.050 vs .063

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Its the guage of the chain. It measures How wide the link that rides in the bar and across the sprocket is.
 
Sprocket is a certain pitch, like .325 or 3/8, and the bar groove is a certain gauge, like .050, .058, or .063. Most Ebay bars and chains are .050, while my stuff is mostly .063

YOur chain loop must have a) the right number of drive links, b) the same pitch as the drive sprocket and bar tip, and c) the same gauge as teh bar groove. After a while it makes sense. I wish they were all .063, though.
 
so does that also translate to the top of the cutters? .063 would have a wider top? any pros or cons as far as cutting either way?
 
cutters are the same for 3/8 chain... .63 or .50 gauge
where difference is ... bar are only available in .50 up to 32in.
longer bars are .63 ...

most smaller bars go .50 for 3/8... if you are planning on needing longer bar too. better choice is .63.

longer hard nose .63 bars can use either .404 or 3/8 with proper rim sprocket

better to standardize on one size if possible.

so does that also translate to the top of the cutters? .063 would have a wider top? any pros or cons as far as cutting either way?
 
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Around here with 3/8 pitch chain 050 is the most common and esiest to get. 063 is slightly less common, 058 much less so. I think 058 is more common in Canada but that is just a guess. 404 is almost always 063, sometimes 058 and rarely 050.

Most bars with a replaceable nose can be changes from 3/8 to 404 and vice versa. The gauge of course stays the same and bar noses and sprockets are 063 gauge.

I wish I could have my 058 bars milled to 063.

Most chains cut a standard width kerf. Some cut a narrow kerf and others a wide kerf. I use a wide kerf chain (72CJX/75CJX) and several saws.
 
that's totally possible to do, but not with a mill.

as your bar wears, slot naturally widens. so depending on how much wear your bar has, it may need less adjusting.

to adjust slot, you will need Silvey bar closer, flat blade screw driver, hammer and a file

1. clamp bar in a vise.
2. test roller tip with new .63 gauge chain for fit
3. then draw .63 chain through rest of bar to find where tight spots will be.
4. then draw flat bade screw driver along entire slot to slightly widen. the area near mounting holes will be the tightest and may need a bit more work.
5. use Silvey closer to adjust width of slot to fit .63 gauge chain
6. draw file edge of bar square

that's it... basically the same procedure as bar maintenance, except of extra step to widen slot.


I wish I could have my 058 bars milled to 063.
 
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biggenius29

I like .063 gauge on replaceable sprocket nose bars because that is the gauge chain the sprocket and rim was made for. Check out HolmenTree he answered this in depth. In one or two posts.
 
I like .063 gauge on replaceable sprocket nose bars because that is the gauge chain the sprocket and rim was made for. Check out HolmenTree he answered this in depth. In one or two posts.

I tend to agree on the logic, but .058 works pretty well.
 
bar guage

I think bar gauge is like trailer hitch balls, nobody has ever been able to give me a viable reason for 1 7/8 and 2 inch balls. how much deference can 1/8 of an inch make or conversely 5 or 8 thousands of an inch on a chain saw bar
 
On my 024 I currently have .063 x .325 and I am going to try out a .050 bar and chain. I am having a problem with the nose sprocket getting bound up with the stringy fibers from the bark of blue gum eucalyptus and I have to take the chain off after 15-20 cuts and unbind the nose sprocket. None of the other saws I have used have had this problem and they are all .050 gauge. I think the wider channel is allowing more fibers to be delivered to the tip. If i cut away from the dogs it reduces the frequency of the cleanings, but I need every bit of the 16" bar on many of the cuts. I am using a Stihl Rollomatic E bar and I will be trying a Bailey's Arbor Pro today.
 
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