears. The 050 chain just swims along inside the o58 bar groove.